Brand New Kid on the Block

[Gillman]

Greetings Gents,

Brand new here so I wanted to tell everyone hi!

I have a 1967 Fastback GT with the 390/4 speed and have some engine questions.

I'm doing a total restoration and today makes 4 years. Two years ago I had my 390 bored .030 over, turned crank, new cam bearings, reconditioned rods, all new ARP hardware etc... I'm building a roller motor and am duplicating Hot Rod Magazine's January, 2003's FE build up.

I'm taking the engine to a different machine shop to have the short block assembled.

I am using a Canton oil pan and I understand that the end main cap may need machining to accept the pan??? Also, should chamfering the oil passages be done for better lubrication....where? What other concerns do I need to be aware of?

Sorry fellows but I'm new and have $8,000.00 in parts for my block and need to know what to tell the machine shop.

[xlr8or]

I would think that an experienced FE shop should already know the answers to these questions.

[Dwight]

If the machine shop does not build FE's on a regular bases, take you parts to another shop! Shops that build chevies and other brands will most likely screw your FE up. Look at all the guys on this site that have had trouble with this type of shop.

Dwight

[RedCSX1]

He can tell you everything you need to know as well as sell you a blue printed FE oil pump and drive shaft. Also sells rockers and shafts for FE's as well as other FE performance parts.

Doug Garifo 559-960-0463

[chuckbrandt]

I'd add that you should go to the www.FordFE.com and search the archives on oiling mods for the FE. There are widely differing opinions that you should think through yourself.

In my opinion it's a good idea to chamfer the main bearing oil holes to align with the bearings, run a high volume pump and your increased capacity canton pan. It's unfortunate that you already have cam bearings installed, any oiling mods you do will make chips that will be hard to clean out with the cam bearings in there, so maybe you should skip the oiling mods.

Do contact Doug Garifo at Precision Oil Pumps. You'll want to get his rocker shaft end stands at least and I'd recommend his oil pumps, drives, and rocker shaft studs.

The deal with the rear main cap needing to be machined is only if you've installed ARP studs in the mains. The nuts stick up too far so you need to machine the cap to allow the canton pan (and windage tray if you have it) to sit on the block. Also ARP recommends you have your block align honed with any change of main fastener type.

And do find a good machine shop that knows FEs, the cam plug cups out not in, etc. www.gessford.com or www.keithcraft.com are good ones, but if you ask around you may find a great place in your area.

I'm getting ready to start my 3rd FE build, they are fun and interesting engines to work on. They do have some unique features that might throw off the average chevy oriented machine shop.

Chuck