New Engine Specs..thoughts, ideas, input???

[meandmyprs]

I am ready to order the engine for my Kirkham. Here is what has been spec'd out with the help of the engine builder...There is not a forum anywhere else on the planet with more than cobra/427 knowledge than what exists right here at Club Cobra so I am looking for some the wisdom and knowledge that exists around here. Send me a note if you think I should change, look at something else, or re-consider. Thanks in advance.

Base Engine: 427 Shelby Aluminum Block (fully machined), Scat forged 4340 H-Beam Rods, Scat Cast Steel Crankshaft, Diamond Pistons, Plasma Moly Rings, Bearings, Melling Oil Pump, Ford Racing Oil Pump Drive, Polished Shelby Front Cover, Remote Oil Filter Mount, BHJ Damper; Zero Balanced, Blueprinted & Assembled
Camshaft: Comp Cams Hydraulic Roller
Cylinder Heads: Edelbrock Stage II (CNC), heads milled
Valve Train: Erson Rocker System, Smith Brothers Pushrods, Crane Lifters
Intake: Shelby Polished
Carburetor: Holley Quick Fuel 750
Oil Pan: Aviaid
Valve Covers: Polished Shelby with breathers
Ignition: MSD Distributor, MSD 6AL Box, Coil & Coil Bracket, Plug Wires, Plug Wire Holders, NGK Spark Plugs
Water Pump: Shelby Polished
Miscellaneous: Power Master Starter, Kirkham upper & lower pulleys with bracket, Polished Fuel Pump, Polished Alternator, Stainless braided fuel lines & fittings from pump to carburetor, Lakewood bellhousing indexed for a Kirkham, Ram Clutch & Pressure Plate, Ram Aluminum Flywheel

[lineslinger]

You certainly didn't skimp on quality, I'll give you that. You might get some alternative suggestions as to this component or that component but your choices are all solid.
Some may ask why carb over fuel injection or which crank, a 427 or a 428, why hydraulic instead of solid lifters, but without knowing the overall formula you seek those questions become subjective..........personal choices, part of the build "fun".
You didn't specify what your cam profile will be or what manner you plan on running the car, which is where the cam profile will become important.
Are you going to assemble the motor or work in conjunction with the builder or have the builder do the job?

[RedCSX1]

also autolite plugs instead of NGK, If you are running it on the street you may opt for a steel flywheel. Better at lower RPM's I believe.

Morgan

[Barry_R]

Quick Fuel is fine on the carb IMHO - they were on my last two Engine Masters motors and performed well. Seems kinda small though at 750...how many cubes is this gonna be?

[lineslinger]

RedCSX1,
From what I have been advised in regards to flywheels, the heavier 28 and 30 pound flywheels were designed for a much heavier car than a Cobra, 3800 pounds and up, more inertia to get more weight moving.
In a car that is only sporting 2200 lbs. a lighter 15 lb. flywheel will still generate plenty of low speed energy while allowing the engine to rev up quite a bit quicker. I am keeping my steel flywheel while for now but am asking the tranny vendors I approach to bid out an aluminum flywheel in my gearbox setup.

Mark

[RedCSX1]

When I was assembling my CSX I ordered all the trans related parts through David Kee. He recommended the Steel flywheel to me over the aluminum. Granted the aluminum does give the car some zing however some people who had them installed where not super please with the end result.

Carb: I am running a 830cfm DP with annular discharge which is a good carb for my 482 Pond motor. Much better than the Mighty Demon I had on there before.

[427SnakeSC]

Originally Posted by RedCSX1

When I was assembling my CSX I ordered all the trans related parts through David Kee. He recommended the Steel flywheel to me over the aluminum. Granted the aluminum does give the car some zing however some people who had them installed where not super please with the end result.

Carb: I am running a 830cfm DP with annular discharge which is a good carb for my 482 Pond motor. Much better than the Mighty Demon I had on there before.

I have KC building me basically the same engine you have. I am using a cast Pond block with much of the same equip. Are you recommending I go with the steel flywheel? If so, why? I'll be going with a 482 bore & stroke. Edlebrock alluminum heads, mild HR cam.

[Stentor]

You didn't mention bore and stroke. Are you going with the Shelby big bore block?

Also, this sounds like specifications from Keith Craft. Is he the builder you selected?

Incidentally, he (Keith Craft) is building a 511 ci Shelby aluminum engine for my CSX.

