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Was reading about the Shelby 427 block and why it was made. It was stated that they had to have $1k-1.5k work performed on a NOS block by a machine shop. My question is, why do you need to send a NOS block to a machine shop? Pardon my ignorance, but I'm a DBA not an engine builder.
Just guessing, but a new "bare" block destined for some serious horse power output would need:
Line boring the main bearing holes for the crank AND the camshaft.
Check the deck height.
Stress relief, like sand blasting to smooth all surfaces.
Stress relief would also apply to con rods or more later in the build.
Check for hairline cracks (no, I don't trust the "factory").
Check the cylinder bore for accuracy.
Precision honeing of the block (using the torque plate method).
De bur and chamfer all oil holes.
Paint the INSIDE of the block to assure smooth oil return as it runs back to the pan.
And all this just to PREPARE for the engine build!
mass production flaws, oil passage chamfering and production flaw correction..
Regards,
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michael
A man that is young in years, may be old in hours, if he have lost no time. But that happeneth rarely. Generally, youth is like the first cogitations, not so wise as the second. For there is a youth in thoughts, as well as in ages... Sir Francis Bacon (1561-1626)
talked to mike at shelby today and it looks like that block is really a good buy considering what is avialable in the cast 427 blocks.
mike also stated to me that their blocks are ready to be placed on the engine stand and assembled as is, and they do just that at shelby.
he said conside that you may have to go through 2 or three blocks to get one that is able to be rebuilt (no cracks, hasn't been messed up by resleeving, ect) then the machine work. locally here it cost about $800 to line bore, hone, have the deck correct, mains correctly sized, and that dont enclude any hot tanking or x-rayed or magged
i looked at the genesis block and they are still untested but will be out soon $3500 for cast and $4500 for almunium
personally i will do my best to get a shelby block
As for the iron block deal, I think Shelby was buying anything he could and some of it was used, I think that is were the inflated machine shop cost came from.(correct me if I'm wrong)
As for his own aluminum block......All the bores in my block (CSX 124) had to be staightened....one bore was barrel shaped over .002. The pistons had to be ordered in a custom oversize of 4.253 just to make it work. Shelby stuff is nice but if you look at anything close enough you will find flaws.
If you by a CSX block, I would advise you not take there word as gospel and have a good machinist check it out for you.
Dale
I have block CSX168 and must say I agree with having a machinist check the block. I did and was very impressed that nothing was out of tolerence, infact my machinist was also surprised.
Being a ASE master machanic myself I can say we did check everything. Not all blocks are created equal, if you can have someone who has done a aluminum Block before do the work.
I have been very happy with mine so far. I really felt the difference when I lifted the complete engine up with my picker to install it.
How much cheaper is it to do the engine build yourself vs a crate engine? Though I have never done this before, I'm a pretty bright guy and there are alot of resources available (including this site) to help me. I would like to do it myself to save money (hopefully enough to make a 427 eengine that doesn't cost 25K like the Shelby). Also I would like to become that "intimate" with my engine. THat is the part of the Cobra that will require maintenance and tweeking after the car is complete. Am I way off base thinking I can tackle a job like this and that it will save me enough money to be worth it?
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"There are 10 types of people out there....the ones that understand binary and the zeros that don't."
I can tell you that it is going to cost me about $5000 to have my motor put together--and this includes machining the heads, checking the block, etc. The parts are costing around $16k or so--and that's with the Shelby block, Edelbrock heads and a billet Velasco crank. Hey--if you've got the tools and equipment, and the experience, that's what you pocket for a high-end motor.
Trust me--when I told my engine builder to only use the best, he got a woody he could bore the motor with! The rods are in there along with the other stuff. Good thing I'm not painting the car--I could never afford the wax.
Hey--just wait til your club motor starts adding up!
WHEN I BUILT MY SIDE OILER, I THOUGHT I COULD DO IT FOR 10-12K. ENDED UP AT ABOUT 21-22K. USED YOUR PHILOSPHY, DO IT RIGHT. PROBLEM WAS SOME PARTS (NEW) REQUIRED ADDITIONAL WORK, MOST NOTABLY THE SHELBY HEADS AND ROLLER ROCKERS. AT THE SAME TIME A GOOD FRIEND BUILT THE SAME FLOORMAT BUT USED THE SHELBY AL BLOCK. IT WAS FAR FROM A "BOLT"ON.WHILE I STROKED MINE TO 454, HE KEPT HIS AT 427 FOR "VINTAGE". WE HAD THE SAME BUILDER. I GOT 650HP, HE GOT 625. AT SAAC 27 HIS CORRILLO (SP) ROD ACTUALLY BROKE. THAT REBUILD IS ALMOST DONE. AT 22K-25K FOR A TURN KEY SHELBY ENGINE, THATS ABOUT A WASH FROM SUBBING OUT. ANY PROBLEMS, THERE IS ONLY ONE PLACE TO POINT A FINGER.
So what I'm hearing you all say is that even if I order an assembled short block from Shelby or another builder, the work to complete it may still require machining the heads. The amount I save may be about $5K over a turnkey engine?
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"There are 10 types of people out there....the ones that understand binary and the zeros that don't."
NOS 427 Block question
Linear Mode
