remote oil filter and cooler route

[MaSnaka]

FE 390, melling HV oil pump, stock 5qt pan. I just want to make sure I have this right. From the bottom hole in the oil filter adapter on the engine block I go to the oil cooler. Is there a specific IN and OUT on the oil cooler? I don't know. From the oil cooler to the remote oil filter IN. Then from the oil filter OUT to the top hole on the engine block. Is there a way to screw this up so hot oil pressure is low (25psi). I just don't see any fluctuation in my pressure reading based on rpm's. 25 at idle...25 at 4500rpm. When cold for the first 15 minutes oil pressure is at 50 and then slowly drops to 25. Stays there whether I'm putting slow or on the fwy. I plan on upgrading to a bigger oil pan, but in the mean time is anything else wrong here? Any help will be appreciated, thanks.

John

[bkozlow]

I am not sure of your setup. Most remote filter systems work off an adapter that spins on to the to the present threaded oil filter fitting on the block. Are you running the old reuseable canister style where only the filter element is replaced and the canister bolts on with a center bolt? I must, admit that I am not as familiar with FE engines as the later families of Ford engines. If you were running a spin on disposable filter, some adapters use a threaded piece that is threaded on the inside also, to accept a specially drilled bolt that further secures the oil line adapter to the block. Look at Ford SVO part number M-6880-C50, combined with part # m-6880-S, HD oil filter mount. From there the two threaded holes are generally marked "IN" and "OUT". The out line is then run to the "IN" side of the remote filter adapter (it should be marked). The out line from the remote filter adapter is then run to the cooler. From there the out from the cooler goes to the "IN" on the adapter that is attached to the block.

The reason the filter is before the cooler is that in case of engine blowup metal pieces are caught in the filter and they do not clog and destroy the cooler.

Bill K

[Naumoff]

John,
I will find the diagram for the routing of the lines for you but first thing is you have a high volume oil pump with a stock pan. This pump will suck the pan dry as soon as you mash on the gas for your first blast.

[Naumoff]

I found it.

[Rick Parker]

I believe the above is courtesy of ERA's Website and should be so noted and credit given...........................

[Burgs]

http://www.clubcobra.com/classifieds...hp?product=373

[Naumoff]

Originally Posted by MaSnaka

FE 390, melling HV oil pump, stock 5qt pan. I just want to make sure I have this right. From the bottom hole in the oil filter adapter on the engine block I go to the oil cooler. Is there a specific IN and OUT on the oil cooler? I don't know. From the oil cooler to the remote oil filter IN. Then from the oil filter OUT to the top hole on the engine block. Is there a way to screw this up so hot oil pressure is low (25psi). I just don't see any fluctuation in my pressure reading based on rpm's. 25 at idle...25 at 4500rpm. When cold for the first 15 minutes oil pressure is at 50 and then slowly drops to 25. Stays there whether I'm putting slow or on the fwy. I plan on upgrading to a bigger oil pan, but in the mean time is anything else wrong here? Any help will be appreciated, thanks.

John

Bill is right to run the oil from the engine to the filter first. Oil coiler is just a heat exchanger and does not have an in and out.

You could be pumping your pan dry at an idle and there is not enough oil returning to it. What are the spec's on your engine. Solid or hydraulic cam? CI heads or Aluminum?

[Naumoff]

Originally Posted by Rick Parker

I believe the above is courtesy of ERA's Website and should be so noted and credit given...........................

I believe you are correct and if so then they should be thanked and given credit for the drawing. I did not get it from their website.

[Naumoff]

Originally Posted by Burgs

http://www.clubcobra.com/classifieds...hp?product=373

John, that is a good deal

[lineslinger]

Originally Posted by Rick Parker

I believe the above is courtesy of ERA's Website and should be so noted and credit given...........................

Rick, good call, I posted that same pic in an attempt to help someone else out and someone at ERA got in a real twist about it, I didn't realize it was their diagram, still, nice of Tony to post it.

MaSnaka,
If you are only showing 25 psi OP at 4500 rpm that engine will cook. There was a lengthy thread on this same plumbing issue just a few weeks back.
It turned out the owner had a pressure relief valve installed backwards. I will try to find the thread.

[Naumoff]

Originally Posted by lineslinger

Rick, good call, I posted that same pic in an attempt to help someone else out and someone at ERA got in a real twist about it, I didn't realize it was their diagram, still, nice of Tony to post it.

MaSnaka,
If you are only showing 25 psi OP at 4500 rpm that engine will cook. There was a lengthy thread on this same plumbing issue just a few weeks back.
It turned out the owner had a pressure relief valve installed backwards. I will try to find the thread.

That doesn't sound like ERA.

I will draw my own picture and scan it into my computer for the next guy that needs help. It is no big deal, I was just being lazy and not drawing it and scanning it and pulled it from another forum. Maybe we could get someone with Windows Paint skills to draw us one up.

[lineslinger]

Originally Posted by Naumoff

That doesn't sound like ERA.

I will draw my own picture and scan it into my computer for the next guy that needs help. It is no big deal, I was just being lazy and not drawing it and scanning it and pulled it from another forum. Maybe we could get someone with Windows Paint skills to draw us one up.

Tony,
I originally found it and copied off of this site, saved it for future usage and reposted it a year or so later.
And yes it was most assuredly someone from ERA as I spent the next hour typing my tail off trying to explain I was not trying to steal credit or someones else's drawing. The tizzy then turned to not giving due credit for the drawing, hell I didn't know it was "theirs"

MaSnaka,
I couldn't find the thread I spoke of but try a search for oil cooler plumbing or something like that.

[Naumoff]

That's cool Lineslinger. I can understand that. I apologize. For what I am told that oil line drawing in the above post is from the ERA website and it is an excellent drawing.
Here is my diagram of the oil cooler lines for a FE.

[MaSnaka]

Thanks guys! I am trying to aquire the larger pan asap. My plumbing is definetly going to the cooler first and the filter last before returning to the engine. Do you think this would this affect oil pressure?

Next on the running the pan dry issue- If I park and let the engine rest for say 30 minutes, I still have 25 psi. on restart. I would think oil would return to the pan while the engine is off and if so I should regain a higher psi until the pump is sucking air again. Also I have looked at the oil on the dip stick after a drive and it appears normal (no bubbles).

Thanks for your drawings, and the lead on the pan for sale, most helpful! I just hope it's still available.

John

[Rick Parker]

There was a Canton FE pan for a good price in the ads on this site just a few (2-4) days ago) $150.00 (?)


http://www.clubcobra.com/classifieds...hp/product/708

[bkozlow]

Just a point to remember, whatever pan you purchase make sure you have the matching oil pump pickup tube. A lot of people sell used pans and only the pan, you need both or you will have to fabricate a new pickup.

Bill K