[RedCSX1]

He just did my heads (they were previously done by someone else). Pond aluminum block, Comp Hyd Roller cam, etc. Almost same specs above. I am running a ported Blue Thunder intake. Also a rocker set up by Precision Oil Pumps as well as there blue printed oil pump.

[meandmyprs]

Morgan, nice pics. I am curious what your thoughts are on Pond-vs-Shelby relative to the block?...I am sure you have dug through this topic thoroughly and I am just educating myslef.

[lineslinger]

This Pond block is designated for a Cammer build, lots of opinions on the two blocks, this builder has done both and finds the Pond to be superior to the Shelby, less machining, stouter webbing, thicker walls etc.
Red CSX, did D. Kee happen to tell you why he preferred the steel fly wheel over the aluminum? Maybe warpage in a high heat situation? The machine work on the Mcleod alum. FW is very well done. I have had quite a few FE old timers tell me to go with aluminum for the reasons I mentioned earlier, I would certainly like to hear opposing opinions/reasoning..

[RedCSX1]

Originally Posted by meandmyprs

Morgan, nice pics. I am curious what your thoughts are on Pond-vs-Shelby relative to the block?...I am sure you have dug through this topic thoroughly and I am just educating myslef.

I can send you more pictures of the Pond Block. I went with the Pond Block afer researching and talking with several people who had Shelby blocks.They or did require a great deal of machining. If you do go with Shelby go through Roush they have signed a contract with Shelby and they know what it takes to get the Block working like it should.
I liked the Pond block based on the quality of the casting. It also looks exactly like a 427 side oiler. It's just well made overall.

[427SnakeSC]

"Red CSX, did D. Kee happen to tell you why he preferred the steel fly wheel over the aluminum?"

I would be interested in the answer, too.

[RICK LAKE]

meandmyrs I have 2 Shelby blocks and feel that they are built in the bottom end stronger that the other blocks made. Also the head studs pull from the crank mains and not the sidewalls of the block. Pond looks original, the shelby looks a like different. I had a 40 lb flywheel in my car for 3 years and then went to a 20lb flywheel. The car ran and feels quicker. Unless you are in parades and running 3 mph, a 2,500 lb car doesn't need a 40 lb flywheel. How ever you need to balance the motor with both the dampener and flywheel when building a motor. If you are running a .700" cam you might want the 40lb to help keep the vibration of the engine down a little at idle. I would have a 3 quart preoiler accusump that I use before staring my motor. 80% of wear is on startup. It may also save your motor if you go racing and something happens to the oilpump or drive. I have mine on a switch to control. Only keep it on when roadracing. It saved my motor this year at R&G when a broken rocker shaft happened and the lifters popped out of there bores. Motor is ok need to do some head repair work. The proper clearances for an Aluminium motor is the most important thing to long life and durablity. Keith C builds some nice motors with a custom cam and hydro lifters. 1 NOTE if you have never own a hot race car, trest your cobra like a loaded gun, RESPECT IT. This car has kill people who think there is NOTHING they are not the master of. You don't need 600HP in this car to have alot of fun. I run 370 hp and 468 tork in a 9.2 compression motor,and turn 12.5 in the 1/4 mile and can run on cheap gas, 87 proof. A 484 or 511 are nice motors My next is a 496 shelby. Go to the FE forumn and there is plenty of info on that site. Good Luck with the car Rick Lake

[meandmyprs]

thx for the input everone...much thanks

[RedCSX1]

Originally Posted by 427SnakeSC

"Red CSX, did D. Kee happen to tell you why he preferred the steel fly wheel over the aluminum?"

I would be interested in the answer, too.

Going off of memory since 2003
For me the question that came up was how much are you going to be on the track? I told Keith if I remember correctly about 30% compared to 70% on the street. There was the additional cost of the aluminum flywheel and I think more vibration with a aluminum his recomendation was lightweight steel. The lightweight steel is not that much heavier than the aluminum and 1/2 the cost.

http://www.4speedtoploaders.com/shop/enter.html

Here is is the parts list from David that I ordered from him:
9/24/03 David Kee Top Loaders
• Top loader 1748.00
• Flywheel (lightweight steel) 293.00
• Throw out bearing 45.00
• Pivot/hardware 28.00
• Shifter and Installation Kit 425.00
10/3/03 David Kee Top Loaders
• McLeod Clutch disc (organic) 93.00
• Mc Leod Pressure Plate 193.00

I bought the Lakewood bellhousing from Summit
• Lakewood Bell Housing 287.95

[427SnakeSC]

That's great RedCSX. Thanks for your reply. I'll ask Keith for his recommendations, too.