Gasket question

[Cobrabill]

All of you guys running FE's w/aluminum heads,who's head & intake gaskets are you using?

[Jeff Frigo]

Fel-Pro

[Clois Harlan]

Like Jeff said:

FEL_PRO

[SFfiredog]

To be more specific, use the Fel-pro #1020 head gaskets and the #1247 intake gaskets.
HTH,
Mike

[Cobrabill]

Thanks y'all!

[GEORGE ANDERSON]

I agree with the Felpro 1020 Head gasket but no longer use the 1246 or 1247 Felpro because they are race gaskets and not inteneded for long life....the Victor Nitro-Seal 95159SG or 95158SG are far better for street and Performance machines....I don't care what Edelbrock Says on their instructions...
The Kid....george

[Cobrabill]

Has anyone seen the 1247's pull apart at the bottom of the gasket(underneath the port)?

[Steve Jones]

Yes, I have.

The resulting simptom was oil smoke out of one sidepipe. Oil was being sucked into the intake passage under vacuum and the burned in the combustion chamber. Thanks to George Anderson's help troubleshooting over the phone the problem was easy to find and fix. This happend a couple of years ago; followed his advice on gaskets and sealers and haven't had any problem since. George really knows these engines!!

If he told me that an FE engine must be assembled while standing on one's head and whistling Dixie and juggling bowling pins.........That's how I'd do it.


Steve

[Cobrabill]

Steve-when you saw the gasket problem,do you recall what intake was in use?

I have jusat discovered that the part of the gasket that is damaged(bottom) is 5 to 7 thou.thinner than the top.And this is uniform thru all ports.

[mr0077]

Guys, FWIW, and after a lot of phone chasing, I'm told that the Victor gaskets are available at CarQuest; the 95159SG ($33.61) is for the medium riser (e.g., Edelbrock alum.) heads and the 95158SG ($28.18) is for low riser heads...

[427 S/O]

Throw away those small intake gaskets that run between the heads and use hi-temp silicone, place the intake gaskets on the heads and set the intake on the engine very gently, look on both ends and this will give you an idea of the bead you need to run, lay the bead on a little thicker than the measurement, let it set over night, put the intake back on and torque it down. Also, I use a small amount (on my finger) to go around the water crossover. After installation you can use a razor blade to trim the excess silicone, very clean look and never a leak.

[Steve Jones]

Cobrabill,

I am using Edlebrock heads & Performer RPM manifold. I don't remember what my original gaskets (the ones that failed) were, but I replaced them with the Fel-Pro gaskets George was recommending at the time. I think the proper use of sealers and good torque (re-torque) sequence is as important as anything. MY manifold had never been re-torqued after the initial build and had been through many heat cycles. I think you need to check the torque on the manifold bolts every so often (once a year?).


I'd go with the new gaskets that George is now recommending and call him to find out what the best installation method is with these gaskets (use of sealer/type of sealer/no sealer/recommended re-torque practice/etc.)

Steve

[Jack Zupan]

On the subject of gaskets for FE engines, what are you guys using for exhaust gaskets. I'm thinking copper but they seem to be a bit hard to find.

Jack Z.

[Cobrabill]

Jack-i have been using Fel-pro.And that's what i'm using this time around.

Steve-problem found!My RPM was an early casting(1/16/97).Evidently,the machine shop took a bit too much off in an attempt to get the surfaces straight.Like about 50 thou too much.Already have the new RPM and there are no flatness issues with it.This explains all the problems i've had.