Main Menu
|
Nevada Classics
|
Advertise at CC
|
November 2024
|
S |
M |
T |
W |
T |
F |
S |
|
|
|
|
|
1 |
2 |
3 |
4 |
5 |
6 |
7 |
8 |
9 |
10 |
11 |
12 |
13 |
14 |
15 |
16 |
17 |
18 |
19 |
20 |
21 |
22 |
23 |
24 |
25 |
26 |
27 |
28 |
29 |
30 |
|
CC Advertisers
|
|
03-02-2008, 08:42 PM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Blitchton Ga,
Ga
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance aluminum427
Posts: 188
|
|
Not Ranked
Blown Head Gasket
I have a SPC with a 427 Shelby Block stroked to a 484 with Eldeblock aluminum heads with studs instead of bolts does anybody know if you can take the heads off in the car, or do I have to pull the motor. Its the passenger side.
|
-
Advertising
03-02-2008, 10:49 PM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Dec 2001
Location: San Diego,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 2,979
|
|
Not Ranked
I seriously doubt you will be able to take the heads off without removing the engine. Look at the heads and figure on pulling them straight out about 5 inches to clear the studs. You'll be well into the fender by that point.
__________________
Remember, It's never too early to start beefing up your obituary.
|
03-03-2008, 03:20 AM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2004
Location: Rolla,
MO
Cobra Make, Engine: Shell Valley, '67 Cobra, 1966 427 sideoiler, 2x4s, w/NASCAR toploader
Posts: 126
|
|
Not Ranked
Head Gasket
I had the same problem with the left side 3 years ago. Pulled the engine. You might be able to pull the right side head in the car, but personaly I wouldn't try. I decided to just pull the engine and use the occasion to detail everything. Even replaced a few gaskets while it was out and on the engine stand. Good luck. Bob
|
03-03-2008, 04:05 AM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Virginia Beach, Va & Port Charlotte, Fl.,
Posts: 2,283
|
|
Not Ranked
Pull the studs from the block, then pull the head(s).. Are the studs allen head?
I made a stainless steel stud kit for the intake on my Pond 482. I have to do the same thing (for a different reason) to pull the intake.
Just curious, how do you know it's a blown head gasket?
Dave
__________________
Too many toys?? never!
Last edited by undy; 03-03-2008 at 04:07 AM..
|
03-03-2008, 06:12 AM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA,
Posts: 3,841
|
|
Not Ranked
Snap-on or matco make a stud remover
flipscobra Snap-on or Matco make a stud remover socket for your problem. If not,try matco. I think Sears only goes to 1/2" and the studs are 5/8" or 11/16" size. If not you can always lift the head with a small block of wood and remove the stubs with a vicegrip or double nut the tops. Try not to damage the studs. Some studs have allen head tops, Mine didn't. Other wise it's motor pull time. This may be the best way. This will give you time to check the wholw motor over. How did the head gasket blow?? The L/S should get replaced too, IMO. They where both installed at the same time. This might save another repair or pulling the motor again deal. Rick L.
|
03-03-2008, 09:55 AM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jan 2004
Location: Wayne,
NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: Contemporary 482 all aluminum Tunnelport Self built and owned since 1980 frame#0000017 and owner of frame CCX 33961 looking for an FIA body to go with it
Posts: 428
|
|
Not Ranked
I am not an expert at the Shelby block or the SPC but I do believe that the studs go down into the block Which will make thema good 8 or so inches longer than regular studs. I can't pull the heads or the back studs off my Contemporary the a Cleveland. I end up leaving the back one in with the nuts on them and pulling the head with the stud hanging in it. With the longer studs of the Shelby block I would say its motor pulling time.
Rich C.
__________________
Cobrarich
|
03-03-2008, 02:34 PM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: Rochester,
NY
Cobra Make, Engine: ac/428 pi
Posts: 64
|
|
Not Ranked
double nut the stud with 2 thiner nuts and remove the studs
|
03-03-2008, 08:35 PM
|
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 1999
Location: Livermore,CA,
Ca
Cobra Make, Engine: Arntz/Bennett, FE with lots of shinny parts that make it go fast
Posts: 906
|
|
Not Ranked
Another vote for "just pull the motor". We pulled the motor out of one of our local Superformance's (SPF) in about 3hrs with hand tools last month. My experiance has been sometimes you spend less time and aggravation just pulling the whole thing out rather than trying to work around things ......IMO.
good luck,
Mike
|
03-03-2008, 09:41 PM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Blitchton Ga,
Ga
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance aluminum427
Posts: 188
|
|
Not Ranked
Thanks guys for the info. As to how do I know its blown, is you can hear it. An you can see a little oil coming out between the head an the block. Its been leaking oil there for about 3 months, I should have retorqued the heads then but didnt, dont think you can retorque them with the motor in the car. Thought about undoing the motor mounts an shifting the motor to the drivers side, an then pulling the head. Has anybody tried that.
|
03-03-2008, 09:46 PM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2007
Location: Blitchton Ga,
Ga
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance aluminum427
Posts: 188
|
|
Not Ranked
I have another question, when yall pulled your motor on your SPF did you cut it loose at the bell housing or the transmission.
|
03-04-2008, 06:16 AM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: E BRUNSWICK N.J. USA,
Posts: 3,841
|
|
Not Ranked
Bell housing is easier
flipscobra Unbolt the bell housing and install a jack under the trans to lift it up alittle when pulling the motor. Make sure you have the car on jack stands. Heavy rap the frontend of the car with moving blankets to protect the paint. I missed the shelby block thing, I have gotten the head off in the car, but it was a real pain in the a$$. Pull the motor and do both sides. What head gaskets are you using?? Felpro #1020's. I have not had to retorque them after running the motor. I do run Hi-tac on both sides of the gaskets. I also do step torqueing of the head studs, and let sit for 5 minutes before doing the next torquing step. That Aluminium motor is going to move about.0015" with ever heat cycle. Over time you will get leaks. This is why I use sprays on the headgeaskets and surfaces and RTV on all other sealing surfaces. Go luck. Rick L.
|
03-04-2008, 10:03 AM
|
CC Member
|
|
|
Join Date: Jun 2006
Location: Calgary,
AB
Cobra Make, Engine: Butler Racing/427 side oiler
Posts: 371
|
|
Not Ranked
Pulled my 427 plenty of times already ..its really quite easy ..couple tough things but once its done youll be happy you did ...WAY easier to work on things like that
|
Posting Rules
|
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts
HTML code is Off
|
|
|
All times are GMT -7. The time now is 12:46 AM.
|