Thinking about using an electric water pump...Questions though.

[Brent Mills]

I'm running an FE in an RCR GT40 and thinking of going with a remote electric water pump to give more firewall clearance, cooling after turnoff, etc.


Questions though:

• Anyone have pictures/instructions of similar install?
• On an FE pump there's a crossover tube that goes to the manifold. What is that for and do I just run a positive feed line to it or what?
• What are the pitfalls to this?

Thanks for your input.

[PatBuckley]

I ran one in my Kirkham -

Pitfalls: I had mine switched - so I needed to remember to turn it on.

That hose from the intake to the waterpump is a bypass past the t-stat. I have run without that with no ill effects, just make sure to bleed the system properly.

Pat

[Brent Mills]

Thanks Pat. Did you run a remote pump? If so, what did you use to connect to the block? I didn't find premade units, but figure I can fab something up. If there are premade ones, I probably would just order them to save time.

[convincor]

I wouldn't not run the bypass. With out it the would be no circulation with-in the engine until the thermostat opens. This will cause hot spots and pump cavitation.
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/cooling-system2.htm

http://www.woodyg.com/fairlane/finfo...ngsystem4.html
"Water Pump By-pass Hoses"
The water pump by pass hose connects the water pump to a fitting on or near the thermostat housing. Coolant may flow in either direction through the by pass hose, depending on rpm and degree of open of the thermostat. When an engine starts cold, before the thermostat begins to open, coolant moves through the engine with out an exit route. We know that we want the coolant to stay in the engine block until fully warmed, but some coolant must circulate. If stagnant, unable to circulate, localized areas in the cylinder heads can boil coolant then super heat it and cause metal failure. The by-pass hose offers a partial escape route for coolant to circulate back through the engine while the closed thermostat will not allow it into the radiator."

[PatBuckley]

I did not run a remote pump, Brent.

As for the bypass hose - I drilled a small hole in the t-stat.

[FWB]

circulating coolant when engine is off wouldn't do much without fans also running in off mode, this may be enough to deaden a battery and leave you sit.
i have only run the electric pumps with drag cars not on the street. the csr's are the easiest to deal with. but the electrical aspect is some thing to consider. i had to beef up the alternator to handle msd's appetite and the distance to the trunk didn't help either. with the added useage of fans and a water pump on battery only seems like it could pose a drain on battery.

[trularin]

If someone has not suggested it, may I suggest a thermal activated relay with a manual over ride.

Saves the pump at the beginning and can be forced on if necessary.

You will must likely need to improve your amperage output of the alternator as FWB has mentioned. A simple move to the Police alternator may be enough. I think that would be going from 65 Amps to 105 Amps.

You may want to improve the carrier wire from the alternator to the battery from #10 to #8 or a little larger.

Just my $0.02 worth.

[Brent Mills]

Thanks for all of the input fellas. Much appreciated.

[vector1]

if you're gonna up the alternator you might as well go 130-140 range and up the charge wire. could be efi in your future.

too bad there isn't a way to run dual water pumps in case one crapped.