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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 06-08-2007, 08:24 PM
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Default Totally frustrated right now...New TKO won't mount up after 3 hour battle.

I just wrestled with a new tko 600 for 3 hours and it wont slide all the way into the bellhousing. My back is killing me...I'm worn out for now.

I have a short input shaft tko and I measured the input shaft length and compared that to the overall depth from the bell surface to the crank pilot recess and these dimensions check out just fine. I aligned the clutch with a dummy input shaft....the tranny goes in but then stops about 5/16" from going all the way home.

I have never had this much trouble mounting a tranny onto a block...this really has me baffled.
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Old 06-08-2007, 08:30 PM
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Is your throw out bearing binding?
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Old 06-08-2007, 08:37 PM
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Are you using a bushing or a bearing?

If you're using a bearing, I've found that it's generally tighter to get in.

If your bellhousing has been lined up and you're sure that the measurements clear, then put a bolt in and see if you can pull it in with just a little bit of pressure. I normally wouldn't advise that, but I've had to resort to that before with a pilot bearing.
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Old 06-08-2007, 08:42 PM
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Default I dont think so...

all by itself...the throwout bearing slides onto the retainer real easy. Individually all the parts fit together. The lakewood was dialed in and it was within .002". The bell slides over the bearing retainer and fits real good there. The input shaft fits into the pilot bearing hole w/o trouble.

I just dont get it. I have installed at least 10 toploader and T5's over the years and it has always been pretty easy. This realy chaps my A*S.
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Old 06-08-2007, 08:45 PM
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Default Blykins...tried the bolt on the tranny ears...no go.

I am afraid to break the casting. I applied a good amount of torque then stopped. I am going to take some more measurements...something is hanging up. BTW, I am using a bearing. The 31 spline dummy input shaft slides in like butter.
Steve
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Old 06-08-2007, 08:55 PM
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Steve,
Do you have an accurate caliper or even better a mike? Try measuring the diameter of the nose shaft of the transmission where it slides into the pilot bearing vs. the diameter of the nose shaft of the lineup tool you're using. Maybe the lineup shaft is worn from use and small enough to just slide in, where as the new input shaft is tighter? Just a guess but it can't take more than a minute to check if you happen to have the tools on hand. Sorry I can't be more helpful.
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Old 06-08-2007, 09:02 PM
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Use a threaded rod on the clutch fork to disengage the clutch (taking the pressure off the disc) and I'll bet it will slide the rest of the way in. Dummy shafts don't always get the disc aligned perfectly.
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Old 06-09-2007, 12:22 AM
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+1

I think JWD hit the nail on the head!

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Old 06-09-2007, 04:33 AM
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Default What bell housing?

Steve What bell housing are you using and was it centered on the crank? If you smooth the end of the trans with a belt sander, (round the nose) it should side in with a touch of grease. You may have the wrong pilot bearing if you are using a GM input shaft on the trans. Use 2 steel rods to hold the trans up and inline. It should slide in. If you need to wrench in the trans the last 1/2" the problem is the pilot bushing, and you will push it until it bottoms out in the crank, It may go in, it may not, You may have to get a small brake hone and clean it up on the inside. YOU WILL break the ears off the trans by wrenching it on with the 7/16 bolts. If you have alot of pressure on the pilot bearing you may wear out the crankshaft thrust bearing surface and the motor is short lived. This is why some guys do dry runs with the trans outside of the car before installing motor or trans. Rick Lake
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Old 06-09-2007, 04:54 AM
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Default Ok...I found the problem this morning after a sleepless night...

My mind was racing all night. This morning I sat down next to the engine and trans. and started measuring diameters and lengths of the trans., bell, pilot bearing etc. for the 5th time.

Here is what I discovered. The bearing retainer is too long and it is hitting the clutch disc hub. The bearing retainer is 4.48" long. I measured this distance from the trans. mounting surface to the end of the retainer. However, the distance from the bellhousing face to the clutch disc hub is only 4.20". The trans. cannot physically be mounted all the way home.

I ordered this trans. with the short input shaft specifically for an FE engine. I have a suspicion that a shorter bearing retainer is supposed to be used along with the shorter input shaft. It appears that the standard length bearing retainer was installed instead. I'm going to try and call Keisler today to verify this.

Thanks to all that responded with an effort to help.

Steve

Last edited by STEVE POTTS; 06-11-2007 at 09:23 AM..
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Old 06-09-2007, 06:21 AM
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Oh shoot Steve, that's it buddy.

When I swapped input shafts on my TKO, a new bearing retainer came with it. It's considerably shorter too.

That's it! Good thinkin.
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Old 06-09-2007, 06:32 AM
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could'nt the retainer just be shortened by the prescribed amount with a cutoff saw? 2 minute fix
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Old 06-09-2007, 06:33 AM
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I'm sure it could, but I think they usually chuck them up in a lathe and square them off.
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Old 06-09-2007, 06:57 AM
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Default I can chuck it up in the lathe at work...

on Monday and take off about a 1/2". I suppose that a rough cut would work just as well...but I'm not in that much of a hurry.
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Old 06-09-2007, 09:31 AM
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Modifying new parts is rarely the answer, IMO. Upon rare occasion, you'll find a new part that's flawed. But that's the exception rather than the rule.

Here's what I would do. Take everything apart, and fit the critical parts individually: Bellhousing, clutch disc, pilot bearing. You really need a carefull inspection and evaluation to make sure everything is exactly as it should be.

If the pilot bearing in the crankshaft hole was not put in properly, it will be slightly our of round. Not by much, like 0.5mm. That's enough to keep the trans from sliding in all the way.

The lip on the trans or the bellhousing could have a slight nick or gouge.

Also remember that everything has to be perfectly (and I do mean perfectly) aligned for it all to mesh. Get 4 pieces of all thread about 10-12" long, and screw them into the bellhousing-trans holes. Use them as a guide to slide the trans onto the bellhousing.
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Old 06-10-2007, 10:07 PM
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I changed to the short input shaft myself, but did not use a different length bearing retainer, and all is good,... FE with THO600.
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Old 06-11-2007, 05:45 AM
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Default Thats odd...

My bearing retainer measures exactly 4.48" long. But the distance from the bellhousing face to the disc hub is exactly 4.20". I am using a Mcleod disc part # 260873-R. It has the reverse hub for the 26 spline input shaft.

I'll find out from Keisler this morning what the official bearing retainer length should be when using the short shaft tremec.

Last edited by STEVE POTTS; 06-11-2007 at 09:22 AM..
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Old 06-11-2007, 06:24 AM
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Default Did you powder coat the scattershield?

I had a similar problem and thought all the worst but found that the powdercoating on the scattershield (I added the coating to change color and to cover the cut on the bottom) reduced the diameter of the opening that the transmission mounts to. A dremel tool and two times around the interior edge of the scattershield opening and all was well.
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Old 06-11-2007, 06:27 AM
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Default Official response from Keisler Engineering....

The bearing retainer should be 3.80" long when using the short input shaft. Somehow, they installed the wrong bearing retainer on my Transmission (Retainer length is 4.48")

Keisler responded well and said they would send me a new proper length retainer via next day service.

Last edited by STEVE POTTS; 06-11-2007 at 09:22 AM..
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Old 06-11-2007, 08:03 AM
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Here's a picture of my original long shaft, and original and current bearing retainer. I can't say for sure, but I believe only the very end of the input shaft was cut down to the right length. It sounds like you've got it under control.

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