Question? Ford 427 sideoiler service block

[Michael C Henry]

Are the any of threaded bolt holes, lower thermostst or right side coolant to block, open to crank case or oil passage? As seen from below, I have oil showing on the right coolant pump to block boss. I'm working with flashlight and mirrors. I don't see oil in the famous corner of head-manifold-block, I do not see any oil trying to run around the pump boss as if it were from above.
Now I need to wait for everything to cool to remove any pressure from the coolant system. I'll try the bolts on the coolant pump, one at a time, looking for oil residue and then dope the bolt threads and reinstall If that isn't it, I don't know. Prieviously I was blaming the valve cover gaskets, used the neoprene with steel reinforcement gaskets what disappointment to find it's still leaking somewhere else.

[427 S/O]

Yes, I believe it's on the left side facing engine, you can see into the lifter valley. I use studs and one sholders on the block.

[Michael C Henry]

After removing the surge tank and looking (probing) at the space between the block and intake manifold , there is a small oil mess there. At this time I'll blame myself for not checking the gue better ( front and rear ) . I may have a small void just to the middle above the right coolant pump to block flange. I've cleaned with brake clean and reapplied blue RTV. If that doesn't get it, I'll remove the intake manifold (again) and all that . Another set of gaskets, readjust rockers again, but may have manifold milled a little to make up for previous milling on heads. I have the car up on jack stands in car skates. I have the jack stand supports front on frame tubes at trans and rear swaybar, and tires are about 20" off floor. I can see from under but getting in and out are now compromised. I have to get a step to work over the side.

[427 S/O]

Just remove the bolt and apply a lot of RTY, that should sole the problem. It's only one bolt.

[427 S/O]

Typing too fast, but you get the message.........

[Woodz428]

In answer to your original question, although it seems that you've found your leak to be the under manifold area, the holes around the water pump go into the cooling jackets and not the lifter valley as was stated. Any oil leaking would have to come from elsewhere, which you seemed to have already figured out.

[RICK LAKE]

Michael C Henry Mike any coolant bolt should have teflon sealant on the threads. Any bolt that goes into a wet location on the block, head bolts, water pump bolts, intake bolts, nipples for coolant. I also add a thin coat of sealant where the bolt seats. Some RTV will break down over time and start to leak from that hole. If the nipple is going in for life I use black pipe sealant and let it setup for 24 hours. I have never gotten a leak from that location again. You will also need to add about 5lbs more torque to get to spec because of the drag of the sealant on the threads in the hole. REMOVE and extra that may squeeze out from torqueing. Rick L.

[Michael C Henry]

It was the front manifold to block just above the right coolant pump to block flange..I had the surge tank removed and had a pick with a right angle tip. I could feel the edges of block and manifold and could feel the areas where the RTV was not even with the outside of the block up to the intake manifold. I cleaned the area with brake clean and applied more RTV in two seperate passes with my finger. That stopped the oil ,Next problem was the thermostat gasket. New gasket and it leaked had to take a second pass at that again but seemed to have it stopped now. Some of the thermostat gaskets available are just crap. Need to find a source for quality thermostat gaskets now. Not something I want to look for when that is all I need to get the car up and running.

[RICK LAKE]

Michael C. Henry Mike I know on having to remove coatings they suck. Also that some of the gasket makers like Fel-Pro say not to use, I don't listen. I use Hi-Tac on all my head gaskets, both sides even the ones with the RTV embossed on them. I loc-tite all my bolts and studs. All my nuts are aircraft polylocs, grade 8 or higher. Any wet location hole, (waterpump, intake manifold, surge tank, or oil plugs) get teflon paste on the threads to stop seeping. Auto zone and Pep-boys sell sheets of gasket paper. I use the thick black stuff for all gaskets and hi-tac. All you need is the orginial gasket to pencil on the paper and cut out with a knife or razor blade. I use cork on the valve covers only and glue them to the valve covers with GM adhesive spray for weatherstrips. I tighten the valve covers down to 12 inch pounds on a 1/4" torque wrench and 1/8 turn after. no leaks from doing it this way You need to let all RTV's, Spray's, even loctite 24 hours to dry and set unless you can't. Alot of leaks happen from not doing this. The valve covers are the only thing that I remove from the motor more than once. See your machinist may not have had your manifold to check angles between block and heads, heads and manifolds, bottom of intake manifold and top of valley between cylinder banks. It's an easy thing to over look and causes a ton of problems after assembly. Those cheap angle measures are great for checking the head to manifold. I have seen 0 clearance on the top and 1/8" air gap on the bottom, and the motor is in the car already. O-BOY. Double gaskets glued togeather do work with a low pressure coolant system. About 5-7 psi anything more and you have cream in your motor and say bye-bye to the bearings. Use sprays on gaskets and only GRAY RTV on the other parts and let dry. Rick L.

[427 S/O]

Correct, I was thinking of the timing cover.........