428 Engine rebuild

[MetaJacko]

Hi Folks,

I posted a while ago about a snapped rocker bar and everyone was very helpful on how to solve the problem.

I got that all fixed and the car ran great!

But then I got some odd noises lower down and a mechanic I know thinks its a main bearing gone!

So, since I'm going to have to take the engine out I thought I'd do a propper re-build and replace the cam and rockers and valve gear while I'm at it!

George is helping me with the parts but I'm after some advice on the best cam style for me. I'm not a mechanic so please don't confuse me wit big complex terms

I'm basically after a good street engine that gives maybe about 400 - 450 hp and has useable revs up to about 6000

I don't want to have to re-build it again after only a few thousand miles.

George has suggested some roller rockers that he uses but I need to decide on a cam

Thanks

Paul

[Clois Harlan]

Paul,

I have been extremely pleased with my set up and it has been very durable and powerfull too.
Comp Cams 572 lift and 235 duration (solid)
Sig Erson Roller Rockers
Smith Push Rods
Comp Cam Solid Lifters and springs
TRW pistons 10 1/2 : 1 Comp
Edlebrock Alum Heads (w/ a little work)-Alum Med Riser Manifold
Speed Demon 750 Carb
MSD Ignition (Dist, 6AL Box. Coil, Wires etc)
A few other mods but basically modest upgrades
RPM Range shift light at 6300 and red line at 6500
Horsepower is between 430 and 500 at the rear wheels. Consistantly turns 11.70's at the drags and is very competetive on road courses. Engine has over 4000 race miles and 2500 street miles on it to date.

Spent the last two full race seasons with no problems other than a blown head gasket in Baton Rouge this past spring. Doesn't leak or use oil and still has very good power and is competetive.


Clois

[MetaJacko]

Hi Clois,

Thanks, thats helpful.

I've already got an ali med riser manifold with a Holly 750dp on it. I'm planing on keeping these since they seem to work fine.

My heads are iron and don't plan on changing them (don't know the comp ratio, is there a way of working that out?).
I do have MSD ign though

So basically 572 lift and 235 duration gives a good streetable range then? What is the tickover/idle at?

Before it all went wrong I think the engine gave about 400 at the fly wheel so that would be about 320 at the rear wheels.

430+ at the wheels is definately more than I need (but I'm sure I could find a use for it )

Paul

[Clois Harlan]

Mine idles at about 900 RPM and makes good power all the way thru my RPM range. I do have the 428 CJ Crank and an aluminium flywheel in front of my toploader.

This engine is the most dependable engine I have ever had. I credit that to a good machinist and good quality parts that were carefully assembled with close and exact tolerances. Most of all I believe my engine builder made the difference because of his experience and dilegence.

Clois

[MetaJacko]

Hi Clois,

Getting a good builder I guess is part of the trick!

Not many people in the UK know much about FEs.
I have confidance in the guy I'm using though, the engine definately ran better after the new rocker shafts were put in and the lash re-set.
The last time it was built (before I had the car) the lash was set way too tight! Makes you wonder what else they did wrong!

If in doubt, hit it with a big hammer!

Cheers

Paul