Recommended 427 Side Oiler Components

[IceStorm]

I'm just starting to look at building up a 427 side oiler, using a new aluminum block. Anyone have any suggestions for the major components...block, heads, crankshaft, pistons, cam, etc.?

[HSSS427]

Take a look at Keith Craft's site and see what he builds them with. Probably a good starting point, and someone you may want to use if you're not ready to build it all yourself.

[lineslinger]

Check the FE talk forum, theres a lot of info and opinions from guys who have designed and built their own engines with a lot of varying formulas with many different end results. Using the search function on this forum you can find extensive feedback on almost any component you want
It will give you a good start toward your research, if you want opinions on build components you have come to the right place.
See threads: Shelby aluminum block owners.... also
Dove aluminum block

[jdog]

Welcome,
Look back at some of the old posts for info.
Just last week there was a pretty good thread, where a lot of people posted their 427 components.

Good luck!

jdog
P.S. Take a look at my photo gallery for pic's of an 'Old school' iron block 427.

[Michael4yah]

Ice, What block did you buy? Heads? Michael

[Excaliber]

Mild or wild? Street or strip? 6000 rpm or so, as opposed to 7000-8000 rpm? Cam selection: If street match your expected CRUISE rpm (rear gear ratio) to a cam profile that WORKS well in that range. Compression, keep it to 10 to 1 max if street with alloy heads, less if iron heads, think 'pump gas'. Comp cams 282S solid lifter flat tappet is a good 'all around' reasonable cost choice for decent street\strip performance (6000 rpm limit). Match the head FLOW data to the cam profile. 8000 rpm heads with a 6000 rpm cam is a waste of money. When buying the cam get the 'Cam KIT', which will include matching springs. Use new retainers, etc.

What you really doing\asking here is: How should I 'blue print' my motor (beginning stages)?

What I did was contact one of the major engine builders and bought ALL my parts through HIM! Even though SOME items might cost more, the 'expertise' you get when doing it that way is 'priceless'! Not ALL builders want to be 'bothered' with simply selling 'parts' and 'giving up' their hard earned suggestions as to WHAT parts to buy. I was fortunate that Gessford Machine worked closely with me in determing the 'specs' and 'parts' I needed for MY build. But I actually built the motor MYSELF. I am, of course, very grateful to "George" and "Neil" for there help.

Pull up a chair and check out my "Engine Build Blog" for more info...

[Michael4yah]

Experience is the best teacher. If you lack experience then show him the money. Buy your parts from someone who can guide you at least through the machining and short block build. The FE is a great motor but has its share of quirks and mine fields. Ive learned a lot from listening here on CC, but when I started buying parts for my build I went to someone who had years on me. These guys dont cost you money they save you money, at least To A Point. Use them to plan it all out right down to the last bolt. There will be plenty of decisions that you will have to make along the way, but the major $ items that go bang in the night will be covered by some thoughtful persons who know more than you or I. My 2 cents.

[IceStorm]

Thanks to everyone who responded. Michael, I haven't bought anything yet...just in the planning stages.

Excaliber...I appreciate your detailed response. I'm planning for the street. I love the idle to studder a little bit, but not enough to be objectionable. Your comment about matching cam RPM to the cruise range is interesting. I built a 351W for a Midstates cobra and was happy with the results. But I'm often cruising below 2000 RPM and the cam doesn't come alive until 2500...all Edelbrock stuff. Could that be responsible for relatively poor gas mileage? I thought a 351 with a 3.50 rear end would do better than 9.5-11 mpg.

Thanks again for all the responses.

[Excaliber]

Well 351's were never known for 'great mileage' and acutally 9.5 to 11 sounds about right!

But I see you got the point! Matching the cam profile to your expected cruise rpm helps to optimize everything, including gas mileage. But of even more concern would be drivability issues. If the motor is not 'comfortable' you have to give it more gas than you would like, or consider down shifting, or speeding up, all of which is a hassle and distractes from the enjoyment of the cruise.

I'm not saying the Comp Cams 282S is right for YOUR motor, but that basic profile makes for a nice 'lumpy' (sounds mean) but reasonable idle. It pulls well from 2000 (even lower) but maxes out around 6000-6200 which might be to low an rpm for some. It's a solid flat tappet, some prefer a hydraulic or hyd roller. I would NOT recommend a solid roller unless your willing to spend BIG bucks and get the absolute latest technology using oil pressure feed to the rollers (read $$$).

Matching the components, ALL the components including trans gear ratios, ah, THERES the ticket! You really do need to consult with the best engine builder you can find (uh, that aint me). I am a grasshopper at the feet of the masters!