Rear Main Seal

[sparks]

Whats involved in changing the rear main seal if a iron 427so ? And if to much is involved to someone w/o a lift or anything,what would the avg. mechanic charge to fix it thanks...............

[patrickt]

You can do it without removing the engine or trans from the car and that is a common thread on www.fordfe.com -- here's one, for example: http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182...ap+in+the+car- But you know you that FEs are notorious for having leaks that look like rear seals and in fact are not. Are you absolutely 100% sure it needs a new seal?

[sparks]

havnt seen it yet in person. What is the other possibility it can be??? Better or worse.? The person who owns the car has a good knowlage of cobras...Its not my car .

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by sparks

havnt seen it yet in person. was is the other possibility it can be??? Better or worse.?

It could be something as easy and simple as a valve cover gasket, or the intake manifold gasket, or maybe even the plugs on the back of the block, or maybe even something worse. For some reason people jump to the conclusion that it's the rear seal. Sometimes it is, but more often it's not. Since it's not your car yet, you might want to have it resolved before you buy the car.

[sparks]

The current owner seems to be a strait up guy. If it was a valve cover, intake gasket i am very sure he would know . What do you think it would (est)cost to have a mech do a seal???

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by sparks

The current owner seems to be a strait up guy. If it was a valve cover, intake gasket i am very sure he would know . What do you think it would (est)cost to have a mech do a seal???

If you were around the Capital area it would only cost you the seal and some refreshments, as the guys in the Capital Area Cobra Club tend to do that stuff for recreation. It's less than a full day's work -- maybe $500? But that's only a guess.

[sparks]

Or a case ob beer and 1 1/2 days work. Whats the deal w/the leaks? You would think for what these cost that leaks would be a minimum.

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by sparks

You would think for what these cost that leaks would be a minimum.

I used to fly F-15 Eagles, they cost $35 mil and they leak. You could always find someone local to you to estimate the repair then let your seller decide which way he wants to handle. When repairs are involved during a transaction, I like having the work done on my end so I know it gets done and I have someone to contact if the work fails later.

[MaSnaka]

I fixed my main rear seal twice and the leak never went away. I later found it to be a valve cover and intake problem. Now that's resolved I think it's the transmission leaking. Chasing leaks not fun but satisfying to solve. I would adjust your offer to compensate for your efforts but don't expect it to be a perfect calculation. There is always a risk and even if there are no leaks they can show up after you buy. Like Patrick said it could even be worse. Have a mechanic take a look and give you his opinion.

Good luck,
John

[CHRIS DAMSCH]

Sparks,

Where is Caledonia? The WCCC loves to have beverages and tackle problems like this. There are a bunch of us with lifts also. Just ask, we'll be more than happy to give you a hand with a lift, tools, moral support, drinking buddy, and even mechanical help.

Don't be shy, you will meet a bunch of great guys in the process that love everything about these cars.

[poboy427]

Anyone have any personal experience with the florescent die that can be added to oil to help detect the origin of the leak problem better.

I have not used any but I can say that the bellhousing can be the lowest part of a Cobra. I had leaks at the back of the manifold and a rear plug at the top rear seeping. I keep my oil changed very regular-more than I should-and the "fresh oil", champaign in color, can be very hard to follow. At any point any oil coming our of the rear area of the intake will eventually pool at the bottom bolt up area of the scattershield and look very much like a rear main problem or rear seal of the pan.

Unbolt the engine plate a little and wedge a screw driver in between the plate and the scattershield and with a penlight see if there is any oil dripping or collecting within the scattershield.

I realize that you may not have the opportunity do do all this as the car is not yours yet.

Lastly, my leaks did not seem to appear when the car was idling. When I stood on it the oil would seep out theback of intake and trace amounts would work its way out of the plug at the rear of the block just below the intake. I have a Shelby block and not a SO.

My point is these two leaks together would lay down a spot in the garage large enough that I sure thought it was a rear main at first glance.

[sparks]

By I-90 and Genoa road....just east of rockford. Where its still legal to shoot hand guns in my back yard..(away from neighbors house).

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by poboy427

Anyone have any personal experience with the florescent die that can be added to oil to help detect the origin of the leak problem better.

I have used it many times. It is "the FE's friend." I've had small oil leaks that were traveling, almost imperceptibly, down the block and then tracking back and dropping from what appeared to be the rear seal, the transmission, and even a spot on the frame! Using the UV dye let me find the origin (intake/head spot) and fix it.

[CHRIS DAMSCH]

You're not too far from me. I'm near I-90 and RT. 20. We'll have to hook up some time soon.

[Got the Bug]

Originally Posted by patrickt

I have used it many times. It is "the FE's friend." I've had small oil leaks that were traveling, almost imperceptibly, down the block and then tracking back and dropping from what appeared to be the rear seal, the transmission, and even a spot on the frame! Using the UV dye let me find the origin (intake/head spot) and fix it.

I second Patrick's recommendation. I bought an inexpensive UV kit from Summit that came with dye for oil and coolant. I was able to verify that the oil leak that I had was not coming from the valve covers or intake. If you need more dye, you can buy it at Napa (PN 765-2661).