428 Engine build for my GT500

musclecargt500 · #1 (**permalink**) 02-14-2005, 12:21 PM

Hello, I have a 1968 Shelby GT 500. I am in the process of building the 428 for it. I have some goals in mind and would like to also ask a few questions. So far, I am starting with a C7ME std. bore block that will not require boring. The engine block is at my machine shop getting prepped for the assembly. I would like to make between 450-500 hp. I don't mind a lumpy idle and the car is a 4-speed with a 4.11 Detroit locker. I would like to run a hydraulic roller cam and would love to hear about some of your experiences with hydraulic roller cams in FE engines. I am planning on buying a set of Edelbrock Performer RPM heads bare and let my machine shop finish them. How large can I go on the valves with a standard 4.130" bore? I have ordered the pistons which are Ross customs based on the Cobra Jet pistons. They have 1/16, 1/16, and 3/16 grooves. I am running plasma moly file fit rings. I have a Police Interceptor aluminum intake, is it good enough or do I need to use a Performer RPM? I don't think my horsepower estimate is out of reach. I will have the engine align bored/honed. It was slightly out of tolerance and I do not want to take any chances. I am using stock rods with ARP bolts. I am using ARP main studs, melling oil pump, comp cams roller timing chain, clevite bearings, and the best parts I can afford. My main question is the roller cam. Does anything need to be done to the engine block to accomodate the roller cam? i.e. any oiling mods etc...? Sorry for the lengthy description, just trying to give as much detail as I can. Thanks, Todd

SCOBRAC · #2 (**permalink**) 02-14-2005, 12:32 PM

Look up hot rod magazines Jan 2003 article on building a 390. They got 450 hp at 9.7:1 and a single 750.

SCOBRAC · #3 (**permalink**) 02-14-2005, 12:36 PM

http://www.hotrod.com/webonly_january/

musclecargt500 · #4 (**permalink**) 02-14-2005, 04:33 PM

Thanks. That is a very insightful article. It does answer the question about running a roller cam. The following questions remain unanswered:

1. What is the largest diameter valves I can run in Edelbrock Performer RPM heads with a standard 4.130 bore?

2. Will a factory aluminum Police interceptor intake perform as well as a Performer RPM intake?

It seems that the Edelbrock heads need the oil return holes opened up a bit more. I am also going to open up the oil return holes in the lifter valley. They have quite a bit of flashing on them. Please give me any tips you can as this is the first time I have built a Ford FE engine. Thanks, Todd

rritchey · #5 (**permalink**) 02-14-2005, 09:51 PM

Todd,

There are lots of pitfalls that you could fall into on your first FE build. That Hot Rod article covered several of them. The oil return holes in the E-bock heads are only the first step to cure the valve cover flooding problem - you need to install restrictors in the heads as well. The easiest way to accomplish this is to contact Guessford machine and buy a set of their restictors - you just take them out of the box, drop them in place (in the oil passage comming up thru the head under the second rocker stand pad) and then install the rocker arm assembly. Without the restrictors you will be wasting valuable oil up there where it is not necessarily needed.

Next thing to look out for is oil leaks. FE's have a tricky rear main seal, tricky intake manifold, tricky timing chain cover and valve covers that can very easily spring leaks if you don't get them right. Don't use the cork strip gaskets that go under the intake at the front and back. Just apply a liberal bead of quality silicone. I noticed the article said they really did not need the head studs... and they are right... but with the aluminum heads you DO need to get bolts with washers (this is true of any engine with aluminum heads). You might as well go ahead and get ARP bolts because they have a reduced sized head on them (9/16") and if you use factory bolts, you CAN NOT get a socket on the bolt heads (trust me... when you start torquing the heads you will see what I mean).

Also pay close attention to the direction of the connecting rods as you istall them. You must have the piston in the bore correctly (with the arrow or notch pointing forward) AND the chamfer on the side of the rod must face the outside of the rod journal on the crank. The best way to get this right is to look for the oil hole in the top of the rod (in the piston pin bore) and be sure this hole faces the inside of the block as you insert the assembled piston/rod. Since you will probably be using Speed Pro pistons, they are installed using keepers rather than spiro-locks, so if you have to re-do one or two it's pretty easy.

If you are going to use the cam they used in that article, do not run the springs that come on the completed E-bock heads. They are not very good springs. If you stay around .575" or less on the lift, they should work fine.

Pick up the book called "how to rebuild big block ford engines" (or something like that) by Steve Christ. It is a great reference book and goes through the assembly procedures step by step. It will save you lots of trouble.

I hope your build turns out great - and have fun with it!

rritchey · #6 (**permalink**) 02-14-2005, 09:54 PM

Oh, yeah - you asked about valves and intakes...

on the valves, you can not go bigger than CJ valves (2.19 / 1.67) going from memory on those diameters so if they are wrong I'm sorry.

