installing new intake gasket on sideoiler

[steve meltzer]

I've got a small oil leak at the rear of my Edelbrock intake manifold, on an original '65 sideoiler. Is it best to pull the carb, thermostat housing, etc and then remove the intake, or can I do a good job using a "cherry picker" to lift the entire "kit and kaboodle" off the block? Any other pearls of wisdom? thanx
steve meltzer "never enough time to do it right, always enough time to do it over"

[Rick Parker]

Have you thought of trying to apply a "Dab" of a sealant such as "The Right Stuff"? It is an unvulcanized rubber that cures and does a very good job, much better than silicone. That would sure save you a lot of effort and time. Clean with Carb or Brake cleaner or lacquer thinner before applying. Good stuff!

http://www.permatex.com/brand_right_stuff.htm

[steve meltzer]

Rick, thanx for the idea. i tried regular "copper" silicone, but it didn't work. I'll try your idea and thanx again. s

[Rick Parker]

Steve you have PM

[Excaliber]

I prefer to remove the carbs and what ever accessories from the intake so I can totally focus on setting that intake down EXCATLY in the right position. I simply used basic silicone seal, front and back, no leaks.

[Carnut427]

I've left the carbs on, but I prefer to remove the water pump and whatever is in the way of doing that; otherwise you've got to install the intake at an angle with the front of it down to get the bypass hose on. It's my opinion the front seal can get messed up installing the intake that way. As Ernie stated, it's better to set the intake straight down.
I hope you're able to patch the leak as Rick suggested.

Dan

[steve meltzer]

thanx for all of the advice. i'll clean off all of the RTV I've caked on and try Rick's idea and let you know. Iffin it doens't work, I'll take it apart. thanx again. s

[Rick Parker]

I don't want to beat a dead horse but those of you that haven't tried this product owe it to yourself to do so. It has quite a bit more body that RTV, or silicone, and it doesn't flow or squirt out as quickly. It works excellent for front covers, oil pans, front & rear mains, and thermostat housings. I use this exclusively since I discovered it.

[Excaliber]

Good tip Rick, I think I'll check it out.

[steve meltzer]

Sure sounds like heresey to me! So even on valve cover gaskets and water pumps, etc, you use the "Right Stuff" instead of silicone? In all applications where you use it, do you use it just like you'd use silicone? I started the clean up of the old RTV I'd slathered on the manifold leak, in anticipation of using "The Right Stuff" this weekend. I'll keep you posted. thanx again. steve

[Carnut427]

While it's great to have another option, silicone works fine for me, so I see no reason to change products at this time. Is there a price difference between the two Rick? If I could save a bit and still have acceptable results I might be persuaded. I also accept bribes...

Dan

[Rick Parker]

Carnut427: No, quite the converse."The Right Stuff" comes in an aerosol can like that cheese you put on crackers except a little larger, its about $10 bucks a can. It works! Silicone is no longer in my vocabulary.

[Carnut427]

Rick, I respect your opinions; however, since I'm quite satisfied with silicone, it makes no sense to me to pay more for a different product that does the same job. Your priorities are obviously different, and I'm cool with that.

Dan

[slithering]

Steve,

It is very important to let the silicone or the right stuff dry for 8-10 hours before you restart the engine!

Chris

[steve meltzer]

Rick, I put "The Right Stuff" in the area of the leak, after cleaning it well. I let it dry for 24 hours and then drove it about 10 miles...dry so far! thanx for the good help. It looks very promising! steve