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Reports of valves fish scaling have been on the FE and Mustang forums
Get a child’s science kit microscope an look at your valve stems
I just used one to check the rings on this 390, they look beautiful reusing them
It’s a handy tool to have
The valve is off center because of the worn guide. Those marks look like where the plating or the case hardening has been worn off by the keepers. That should not happen. Counterfeit part? Hardening or plating prob?
A spring removal and valve inspection at 500, 1500, 3000, 5000 miles would be a good idea on the fresh motor. Pack nylon rope into TDC cylinder, couple hours
These motors were engineered with the valves lubed by lead in the fuel. USA fuel has friction modifiers in it to replace the lead somewhat, probably not allowed in EU fuel. Add Hapco lead substitute, a $50 gallon treats 200 gal gas
A Howard Cams 93360 11/32- .530 type seal with a band instead of spring would form a hydrodynamic seal allowing oiling where a spring seal will wipe off oil and stop oiling
I’m using the no band 3/8” - .530” 93320 Howard Ultimate seal, the 11/32” 93311 has .500 guide, these seals oil the valves too.
This didn't all happen just over night----It was maybe lack of compatible lubricants/fuel issues?????? To be so bad pretty much on all cylinders---wrong choice of oil to go with fuels from that area???????excellant choice of seals restricted amount of lube to valve guides which then wore enough to kill the seals which then let in huge amounts of oil sucked thru the intake guides???????
That cam is 248/248 @ .050", with a .638" gross valve lift. You will lose .015-.020" lift to valvetrain deflection, so at 100% optimal, you're at .638" lift. In actuality, you were probably getting about .615" lift at the valve.
Hard to tell anything from a side video, but it looks like the rocker starts on the intake side of the valve stem and rolls through. If you're opening the valve more than .600-.650", then you're going to get an exaggerated view.
I don't know what you'll see now as far as geometry with a valve/valve guide worn that bad, but the T&D rockers notoriously set up perfectly on an Edelbrock head with a standard length FE valve. In your video, I can see the valve moving back and forth in the guide. That will skew the results of a geometry check. If you have .030-.040" of wear, that would mean that the valve can move side to side in the guide by at least .015", which can affect the geometry quite a bit.
I would be looking at the amount of wear that you see on the stem. If there's more wear there than .600" lift worth, then that narrows the issue down to a surface finish/plating issue.
A bit hard to tell until you get the valve guides replaced, and the valves reseated.
The roller should start on the side CLOSEST to the rocker shaft, sweep over centre, then be on the side OPPOSITE of the rocker shaft AT HALF VALVE LIFT, then sweep over centre near full lift. The pattern should be near centred over the valve stem, the narrower the better.
Your rocker does not have that pattern at all.
Put some engineers blue on the valve stem and watch the pattern the roller leaves.
Could it be possible the engine in question was running extremely rich for its entire life and that's what caused the accelerated wear? This is more of a question than a conclusion, although I think it's possible.
Could it be possible the engine in question was running extremely rich for its entire life and that's what caused the accelerated wear? This is more of a question than a conclusion, although I think it's possible.
Guide wear like the owner has, is not caused by excessively rich A/F ratio.
Even it somehow ran continuously at 6:1 (typical cold cranking fuel requirements).
That cam is 248/248 @ .050", with a .638" gross valve lift. You will lose .015-.020" lift to valvetrain deflection, so at 100% optimal, you're at .638" lift. In actuality, you were probably getting about .615" lift at the valve.
Hard to tell anything from a side video, but it looks like the rocker starts on the intake side of the valve stem and rolls through. If you're opening the valve more than .600-.650", then you're going to get an exaggerated view.
I don't know what you'll see now as far as geometry with a valve/valve guide worn that bad, but the T&D rockers notoriously set up perfectly on an Edelbrock head with a standard length FE valve. In your video, I can see the valve moving back and forth in the guide. That will skew the results of a geometry check. If you have .030-.040" of wear, that would mean that the valve can move side to side in the guide by at least .015", which can affect the geometry quite a bit.
I would be looking at the amount of wear that you see on the stem. If there's more wear there than .600" lift worth, then that narrows the issue down to a surface finish/plating issue.
OK Brent so first of all I'm going to replace the guides and once done check the rockers/pivots.
Problem: Craftperformanceengines doesn't reply to my emails !!!! How can I order the new guides ???
A bit hard to tell until you get the valve guides replaced, and the valves reseated.
The roller should start on the side CLOSEST to the rocker shaft, sweep over centre, then be on the side OPPOSITE of the rocker shaft AT HALF VALVE LIFT, then sweep over centre near full lift. The pattern should be near centred over the valve stem, the narrower the better.
Your rocker does not have that pattern at all.
Put some engineers blue on the valve stem and watch the pattern the roller leaves.
Gary, as Brent said my guides are too worn to check rockers travel/pivot so I'm going to replace guides and check once done.
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