breaking-in cam, inner springs

[lineslinger]

Hi Guys,
I have been reading a lot of threads regarding spring pressure and the damage ocouring to cam lobes during break-in or the first few thousand miles.
Here's my question, as I begin to assemble my engine, in your opinion, while building out my heads should I leave out the inner springs on my valve train set-up? If so for how long?
Components are a 427so standard bore, 428 scat crank, eagle rods, diamond pistons, edelbrock performer rpm heads, comp cams 282s solid lifter camshaft, solid lifters,(duh), dove roller rocker assembly.
I should also say that I have installed all the necessary restrictor plugs in the block and head.
I think I know the answer to this one but there is a lot of expereince out there I would like to tap into.

Thanks,

Mark

[Excaliber]

My opinion, which Gessford STRONGLY advised me to do:

Break in the cam without the inner springs. Run the motor 20-30 minutes at 2000-2500 rpm. Drain the oil and change the filter and re-install the inner springs.

I did not change out my springs right away however. In fact I put a few hundred miles on the car before I did. I figured PLENTY of time to break in the cam\lifters couldn't hurt! I just kept the rpm down until I had the inners installed and the motor was "broke in".

Once you put the cam lube on the lifters/lobes don't wait to long before installing and starting the motor.

[Michael4yah]

What would you say would be the best way to approach an engine that was assembled a year ago and was hand turned frequently but had the inner springs installed? Would you tear the engine down anyway? Thanks Michael

[Excaliber]

I'd pull the lifters and recoat the lobes and the bottom of the lifters with cam lube. Then pre-oil pressure the engine before I fired it up. NO WAY I'd run that motor without doing the above first, your just asking for a flat cam!

[FUNFER2]

I agree with all of the above. You don't want to run the inner springs until after break in. Also, make sure.......that the inner springs do not touch the valve seals !!! they will crack & you'll smoke out you peace pipes. It happend to me last year. Nine, in total cracked. Heads, intake, push rods ect.... al have to come back off again. Real pain in the @ss

[Michael4yah]

Man you guys are something, you all could write a book or something.

[RICK LAKE]

Mike where was this motor? Basement in heat or garage? Where the rockers bolted down? Did you oil the cylinder walls before you assemblied it? Was the motor bagged with moistier packets? I would pull the heads and check for rust rings in any of your cylinders. Spray and clean with WD-40. Re oil. if any of your answers are no except the last. Pull the intake and re coat the lifters, and remove the inner springs on the valves. I wouldn't keep spinning that crank over. Any lube you have put on it except assembly lube is at the bottom of the bearing or in the oil pan. Pre lube the motor and break it in. Keep the revs down, under 3500 rpm. After reinstall the springs, change oil and drive Rick Lake

[Michael4yah]

The completed engine was in a non heated garage in VA. I didnt assemble it. Everything was bolted down as it was going to be used right away but it sat for one year,. Owner said it was hand turned every week or so. Looks like all of its orafices were sealed but not bagged or anything like that.
Michael

[Excaliber]

I think you'll be fine as far as cylinder walls and internals go, I wouldn't loose any sleep over it.

Pre-oil pressurize is an absolute MUST do for the sake of the lower end as well as just a good idea all around for any new engine. Bummer you have to re-do the cam/lifters, but it's worth the effort.

[Michael4yah]

Just one thing. How do you pre-oil pressurize? Man do I feel stupid. Ive actually rebuilt one of these before, just that it was 38 years ago. When things were simple, and cheap, and more fun with less risk, well maybe not that far!!

[Excaliber]

The oil pump is driven by the bottom of the distributor shaft through a long rod that drops into the oil pump gear. You'll need to fabricate a "drive shaft" long enough to reach all the way from the pump up through the distributor hole and finally to a drill motor to spin the shaft.

To save time and wear and tear fill up your oil filter first.

[ffindling]

You can also take a junk distributor and
machine off enough of the drive gear so
it no longer engages the camshaft and
spins freely. Then take a short piece of
round stock that will fit down the other
end of the shaft where the rotor once
went and weld it in. (You might have to
turn down the "free" end of it to fit into
the chuck of whatever drill you are using)

....Fred