Help me build a Shelby FE427

[need4spd]

I'm going to begin building/ordering parts for my aluminum 427 Shelby block tomorrow and would appreciate some feedback before I start putting in my orders. Just an FYI, this cars primary use will be daily-driver/show/and some strip use. I am somewhat undecided as too the manufacturers of a few of the items, hence the ?( )? and am open to any suggestions and/or other possibilities towards the others if you see a problem anywhere in my setup. Here is a current list of what we've already got in mind....

-Shelby 427FE block bored and stroked to a 490ci
-Billet Rods (Oliver)
-Heads Stg 3 (Edelbrock)
-Pistons (CP)
-Crank "cast" ?(Eagle or Scat)?
-Rocker Assembly "roller" (Erson)
-Intake "victor" (Edelbrock)
-Cam "custom" (Lunati)
-Distributor ?(MSD)?
-Wires (Taylor)
-Carb "850cf" (Devincy)
-Water-pump (Edelbrock)
-Bolt Kit (ARP)
-Clutch (McLeod)
-Aluminum Flywheel ?( )?
-Bell housing ?( )?
-Slave Cylinder ?( )?
-Starter ?( )?
and last but not least...
-Tremek 600 or 600rr

Thanks for all your help!

[SCOBRAC]

http://www.gessford.com/quotes/images/MattGordon427.htm

[trularin]

Don't take this wrong, but have you ever done this before?

[Clois Harlan]

I would re-think the Tremic and maybe consider a toploader. This weekend two of the small block guys I race with went through their Tremics at the track. I am not convinced the TKO/Tremic can take the torque a FE puts out.

I might consider a solid lifter Comp cam too however John Ross of this site has a 427 S.O. from Genesis and runs hydraulic lifters and cam.

You will also need to consider a hydraulic throw out bearing (bench bleed it before you install it).


Building an FE engine correctly takes some specific skills. If you are not familiar with some of the little tricks of the trade that are unique to the 427 S.O. engine you make get your engine to start up when you are finished bolting everything up but you may never get it to perform as it was designed. In fact you may ruin the engine. Nothing personal and forgive me for doubting your skills but these engines are very pricy and becoming extinct and I would hate to see you loose your investment as well as your dream.

Clois

Clois

[Cracker]

Clois - From what I can gather his is just a run-of-the-mill common Shelby aluminum block - not a side-oiler rather a center oiler.

Clois is right about the FE's new or old they require the little know-how tricks to do them right. You might be the king of builders but the feedback is just to assume your like most of us - not the king of builders! Why do you list both Oliver rods and Eagle rods? If it were me I'd spend the extra $300-400 bucks and go with the Oliver's.

I'd also rethink the Victor intake. I have an original port matched to Medium riser heads Shelby Sidewinder if interested. I can make this comparison based on switching from the Sidewinder to the Victor. If I hadn't spent so much on the Victor making it perfect for MY motor I'd switch it back in a heartbeat!

Best of luck! All FE's build's need a little.

[Turk]

I too can endorse the sidewinder.
I had a tunnel wedge (dubbed the poor man's tunnel port} on my other engine, and I like the sidewinder better. It could be the carburation that is responsible for the improved performance but, Sidewinder is a good intake and they can be had for a reasonable amount!

TURK

[need4spd]

trularin: I was a little vague in my first post so let me clarify. I personally am not building this engine (I've got a very competent engine builder to do that.) We're looking to build up a Superformance cobra and we really like the idea of a big block, hence the original question. I was just feeling out the crowd to see if anyone had any input that might be helpful with the parts list, namely quality of manufactures and what not. I'll be leaving the "particulars" up to the builder.

Clois Harlan: Again I appreciate your concern as to my "engine building abilities," as I mentioned previously, I personally am not building this motor, my goal is to learn as much as possible prior to reaching a point of no return as I will be ordering/choosing some of the parts for this engine. Thanks for the feedback on the Tremic, as this is precisely the reason I enquired this forums help!

Cracker: This is the block I'm referring to... http://www.carrollshelbyent.com/engi...inum_block.cfm
Regarding the rods, I must have been typing too fast and overlooked this mistake, we will infact be going with the Oliver's and I have adjusted my previous post accordingly. Also, I'll look into the Victor intake, I appreciate your help!

