Keith Craft Inc.- We service what we sell!!! Check out our Cobra engines!!! We build high performance racing engines and components for the fast pace strip racing industry as well as daily drivers who want to be FIRST!!!

FE Forums sponsored by Keith Craft Inc.


Go Back   Club Cobra > Engine Building, Tuning, and Induction > FE TALK

Welcome to Club Cobra!  The World's largest non biased Shelby Cobra related site!

  •  » Representation from nearly all Cobra/Daytona/GT40 manufacturers
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and nearly 1 million posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

Keith Craft Racing
Nevada Classics
MMG Superformance
Main Menu
Nevada Classics
Nevada Classics
Keith Craft Racing
Advertise at CC
Banner Ad Rates
MMG Superformance
Keith Craft Racing
MMG Superformance
October 2024
S M T W T F S
    1 2 3 4 5
6 7 8 9 10 11 12
13 14 15 16 17 18 19
20 21 22 23 24 25 26
27 28 29 30 31    

Kirkham Motorsports

Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Rate Thread Display Modes
  #21 (permalink)  
Old 08-20-2008, 11:02 AM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Apr 2007
Cobra Make, Engine: # 757 ERA 427 SC , 482 Al. big block
Posts: 896
Not Ranked     
Default

If it were mine , I would replace both needle valves and also check the floats to make sure that don`t have a leak/pinhole in them . The fuel today deteriorates fairly quickly and forms varnish if left sitting for any period of time . I had the front carb on my 427 Galaxie do just that last week . Took the float needle valve out and let it soak in lacquer thinner for several hours , checked it for free action and reinstalled ( they were new as of this spring ). Engine ran fine . Same symptoms you had ... the car started fine , started running rough , cleared up some and then wouldn`t start and plugs showed wet .
I don`t drive the Galaxie that much anymore and the fuel sits in the carb and causes problems over time .
Jegs and Summitt both have aftermarket float needle valves from folks like Barry Grant etc that are good quality ... try not to use something from one of the discount autoparts houses as their quality can be suspect .
I couldn`t tell from your postings if the carbs were Holly or not , but if you had a backfire , you might want to replace the power valves ... if leaking , they can give you a fit . Adjust the float levels with the engine running or you will get a false reading .

Good luck.
Reply With Quote
  #22 (permalink)  
Old 08-22-2008, 08:28 AM
Archrms's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Jersey Shore, NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance SPF#2572, 427 S/O 2X4
Posts: 379
Not Ranked     
Default

Car now starts fine and idles, but now lags when accelerator is initially pushed, and then catches up. Also has some backfire on deceleration, which it never had before. Float level are right at the bottom of the sights, where it laps out due to engine vibration, but is not a constant stream.

Its getting closer, but still needs some fine tuning. Any suggestions on what is causing and how to eliminate these latest issues?
__________________
Peace through superior firepower...or is it horsepower? Either way, more is always better!
Reply With Quote
  #23 (permalink)  
Old 09-05-2008, 12:59 PM
Archrms's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Location: Jersey Shore, NJ
Cobra Make, Engine: Superformance SPF#2572, 427 S/O 2X4
Posts: 379
Not Ranked     
Default

Finally gave up and took the car to a real carb expert. He found multiple problems caused by the initial "expert" that tweaked my carbs, including at least one blown power valve, damaged needle/seats, and incorrect float adjustments. Both carbs were taken off, and new parts installed and adjusted. Car now starts right up, and runs fine. I only lost about four weeks of driving time - Never again.

Lesson learned: Never let another touch your car, unless you are absolutely sure he is qualified.

Thanks to all who submitted suggestions. It seems that there were just too many issues to overcome, requiring the carbs to be stripped back down to start at zero again to ensure all was correct.
__________________
Peace through superior firepower...or is it horsepower? Either way, more is always better!
Reply With Quote
  #24 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2008, 11:40 AM
RAO-3's Avatar
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Central, NC
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #775
Posts: 324
Not Ranked     
Default

Great to hear that it's back on the road again!

Ray
Reply With Quote
  #25 (permalink)  
Old 09-08-2008, 11:46 AM
patrickt's Avatar
Half-Ass Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Cobra Make, Engine: ERA #732, 428FE (447 CID), TKO600, Solid Flat Tappet Cam, Tons of Aluminum
Posts: 21,992
Not Ranked     
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
Now don't let that friend near your Cobra again, except to test the temperature of your sidepipes with the back of his calf.
I stand by my previous post.
Reply With Quote
  #26 (permalink)  
Old 09-12-2008, 10:05 AM
CC Member
Visit my Photo Gallery

 
Join Date: Mar 1999
Location: TACOMA, WA
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett Morrision FE 427 so 2-4s
Posts: 2,025
Not Ranked     
Default

I've had a friend in 69 that his original 390 wouldn't resart when leaving a grocery store. I pulled the plug wire and it had spark so I went on to other sources. Someone else figured it out . It had a points distributer. The condenser was giving up. It would work just long enough for me to see it spark once or twice then quit. I bought a coil condenser tester and have used it ,maybe , twise since. Also had my Cobra replica quit at a traffic light, turned out to be a bad conection between the glass fuse and contactson the glass fuse holder. Seems something is allways causing problems, but you can usually fix them.
Also any back fire or the like can damage the powervalve problem. and if you are using a original points distributor and coil , they use a lower voltage (resister) for running, and straight 12V for starting. Ford used a starting solenoid that has two small terminals one terminal was from the trigger or switch, the other terminal was the resister bypass for starting. Coil ran off resisted power when running and received full 12V when starting. Some cars had a ceramic ballast resister inline, and some years used a longer length of wire folded back and forth in the wire harness to get the desired resistance ( I parted out a 61), and some used a special wire with a higher resistance to supply the coil (pink as I remember).
If the wire that normally supplied power to the coil were seperated from power from the ignition switch source ( blown fuse ,broken or disconnected wire terminal, bad wire,etc. and yes the ceramic balast resisters can burn out and break), the engine would try to fire when cranking but but would stop when the switch was released. Do you have an original points distributor and coil, and what type of resistor are you using?
__________________
Mike H

Last edited by Michael C Henry; 09-12-2008 at 03:18 PM..
Reply With Quote
Reply



Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -7. The time now is 06:29 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: CC Policy