The factory PI manifold is a great piece. It will work just as good as a RPM will.

musclecargt500 · #7 (**permalink**) 02-16-2005, 09:56 PM

Thanks Randy for your response. I will be getting that book asap. I am planning to assemble the engine in March and drop it in the car no later than April. I will be driving it in the Hot Rod Magazine Power Tour in June. I'm very excited about that. Todd

Anthony · #8 (**permalink**) 02-17-2005, 08:26 AM

GT500,

I have a matching set of 4/68 dated 428 cj heads/intake, with little run time, taken off of a GT500KR that I am looking to sell, sometime in the future. The story I got was that the original owner (Ford Dealer) bought the car for his son. His son blew the motor shortly thereafter, and replaced the short block with a 427SO which I'm using now. The current owner wanted to put back in a 428CJ, but didn't care that he did not get the orignal heads/intake with the car. I bought the engine, and don't need the heads/intake now. I would think they would be right either for a '68GT500KR or a '68CJ stang.

You interested?

musclecargt500 · #9 (**permalink**) 02-17-2005, 02:15 PM

I appreciate the offer but my car rolled off the assembly line in February 1968 before those parts were even made. Mine is not a KR.

Carnut427 · #10 (**permalink**) 02-17-2005, 05:56 PM

The main oil passage from the pump to oil filter adapter should be opened up to 7/16", and the oil feed holes in the mains are partially covered by the main bearings...mark where the holes should be by putting a main bearing in place and mark the area on the main saddle, then open the oil feed hole with a die grinder. It's also a good idea to place the oil filter adapter mounting gasket on the engine and mark the openings from the gasket onto the block where the oil flows to and from the block. You'll notice the oil has to make a 90* bend out of the block and back into it; round these "corners" in both the block and oil filter adapter (much like porting heads) for more efficient flow. Also, be aware that the acid in your fingers can damage a bearing.
Good Luck,
Dan

Keithc8 · #11 (**permalink**) 02-19-2005, 09:32 PM

Just stay with the standard size CJ valves, 2.09/1.66 because this will not shroud the valves. With the PI intake, 10 to 1 compression and a nice hydraulic roller and if the heads are prepared correctly you should make 500 to 525 no problem. Let me know if I can help you with a camshaft design and lifters. You will also need special lenght pushrods with the hydraulic roller set up. we have all of this in stock. Thanks, Keith Craft

musclecargt500 · #12 (**permalink**) 02-21-2005, 09:46 PM

Thank you Keith Craft. I will be calling and pricing the Edelbrock heads prepared by you and also that roller cam. Since you aren't that far away I will probably come for a visit soon. When I call, should I ask for anyone in particular? Thanks, Todd

bud4660 · #13 (**permalink**) 02-22-2005, 02:31 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by musclecargt500

Thank you Keith Craft. I will be calling and pricing the Edelbrock heads prepared by you and also that roller cam. Since you aren't that far away I will probably come for a visit soon. When I call, should I ask for anyone in particular? Thanks, Todd

Hey Todd. If you didnt notice where Keith is, he is in Arkadelphia, AR. not the Plano store. You have to catch him when he's coming up here. I had him do my 428CJ heads with his stage 2 port work. Very Nice. Cant wait to get it all together and see how it runs.

musclecargt500 · #14 (**permalink**) 02-22-2005, 11:43 PM

Nah, I realized it. I plan on making a trip to Arkadelphia. I grew up in the Texarkana area and have some family there. Keith Craft is just a short stretch from there. I will probably get some heads like you got. How much were they if you don;t mind me asking? Take care, Todd

bud4660 · #15 (**permalink**) 02-23-2005, 07:09 AM

Todd. I would love to get down his way and check out his shop. It was to far just to drive down and back for me. The heads were off the motor that came in the car. Someone had did a little garage porting on them. So Keith cleaned them up put 2.19 intakes valves he cut down to 2.15 and did a competition valve job with springs to match the new cam he ordered for me. I want to say off the top of my head I spent around $1,400 on the heads. I would have to go back and look at the invoice to be sure. He also ordered the stroker kit and balanced it at the same time. So it was one big bill for all it.....lol

Bud

musclecargt500 · #16 (**permalink**) 03-25-2005, 10:25 AM

Well, the engine build has begun. I decided to keep things simple and go with the Edelbrock Performer RPM #7106 and run "out of the box" Edelbrock 60069 heads. It has a very nice set of Ross lightweight forged pistons p/n XL412-2. The lower end is balanced. I have opened up the main oil passages to 7/16 and radiused the curve. Also, deburred the block and opened up the oil returns in the lifter valley. I have a question. What pushrods will I need? I am going to run the Crane complete rocker setup p/n 34790-1 which are due to arrive mid-April. Will stock length pushrods work? How about Crane p/n 34642-16? I will post some pics next. Thanks for all of your help. Todd

musclecargt500 · #17 (**permalink**) 03-25-2005, 10:39 AM

Here is one of the Ross pistons. I used Childs & Albert file fit moly ring set. These have double spiral locks.

musclecargt500 · #18 (**permalink**) 03-25-2005, 10:43 AM

Here is the bottom side. I used ARP rod bolts and ARP main studs. It has a .010/.010 1U crankshaft.

musclecargt500 · #19 (**permalink**) 03-25-2005, 10:46 AM

And.....one of the top side.

Keithc8 · #20 (**permalink**) 03-26-2005, 08:20 PM

I believe you have the pistons in up-side down from looking at the photo. Looks like the pistons have the same size reliefs on both sides so they can go anywhere. Good luck, Keith



FE Forums sponsored by Keith Craft Inc.