Oil Pan Gasket

[Large Arbor]

Any recommendations for a 427 Oil pan gasket? Mine has a few places its leaking and its time for a change? Also, any of you folks use gasket sealant with them? I was thinking a small amount of TA-31 on both sides of the gasket and waiting 24 hours after setting.

Phil

[RockBit]

I replaced my oil pan gasket a few months ago due to leaks and it is now leak free. I used a Felpro rubber/cork gasket and Dow Corning 732 sealant. Here is what I did:

1. Removed the oil pan and cleaned the surfaces with a razor blade and then laquer thinner.

2. Smeared sealant on the block side of the gasket. The smear was thicker than paint but not so thick that sealant would ooze out.

3. Stuck the gasket to the block and installed the oil pan, bolting it up a little past hand tight. The purpose of this was to stick the gasket to the block.

4. After sitting overnight, I dropped the pan. With an xacto knife, I carefully trimmed the gasket flush where it was hanging over the ream main drainback and bolt recesses. I didn’t want oil sitting on top of the gasket.

5. I smeared sealant on the top surface of the oil pan and reinstalled the pan, tightening the bolts. I let is sit overnight again to let the sealant cure.

6. After the first and second drives, I snugged the bolts again. I have an aluminum block.

It has not leaked since (knock on wood). Good luck!

[Large Arbor]

Thanks Chris, that's the advice I was looking for. I have a an aluminum block as well and will try it the same way.

Phil

[Trubble]

Chris,
Thanks for your post. Not an aluminum block in my EM, but I think I will go with your process when I pull the pan.

Need to add a dipstick on my 460 BBF - but that's a story for another day.

[RockBit]

A couple of things I should have mentioned. When the oil pan is off and clean, check that it is straight and not distorted around the holes from previous over tightening of the bolts. If is is not straight, use a pair of channel lock pliers and straighten it. Use a hammer to flatten around and holes if needed.

Once the pan is on and the sealant is cured, check the bolt tightness and snug up any that need it. The gasket will compress a little when clamped up.

[Large Arbor]

Ok, got the pan off and the windage tray. There was a gasket between the block and the windage tray and then another gasket between the pan and the windage tray. Given this, I assume I should use two gaskets when putting back on. Do you think the sequence remains the same?

Phil

[Large Arbor]

I loaded pics in my gallery but could not load here for some reason.

Phil

[RockBit]

My FE did not have a windage tray. I would use the same process, two gaskets, sticking both sides with adhesive. I would make sure to cut any gasket overhang at the drain back at the rear main.

What type of gaskets were there? Cork or other?

[DanEC]

Going on the basis of my 67 440 GTX with full perimeter secured oil pan windage tray - yes, a gasket above and a gasket below the windage tray.

[Large Arbor]

I am going to use Mahle gaskets (cork rubber composite) for both. Thanks gents for the advice.

Phil

[Large Arbor]

The rear main has three holes in it. Both the gasket and the windage tray cover them. Is this correct?

I posted pics in my gallery here.

Rear main holes - Club Cobra Photo Gallery

Phil

[RockBit]

Your configuration is different from mine. The depressed area with the three holes is the drainback. As oil is expelled from the aft side of the rear main bearing, these holes allow it to drain back into the oil pan. You want them as unobstructed as possible.

I would put the first gasket on (between block and windage tray) and get it stuck to the block. Then I would cut out the portion of the gasket that is over the drain back area. I would then put it all back together, smearin adhesive on the gasket surfaces.

On mine I also cut the part of the gasket that hangs over the rear main cap bolt recesses. This may not matter, but it can’t hurt anything.

Good luck.

[Large Arbor]

I am assuming I should also grind the windage tray back some to allow it flow past it as well. You agree?

Phil

[RockBit]

Phil - thats up to you. If it looks like it blocks the drain back I probably would. If so, I would also trim the second gasket back.

[RockBit]

Hey Phil, any news?

[Large Arbor]

Yes, I took the pan to a machine shop and had a notch cut out. It could have been a little more, but I cam going to give it a try. I am hoping it's enough to stop the oil from squirting out the back of the pan. I would upload pics but for some reason, I cannot. I will try to put them in my gallery..

Phil

[Large Arbor]

I added two pics in my gallery...

Phil

[patrickt]

[Danr55]

NOrmal torque for oil pan is 12 lbs/ft. I've found that with two gaskets and a windage tray sandwiched in between, it is advisable to add about 4 pound to that. I torque my oil pan/windage tray combination to 16 foot pounds and never had any issues with leaks.

[Large Arbor]

I also whacked on that curved part of the cutout to try to gain some additional clearance. I will use TA-31 and double cork gaskets with the windage tray to try to get it leak proof. I think that there are some minor differences in pan designs that have the cutout in its design. Shelby 7.5 quart pans for example do that. My goal is to put it all back together this weekend.

Thanks Patrick for placing the pics in the post. I am not sure why I cannot load pics.

If it still leaks after this repair, I will pull the pan off again in the fall of this year, enlarge it furtther and try again.

Thanks for all the helpful advice.

Phil