427 side oiler engine build "Blog"

[Excaliber]

I hear you Bruce, this will be a first for me!

I knew it was going to be "controversial" at best. I'm not sure if I should "quote" my sources or not, at this point I am comfortable with the Mystery Oil advice and will be using it. I WILL report the good, the bad and the ugly, now and down the road.

"Torco" MPZ engine assembly lube on the crank bearings and Comp Cam "cam lube" on the cam and lifters. The Comp Cam lube appears to be exactly the same stuff as the "Torco" MPZ, but not sure if it is. Rockers, push rods, valve train in general with "assembly lube". E.O.S assembly lube here and there and to the oil pan with initial 30 wt oil for prelube and fire up.

[Excaliber]

NEWS FLASH:
Quote from Tom Kirkham concerning original Cobra parts.

"oil overflow tank 289 FIA: Marvel Mystery Oil cans."
If it was good enough for the Shelby team and my Dad, it's good enough for me!

Heres a pic of the new Aviad Road Race Oil Pan. Note the four "trap doors" in the center of the sump. That'll keep the oil flowing to the pump under extreme cornering conditions.

PAINT the oil pan or leave it natural? If paint, what color?

[Ron61]

Ernie,

Really looking good at this point. I will be looking forward to more pictures and that first start. Do you think you could video tape the start up? Nothing beats a video with sound to impress. Hope that you get everything all together soon.

Ron

[55312]

I've used Mystery Oil for years on my bike engines and to free up seized pistons on basket cases. We even had a gallon of it kicking around the Ford shop when we worked on the originals in the 60's. Great stuff but I thought you were going to assemble completely dry and was convinced you were suffering from macadamia poisoning.

[Excaliber]

Saying I was NOT using engine oil to insert the pistons was "accurate" but not "true". Unless Mystery Oil consititutes "engine oil". It sure did get some attention though and inspire some discussion!

I used a lint free rag soaked in Mystery Oil to wipe down the bore, and the same rag to wipe down the piston/rings. Affix ring compressor and gently guide the piston in.

Note the bearing shell is "offset" to one side in the connecting rod. This "offset" is to allow clearance on the chamfered outside edge of the crankshaft journal. Make SURE you get the connecting rod facing the right direction (not to mention the piston itself)!

[Bruce Edwards]

You really use a rag?
I have always used my fingers as they are a true lint free item. Being a painter as well as a engine builder, hey we do what we have to do, I have seen very few truly lint free rags. Even the ones I buy to use for wiping down cars that are made to be lint free are not. Any little ruff spot and off comes some of the cloth fibers.

[DuckRyder]

Very interesting,

I anxiously await a report of how the Marvel Mystery oil works. Have to admit I am not 100% sold on the idea.

My Speed Pros, Katherine and me were all covered head to toe in 30 wt Mobil. after the piston installation..





That is the final mock up and painting, now its back apart and going together for the final time.

I do like your wrinkle finish, that is going to look really nice!

A little more progress:

[Excaliber]

So WHO is REALLY behind the scenes on this "Engine Blog"? That would be Gessford Machine, George Anderson and Neil Groff. You DO know Gessford was named National Machine Shop of the year in 2004, don't you? Neil, engine assembly man SAVED me from an OIL BATH with his excellent tip on Marvel Mystery Oil. Eh eh, and you guys thought I had a clue? I am a grass hopper at the feet of the masters! :

George passed on these cam shaft retainer tips to "us". Read more here:
http://www.gessford.com/projects/ima...FEassy-121.gif
and
http://www.gessford.com/projects/ima...FEassy-119.gif

Note my OLD retainer bolts were phillips screws. I purchased ARP retainer bolts and a SPECIAL GESSFORD camshaft gear retainer washer from George.

Retaining plate oil groove UP and facing OUTSIDE.

[DuckRyder]

Well if George said use MMO then I have no question it will be fine. You have my buy in there.

Sure should be significantly less messy

(Side note: Roller bearing camshaft retainers may not have an oiling grove)

Edit: photo of roller cam retainer: This is the backside, one bearing assembly installs in the recess facing the block, another in front of it. Machining of the cam gear is required.

.

I am looking forward to hearing your impressions of how the new engine performs compared to the older one.

Sorry for the HiJack!

[Excaliber]

Now THATS a trick cam gear setup!

,,, better than what I got.

[DonC]

Is that Glyptol on the oil hole channels?
DonC

[Excaliber]

The block was like that when I tore it down. I've seen pics from Gessfords site and chamfering that area is one of the things they also do. Some kind of coating on it for sure. Glyptol your thinking? I've seen red and clear but not black.

Good question for George. I wonder what he use's?

[RedCSX1]

??????? You can't be serious. You need to come up with a different nick name!

Morgan

[Excaliber]

Morgan, you running roller rockers in yours? No "break in" required on those (tempting, very tempting).

I see your running flat top pistons, whats the compression ratio?

[RedCSX1]

Edlebrock aluminum heads bare. Milled .003 to insure the surface is flat. Because the cutter that Eldebrock uses makes mulitple passes over the aluminum head. You should have the machine shop mill the head suface insure they are square or perfectly flat. But I guess you knew that already.

Morgan

[Excaliber]

I was running 667 flywheel horse with a fairly radical roller cam and 12.5 to 1 compression. George (Gessford) calculates I will be giving up about 150 horse with the new flat tappet and lower 9.8 to 1 compression (street motor this time).

I had the heads checked OK. BUT I'm thinking about having the exhaust port side milled to insure a good gasket seal on the exhaust side.

I'm still looking for "flow numbers" comparing Edelbrock heads to my original High Riser iron heads. I suspect there is not much difference, assuming both are "stock". Mine have not been "ported" per se, cleaned up is all. They have ENORMOUS ports.

[1Trkpony]

I just completed the removal of the inner springs on my heads in prep for cam break in too. I only did the drivers side while bolted down as the passenger side head was off to fix a bad rocker bolt insert in my head. I used a compressor made for removing springs while heads still bolted down. I fab'd up a spark plug air fitting using my comprression tester and put 120PSI in the cylinders. Becaues I have dual springs with the damper (like your pictures above) the compressor only grabs the outer so you have to overcome the inner spring pressure to remove the locks. With a sharp rap on the head of the valve they keepers losened up and I was able to remove it no problem. Actually it was pretty simple. Biggest problem is not to loose the keepers if the pop out.

Like you I am using the "belt and suspenders" approach to cam break in. I removed my inner springs, plus I am going with a high zinc oil (in my case delo400 10W-40 diesel oil), and to add a little extra insurance I am using the GM EOS (engine oil supplement) too.

[55312]

Use a socket and hammer to rap the spring washer. This dislodges the keepers and be careful they don't fly around !

[Excaliber]

Just a quick up-date. The "long block" is now assembled. The transmission is also mounted. The game plan is to install the engine/trans unit this Saturday with the help of some Hawaii Cobra Club guys coming over. Pics coming soon, between work and the engine build just running out of TIME!!

Hoping someone brings a video camera, I only have digital still.

Ernie

[musclecargt500]

It is a thing of beauty! I can't wait to get mine to that stage. Shouldn't be long. Congratulations!