Turk: I'll definitely inquire on the Sidewinder!

Thanks for the feedback

[Anthony]

Cracker, the shelby aluminum block's oiling system is neither top (center) or side oiler, it's better than either.

The sidewinder is a great intake, at about $400-450 used. You can buy a brand new blue thunder single 4 dual plane for the same price, and it may develop a little more power. Unless you definitely want the original ford part, get the blue thunder new, or you can get an old edelbrock intake, called the F427, alot like the blue thunder for about $250 used at swap meets or on ebay at times.

[The Dreamer]

Is there a reason for buying billet rods with a cast crank? Shouldn't forged H-beam rods be enough insurance. I understand, billet crank really aren't needed, but give a level of protection.

On the Tremecs, were they the TKO 500 or 600s that let go?

[Jamo]

Are those Erson rockers stud or shaft mounted? Shaft mounted does provide a bit more security for the roller alignment. I have T&Ds and they provide the benefits of both types in that two rockers on there own shaft can be removed from the cradle at any time instead of the entire single shaft types. I am not a "wrench" by any means, but I appreciate the little things my builder did to make things easier for me to maintain.

I've got a Velasco billet crank...some builders can get a bit of a discount if they do business with Velasco alot.

[750hp]

Hi Jamo - is Henry Velasco still around? I dropped into his shop unannounced about 8 years ago, and he took four of us on a two hour tour through his facility, giving us so much information and answering enough questions to leave us all with brain overload. Nothing was too much trouble, and at the end of it we went to the counter to buy some of his shirts/hats etc. He wouldn't let us pay for the shirts, saying that our enthusiasm - and wearing his shirts in Australia - was good enough advertising for him.

Unbelievable !

Need4Spd - buy a Velasco crank !!!!!

[Jamo]

Craig

Heck...you're ahead of me. I've never met him. My builder (Joe Boghosian) has relied on him for years, and I know George "Jorge" Anderson deals with him quite a bit. I saw the crank before it went into my motor and it was so damn pretty I was thinking of mounting it for display.

[Allan A]

George put the Velasco cranks in our motors, order now because it takes 6-8 months to get them, unless you are from Fresno

[Jamo]

Mine only took 4 months.

[Cracker]

Hey Anthony, thank you! I always wondered why Mike LeFevers is no longer with Shelby Enterprises - HE DIDN'T KNOW WHAT KIND OF BLOCK HE CREATED! DARN FOOL! And here he was giving me a tour last year explaining how the oiling sytem worked and here I am hearing from you how it REALLY works - Who would've known?

I don't know the specifics but I think this probably didn't impress Carroll that much. He$$ ole' Shelby probably thinks Mike created a bottom oiler.

[need4spd]

What's the cost "ball park" for this billet Velasco crank? Does the cost v.s. benefit really warrant spending 2 or 3 times as much for a billet crank, specifically this Velasco piece?

[misfit41]

it's my understanding that the shelby block is the same design and theory as the side oiler,except the oil galleys are moved upwards so windowing the block on the drivers side dosen't mean throwing it away,as well as to make room for quad main bolts,someone correct me if I am wrong,,someone other than Cracker,,that is ,,Tim

[Jamo]

Velasco cranks go for about $2000-2500, or a bit less as I noted.

I think the additional $1k or so is worth it given the overall expense of the motor. I'm sure others will disagree.

[MidOHasp]

Originally posted by Jamo


Velasco cranks go for about $2000-2500, or a bit less as I noted.

I think the additional $1k or so is worth it given the overall expense of the motor. I'm sure others will disagree.

No way!!

I completely disagree!!!!

I think it's worth it because they are so pretty. If I were a rich man, I would have one in my car and one on my desk as a paperweight (for big papers).

They are a work of art and really, why skimp when building a 427 S/O?

BTW Jamo, my damned watch stopped. I took it off to do some work on the car and dropped it on my way in. Bugger just stopped. Probably would've faired just fine on my wrist working on the car. 4-6 weeks to get it back.

sorry for the hijack, everyone...

JP

[Jamo]

Do you mean you dropped the watch, or you dropped it off at the dealer?

Hey, sometimes it happens. Unless the dealer has a bunch of winders, you gotta figure they sit for awhile...worst thing for automatics.

Tell da wifey that's why you need to buy another high end watch...for backup.