Need to Replace 427 FE Block - What should I do

[Scott Hatcher]

I recently blew-up a piston in my 427 FE center oiler. The piston is in multiple pieces (none of which is bigger than a nickle), bent the connecting rod and put a 2 1/2" hole in the cylinder wall.

The majority of the time the Cobra is on the street (+/- 95%). I track it out at Purhump (outside Las Vegas) and Willow Springs 4 or 5 times a year.

I'd like to keep the re-build under $10,000., but don't know if that is possible and still be able to put the Cobra on the track a few times a year.

It's time to rebuild but I have a few questions and need your help:
1. If I can't sleeve the cylinder, do I go aluminum or cast iron block.
2. If aluminum block, is a Pond or Genesis better?
3. If aluminum block, can I still use my iron heads and intake?
4. If not, what heads should I use?
5. If cast iron, do I use a junk yard block or use Genesis iron block?
6. What crankshaft, rods and pistons should I use?
7. Or is it better to start over with a crate motor?

What are some of your opinions?

[767Jockey]

If the rest of the block is still in good shape, I'd sleeve it. It's cheap, and you know the block, why not keep using it?

[xracerbob]

Since your car see's some track duty, I would go for the aluminum block. Keith Craft has a great deal on machined Pond blocks for under $5K. Who does the machining is pretty important, and given his experience with these, I think its a very safe bet. If your rotating assembly (with new pistons) is in good shape, I would get a set of Keiths stage 2 heads to go with the block and you would still be under $10K.

This would take about 140 lbs off the front and make a big improvement in handling.

[Clois Harlan]

Sleve it if you can and get your bottom end built up strong enough to handle the tracking. If that is not a possibility then I would go with Keith Craft also if that is what you want to do. However, the next block I buy will be a stroked 408 small block. I like those RPM's and much over 6500 kills most FE's (I have killed two so far).

Clois

[RodKnock]

It would be very difficult to get any FE crate engine for $10,000 or less. My personal opinion is to get new parts (block, heads, etc) and forget the old stuff. If prudently purchased, the new stuff is better built and engineered than the old stuff. However, there are many people who prefer the old versus the new.

[Dwight]

Keith Craft



Dwight

[xlr8or]

Pick up a Genesis Iron block and Scat rotating assy. Combine that with a set of KC heads and you are around 8K. Add valvetrain and you are done.

[PANAVIA]

--at this point are you sure you want to keep beating on antiques>?--- the small block 402/427 strokers are a compelling argument, and if you blow one up, replenishment parts are never far away.

[Keithc8]

I have a few questrions for you about your engine. What intake are you using on the engine? What water pump, damper, distributor and wires, valve covers, carburetor and valve train? Is the oil pan any good after the parts broke?
Pond aluminum block with a Scat or Eagle cast steel crankshaft, Scat I-beam rods, Diamond pistons, rings, bearings, zero balance, hydraulic roller camshaft, hydraulic roller lifters, Ford racing double roller timing set and assemble short block for 8000.00. If we add our stage 2 heads complete, Comp Cams Pushrods, gaskets, Melling oil pump and assemble the rest of the engine complete using the rest of your parts add 3500.00. This would be using your oil pan, front cover, damper sleeve, damper, intake, valve covers, distributor and wires, water pump with your carburetor. Dyno test and tune including the oil, filter, fuel and plugs for 600.00. This would give you an all aluminum 482C. I. FE engine for about 12,100.00 give or take a little depneding on what you have.
You can get something for your block and I can even sleeve it right and try to help you sell it on E-bay or here plus you can sell the heads that you have so you might get back close to the 10,000.00 that you want to spend.
Just let us know if we can help and feel free to call us at 870-246-7460.

Thanks, Keith Craft

[FWB]

i have a spare block fresh .03 over with pistons, rods and crank if interested
email me

[Scott Hatcher]

Thank you all for your reponses... It has helped!

Kieth,
To answer your questions,
1. I have the cast iron intake.
2. Stock water pump.
3. Complete MSD ignition including distributor, coil, box and wires (installed three months ago). Got rid of the Duraspack system.
4. Aluminum valve covers.
5. Holley 750 carb (not the HP).
6. I'm not sure on the valves but we did install a Dove aluminum roller rocker last year.
7. The Canton oil pan is still good.
8. The alternator and March pulleys are still good.
9. The fuel pump is mechanical.
10. The oil filter is remote. I also have an Accusump (3 Qt.) system.

What would it take to ship back to you all of the good parts for you to assemble the engine. Also would it be better to install a new aluminum intake and water pump?
What is the shipping cost to get it back to Las Vegas?

Thanks for your help!!
Scott

[gjcomb]

Scott;

Here's another contact you might want to consider and discuss your engine concerns:

Chris Dawkins
Dawkins Engineering
Monterey, CA
Email: Chris995@aol.com
831-394-1483

He is currently do a rebuild on my side oiler and sleeving the cylinders since it is an old block since I refused to go with a new system.

Chris is also completing a rebuild on a buddy of mine's Shelby 427 aluminum engine that he purchased from good ol' Shelby Enterprises in Las Vegas - the engine cost him a lot of $$ and ran only for about 3500 miles before one of the head gaskets went South (by the way, no support from the Shelby factory on answering questions). It will be a screamer when completed shortly.

Chris has also done a ton of big block engines (Chevy and Ford) and done some interesting vintage cars (i.e., Mac Archer's 427 Cobra) and exotics (Ferraris, Porsches).

Give him a call (recommend) or send him an email (his emails are short!) and let him know that I mentioned you to him.
George

[Keithc8]

Scott I would think that you could send the parts out for about 150.00 with UPS if that much. We could look at using your rocker arm system. I would go with an Edelbrock Performer RPM intake and an Edelbrock aluminum water pump. They will run about 450.00 extra but will work better for sure. The crating and shipping back to you will run in the 500.00 range but there is no sales tax when we ship out of state and that is normaly more than the shipping in most places. Feel free to give me a call at 870-246-7460 if you would like to discuss your project more. Thanks, Keith