How to rebuild a 427 Side oiler

chas427fe · #1 (**permalink**) 07-22-2006, 07:40 PM

This started out as an overheating problem but when the heads came off it revealed major problems. They are able to fix the Edelbrock heads by replacing several valves & springs, the intake and carburator are good. So what I seem to have is a 427 so with 2 holes in the side of the block, a broken tab for the bellhousing in the drivers side, a couple of cylinders have some of the metal broke out at the base of the cylinder. If the block is not cracked, I have a quote of $2,200.00 for 8 sleeves and new pistons. It is supposed to have a 428 Cobra Jet crank and I plan on using it. My cam and lifters are toast so I need new ones. What I'm looking for are suggestions for rebuilding it. I should end up with 427 so at standard bore, 428 Cobra Jet crank, Edelbrock heads, the pistons are supposed to be 10:1, Edelbrock mid riser manifold with Holley 750 carb, Edelbrock water pump, MSD distributor. Whatkind of cam and lifters would go with this. I do mostly leisure driving with occasion leg spasms that make the tires spin. What kind of cam and hydraulic lifters, and rods would work here? Thanks. Chas

ERA Chas · #2 (**permalink**) 07-22-2006, 08:12 PM

First, find out why it overheated then how it overheated with 2 holes in the side!
Scrap the block and you'll be money ahead. That broken "tab" as you call it, may be more trouble than you think if you have a clutch slave that has to mount there. Yes, iron can be welded, but I wouldn't want that kind of repair with clutch pressure working against it constantly. Also, the crank may be hurt from when the windows were added to the block-so don't count on it.
Get an iron Genesis SO for about $3500 (or less) done and sleep well at night. Or, if you don't have to have an SO, Keith Craft offers very nice 390 blocks in bigger displacements. BTW 4.23 SO bore x 3.98 CJ crank = 448 cid.
Good luck.

chas427fe · #3 (**permalink**) 07-22-2006, 08:38 PM

It overheated when a bolt backed out of the alternator bracket and stopped the water pump from turning. This caused one of the sleeves to crack. The holes were from a long time ago and were repaired with welded plates over them from where I guess a rod let loss. The broken tab has a jury rigged bracket welded on that was holding before the rest of this started. The crank was added after the holes were welded onto the block or so it appears. Chas

ERA Chas · #4 (**permalink**) 07-22-2006, 09:00 PM

The more you tell, the worse this gets.
So the block was sleeved before and you want to sleeve it again?
All these crack-pot repairs to a sleeved block with mis-matched parts and you bought it anyway?
You're getting serious BS from someone about bracket bolts stopping water pumps which crack sleeves. Doesn't your car have a temp gauge?
I stick to my advice in previous post, but I don't think you comprehend the extent of the mess you're in.

chas427fe · #5 (**permalink**) 07-22-2006, 10:06 PM

I let myself be scammed by the person who sold it to me. He claimed it had been been built 3000 miles ago. The info I'm now passing on is what my mechanic found when we openned it up after the overheat. The engine was in the car when I bought it and all of this stuff was not visible except the bolt which happened when my son and I took it after buying the car.

flwolfman · #6 (**permalink**) 07-22-2006, 10:13 PM

You have received some very good advise. There are a lot of good blocks out there so why spend good money on bad. Check out the advertisers on this site. They have some great engines with great reputations. Just my 2 cents. Good luck on your build. Jim

chas427fe · #7 (**permalink**) 07-22-2006, 10:24 PM

Thanks for the advice. I'm going to call Keith Craft.

chas427fe · #8 (**permalink**) 08-24-2006, 07:05 PM

Update. I called Keith and he built me a 428 bored and stroked to 460. It came in today.Can't wait to drive it.

undy · #9 (**permalink**) 08-25-2006, 04:49 AM

Good move!! I mulled over R&R-ing my 428 but after much debate and discussion I went to Keith to build me a Pond aluminum 482" side oiler.

Tom of VA · #10 (**permalink**) 09-22-2006, 08:45 PM

Chas,
Let us know how it runs. I know the feeling when you buy someone else’s troubles. The guy I bought my car from told me the engine was perfect. After I received the car it barley ran and had low compression in 3 holes. All I had to do was drop the oil. When I saw the sewage drain out I knew I was had. 5-6K and later I'll be fine. I can't imagine telling someone that its OK and know it's not

where is karma?

Excaliber · #11 (**permalink**) 09-22-2006, 10:13 PM

Curious, what year block was the side oiler that broke? An original early block won't accept hydraulic lifters.

So what kind of cam did you select did you select for your new motor? Hydro or solid?

chas427fe · #12 (**permalink**) 09-23-2006, 09:17 AM

I am getting closer. The engine came in from Keith Craft. It is a 428 FE, with a Scat 4.250 crank for 460 cubes, Scat rods, Diamond pistons, Comp roller cam, Erson rocker arms, Edelbrock intake and heads and Holley 750 double pumper. I have 350 miles on it but the last time I went out I was cruising along on the interstate and it just died. I have fuel pressure, I ordered a new ignition module and put in the MSD distributer but that didn't fix it so right now I am working on trying to figure out why it does not fire. The rotor goes around so it doesn't look like the timing got messed up but I am going to do more checking. It will backfire through the carb and kinda acts like it wants to start. As soon as I get more time I will dig into it further.

The side oiler that I bought it with,has a solid lifter cam in it.



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