A little NOS

[jimmymac]

I've been considering running nos lines under my intakes, in the valley. Has anyone done this? Would it be to hot? I know it would be a pain to rejet. Pulling intake an all. But the results!! Maybe the sportsman fogger system. I have the stock dual plane and the tunnelwedge intakes.port matched. MSD timing retard allready installed.

[496fe]

There are lots of muuuuuuch easier ways to make NOS work. It sounds like you are considering the port nozzle approach. Those are great for legit race cars who are looking for dual-stage 400 Hp shots. I don't know how much power you want to add, but the spray plate that fits under the caburetor is a long-tested and popular way to do it. Jets are easy to change though I'm not sure why you would be changing them very often.

I just added a 150 hp shot to my FE and it is now making 720 Hp. It is smooth, predictable power and I highly recommend nitrous. It is unbelievably cheap horsepower, and a well-built FE bottom end will live just fine.

Welcome to the wonderful world of gases.

Brian

[jdog]

Brian, I have been playing around with the idea for quite awhile. Please tell me more about it.

Which kit did you use? Any suprises?

Anything special about an fe installation I should know?

I have a bored & stroked 66' sideoiler making 603hp. A 150 kit might just be something fun to have, how does 750hp sound?

Brian, did you install it yourself?

Thanks
jdog

[496fe]

jdog,

I pasted this reply from another thread:
496fe....If you go for the carb plate set up there are a few things you may consider to make life easier. First of course take 2 degrees out for each 50HP which can be easily done with an MSD Retard Box for about $129. This box only retards your timing ( uses MSD Chips) when you spray...not before . Once the solenoids are activated it instantly sends a signal to your MSD. It's instant retard ONLY when you need it. The other item I use is a RPM Window Box for $99. I cannot use nitrous in 1st/2nd so I have mine set to go on at 4000rpm and shut off at 6100rpm. I shift at 6200rpm. When I hit 3rd I hit the spray . The nitrous lets off at only 100rpm below my shift light. You can make it ON the shift light but but not above as using this safety precaution you will never over rev ( gear miss) on the nitrous. The third thing I did was install a Hurst Roll Control Line Lock momentary switch directly on my stick ($20) just below the shift knob. This works in conjuction with the WOT micro switch AT THE CARB. This BUTTON only activates the juice if 1) The system is ON or armed. 2) the carb is at WOT . Using the Hurst Roll Control Button allows me to go wide open in 1st and 2nd WITH the nitrous system armed but,
thanks to the MSD Retard Box ,at FULL TIMING. Once I hold the button with my ring finger timing is instantly retarded and she's waiting for the spray !
Last but not least is a Purge Kit ( $99). This allows you to press a button under the dash at ANY TIME to purge all the air out of the nitrous lines. Having a 1-2-3 second delay sucks. By purging the air out the nitrous is right there ready to jump. My little micro purge line exits at the base of the windshield ( just push it through) drivers side right next to the side mirror.
When I purge it the white spray shoots up and out 45 degrees from behind the mirror ( I angled the cut in the line) and folks go nuts at the lights !
I also invested in a heater Blanket for $129. This keeps your bottle at the right temps in any weather for the right psi. The heater is not needed on 80-90 days but that is only short term where I live. Last.....truly last...is a fuel Pressure Cut Off ( $29) installed in the fuel line that feeds the nitrous plate. If for some silly reason fuel pressure drops below 5.5psi the switch interupts the nitrous system ground and does not spray. All told I invested about $850 for all above , Edelbrock 70001 carb kit included. I know 3 Cobras running nitrous beside my own. One is a 392 stroker FFR with 100Hp. The other is a Classic Roadster 351W FMS crate motor with big heads at 125 HP nitrous. The other is a Classic Roadster 440HP running a 100 shot. My 351W makes 420rwhp with 11:1C on 93 octane . It made 503rwhp next pull on a steamy hot day with 75HP jets !! I went to 100HP early last season and used it a lot. To be honest 100Hp was a bit crazy for me so I droped it down for this season to 75Hp. But...something tells me I will go back to the good ole
100's!!
Hope this helps . Good Luck .....Jam

This setup works well on FE's also. If you are hood-challenged, you might want to install the spray bars directly IN the manifold - some pictures are in my gallery. One last thing... the weakest link is going to be traction. I think the MT drag radials might do the trick. I have a ladder bar rear end, which does a good job of transferring weight to the rear wheels. You also want taller gearing - minumum of 3.55:1. Without this attention to traction, all you'll do is spin the tires, and as many people on this forum will tell you, striking the tires halfway through second gear and into third is no fun . The FE is a great nitrous platform because the power is so broad and prdictable.

Good luck.

Brian