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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2006, 11:50 PM
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Default Oil pressure 0

Fired up the 63 427so and noticed the oil pressure was O , shut her down immediately. Pulled the driver side valve cover to look around.I reviewed and searched this site but couldn't find any info as to how much oil should be visable and if oil pump spun by drill how fast should the flow be. I'm trying to see if I need to pull the pan and look around. BTW engine sounded fine while running.
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Jeff
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Old 08-07-2006, 05:07 AM
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Attach a mech guage that you know is accurrate---it show show pressure while turning with a drill==

One of the common things we see in customer cars that we install engines in is an inoperative guage

I'm thinking of making a pressure chamber that we can test oil pressure guages with so we can verify correct operation before we even put an engine in the car, also a system for the temp guages, but that would take several sensors

Jerry
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Old 08-07-2006, 10:50 PM
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If you're looking for oil in the heads, it depends on if there's an oil restrictor installed; with an oil restrictor, the heads won't get "flooded" with oil, just a small flow dripping off the stamped steel parts. You should feel a definite drag on the drill motor when turning the oil pump shaft counterclockwise. FYI, if you have a spare distributor, strip it down to just the main shaft and use that to turn the oil pump shaft.

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Old 08-08-2006, 11:35 PM
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Default more info

When I pulled the distributer and went to attatch the drill I noticed the shaft was very wobbly, and had no drag on drill. Placed it on jacks tonight and will pull the pan and proceed from there when I can see whats going on.
Thanks for the replies.
Jeff
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Old 08-09-2006, 12:09 AM
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WHOA, slow down! The oil pump shaft will be wobbly because the hole it's in is large for clearance. Your drill probably won't reach it either. That's why I said to take apart a spare distributor and use just the main shaft to attach your drill to, and the end of the distributor shaft will reach & turn the oil pump shaft. I'm sure you can also buy a "pre-oiler shaft" from somewhere like Summit. Also, remember to turn the shaft counterclockwise when checking oil pressure.

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Old 08-09-2006, 09:52 AM
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If you have a remote oil filter, maybe you just have the lines connected wrong.
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Old 08-11-2006, 12:12 AM
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Default found problem

Dropped the oilpan because the pump drive shaft not only was wobbly but had vertical play. Found the drive shaft sheared off with portion left in .That explains all the play and why when I attatched a counter clockwise running drill there wasn't any resistance. Now the question is how to remove the stuck piece and then find a new drive shaft.
Jeff
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Old 08-11-2006, 05:06 AM
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You better see why it sheared....remove the pump as well and see if/why it's locked up.
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Old 08-11-2006, 05:40 AM
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Two bolts hold your oil pump to your block but you may also need to remove your pickup (another two 9/16" bolts). What kind of distributor do you have in your engine? Your distributor drive shaft sets in the top of your oil pump and has a washer at the end of it that prevents you from pulling the oil pump shaft out when you remove your distributor. I would certainly pull the oil pump and remove the inspection cover to make sure there is no debris lodged between the rotating gears in the pump. You will probably need to replace your oil pump M-57 normal or MHV 57 high volume part numbers. I personally run the High volume pump w/ the larger oil pump drive shaft. But given all the varied opinions here I would say replace it with what your engine builder recommends.


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Old 08-11-2006, 06:58 PM
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I guess you were on the right track after all. Carry on...
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Old 08-12-2006, 09:37 AM
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Default Thanks for replies

Clois- I have a billet MSD distibuter. I removed the inspection plate and found no reason for the shaft failure. NO debris, pieces of metal or any other reason to have the gear stop. Since I couldn't find a good reason for this failure I decided to replace all involved pieces, except for distributer.
Hardend pump shaft units are hard to find in my area and the parts will be here on Monday. Thanks for all the advice. On behalf of all the Cobra newbies
(everyone was one once, some just forgot) Bless you all for your replies.

Jeff
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Old 08-13-2006, 07:47 PM
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Check the actual pump. A small chunk of crap can lock the gear rotor. With the pickup tube removed does your pump turn freely in both directions. It is supposed to pump when rotating counter clockwise. If you connect the pickup tube to the pump and emerse the pickup in a can of oil to prime the pump , the pump should turn counter clockwise with a noticeable drag on a 1/2' or larger drill motor. It will be verry difficult to hold on to with your hands. Chuck the pump and pickup in a vise and have someone hold the can of oil to the pickup .You'll have your hands full with just the drill motor.
The distributor drives the oil pump not the other way around. The better oil pump drive shafts are available Summit and Jeggs. If for some reason there is a problem with your oil pump. Prescision Oil pumps have blue printed Melling High volum oil pumps. They convinced me to go with a truck pump with a larger drive input than the car pump and had a dandy shaft to go between it to the car disrtibutor. Then Milidon and others make a priming drive shaft for priming with an counter clockwise rortating electric drill motor before installing the distributor. watch the oil run and squirt . Then if there isin't oil you have other problems. You want the pump primed ,the filter full , the oil cooler and hoses full when you next try to restart your engine. make sure if you have a remote filter that the oil flows to the element from the side and out the middle. The other way the oil encounters a check valve and flow is stopped.
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Last edited by Michael C Henry; 08-13-2006 at 08:01 PM..
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Old 08-13-2006, 07:56 PM
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I know first hand that a pump with a little piece of metal in it will sieze and shear the shaft....Happened to me last year. Pulled the pump apart and found the end of a helicoil in there. Replaced the pump and rod bearings (probably didn't need to do that part) and was off to the races again. For the shaft to shear like that, it had to be the pump siezing.
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