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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2008, 09:29 AM
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nudder thing.....

Most fan manufacturers rate their fan CFMs above battery voltage. Spal, as listed here, rate theirs @ 13.0 volts. I believe Flex-a-Lite rates theirs even higher. If you have an "undersized" alternator that goes into discharge at idle then your electric fan isn't providing it's rated CFM. If you're driving the typical "cooling challenged" Cobra, that's not a good thing. With everything on my alternator provides a constant 14 volts, at the battery OR the fan. If your car's wiring "infrastructure" is also inadequate, which a LOT are, then the problem's compounded. With your car running, at idle, run a voltage test at the cooling fan. A lot of people would be suprised. With my Lone Star's painless harness and provided 65 amp alternator I was getting 10.2 volts to my cooling fan till I rewired the whole circuit.

Dave

http://www.spalusa.com/fans/automate.../1516-1517.pdf
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 07-29-2008, 12:45 PM
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Guy's, I think that that kind of draw is normal.These motors are running pretty decent cams and as such don't make much torque at idle. The fans that everyone seems to run today also draw a lot....wow..earthquake right now.. . The best would be to increase your idle speed ..to compensate for the cam..not the fan. or the alternator. My motor drops 200 rpm when the fans turn on,and it has never worried me.You could probably find one of those devices from the 70...called an "idle-up" control which just opens a solenoid that lets a little air into the intake to increase idle..very simple..one wire

Last edited by CHANMADD; 07-29-2008 at 12:59 PM..
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