Aluminum Flywheel

[blykins]

Not that I know of Patrick. I really don't even think there's any difference between the steel wheels. The cheap ones just come in uglier boxes.

[FUNFER2]

Have any of you used the "Fidanza" flywheel ?
Many of the tuner people are using it.

http://store.summitracing.com/partde...1&autoview=sku

[convincor]

See post #2 of this thread.
I'm using one, as well as a couple others I know. One of which does a lot of drag racing.
I havn't driven it that much yet, but no problems so far.
Had my machine shop check and match the balance to my old flywheel which was "0" balanced and it was perfect.
Once mounted I checked run-out and that was .006" total. Max allowable by the books is .017"

[FUNFER2]

Sorry,..... I did not see your post, now I do.
Thanks.

[cobrarkc]

This one is a much better deal. They are on Ebay all the time for this price and are just as good as the expensive ones and I believe a little lighter.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FIDAN...spagenameZWDVW

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by cobrarkc

This one is a much better deal. They are on Ebay all the time for this price and are just as good as the expensive ones and I believe a little lighter.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/FIDAN...spagenameZWDVW

Fidanza and Ebay are for those with most brains of all. All I did was pi$$ money away on the CF flywheel....

[DougD]

The question you should be asking is "how heavy is your flywheel?" when comparing them versus each other. They are not all the same weight. There are lightweight steel flywheels that approach the weight of an aluminum one. Single disc, multi-disc, etc. Ask about the weight.

[patrickt]

My overpriced CF flywheel touts itself as having "a replaceable steel friction surface that has been heat-treated for abrasion resistance and long life." Not that I need it yet, but neither their web site nor their new, and lengthy, 2009 catalog lists that part. I have a feeling that the cost of that part is greater than a new Fidanza flywheel....

[blykins]

I think you need to try one of the McLeod RST twin disc setups Patrick....

You'd be a good guinea pig. $685 and it's all yours.

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by blykins

I think you need to try one of the McLeod RST twin disc setups Patrick....

You'd be a good guinea pig. $685 and it's all yours.

Hmmm, tempting. Truth be told, there's a lot of overkill on the clutches around here. As easy as these cars spin their wheels, you don't really need all that much of a clutch -- and now that I think about it a lot of those race-only type clutches give you a good bit of chatter on the street with gentle stoplight take offs. You don't hear that mentioned all that often, though.

[blykins]

I'd rather have too much clutch than not enough though....just in case you decide to go to the strip and run drag radials.

A lot of my customers are the "....I have 600 horsepower and I want a clutch that will hold it, but I want it to drive like a Honda...."

It's very challenging for me to pick the right combination of pressure plate and clutch disc. I never order "clutch kits" but always hand pick each component.

If you pay attention to the disc material, you can minimize chatter. The organic clutches will be pretty docile. The Kevlar discs will probably chatter when they get hot. The aluminum or bronze pad discs might chatter, but there's a less chance than with the Kevlar.

[Ronbo]

Originally Posted by Rick Parker

When I attached the aluminum flywheel I did not want the heads of the bolts (ARP) baring down on the bare aluminum. I obtained the metal ring that is used with a flexplate in and Automatic trans application, it's a pretty common piece. It has the 6 holes in a ring the diameter of the crank flange, and distributes the clamping force a little more evenly IMO. It is made of a semi hardened material. Red Loctite all the way. No regrets.

Ronbo...The Green Loctite is for small diameter fasteners to be "Wicked" into the threads after assembly. It's not a high strength thread locker.

Yep, medium high. The green settels better in fine thread bolts than blue or red, there's also a loctite green bearing set. There's also a loctite yellow which you use if you never want to remove the bolt. Back in Cleveland a machinist friend of mine was also a rep for loctite he was the one who I found out about the yellow stuff from. I'm not sure where you'd get it as I've never seen anyone selling the yellow. (not that I'd ever use it)

Let's see if this works... http://www.henkelna.com/cps/rde/xchg...on%3Dsearch%7C

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Ronbo

...the yellow stuff from. I'm not sure where you'd get it as I've never seen anyone selling the yellow. (not that I'd ever use it)

Now I have heard of yellow Loctite. The auto threads on it all say it's a real bitc* to remove, but the literature says it's only medium strength. Speaking of literature, here is a list of most of the Loctite products, their color, and how to loosen them if you have to. Uhhh, for instance, say you got confused and put Loctite 262 on your spinners....
http://www.type2.com/library/chemicals/loctite.htm

[patrickt]

Here's a guy over on the pelicanparts forum fighting the yellow Loctite.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/showt...hreadid=406038

[Ronbo]

The stuff he had was more of an amber-ish color. Looked like honey.

The removal process was high heat and impact tools. (not or like red)

Probably some stuff NASA needed...

Lot of people think you need the high strength stuff, but lack of prep is the big problem with loctite not holding.

[elmariachi]

Originally Posted by patrickt

Uhhh, for instance, say you got confused and put Loctite 262 on your spinners....http://www.type2.com/library/chemicals/loctite.htm

But that would save on wire.

I have some of the yellow stuff, it was given to me by a NASA engineer here in Houston. It is waaaaaay beyond "medium." Let's just say we have bicycles and skateboards with bolts and nuts a mushroom cloud can't loosen. I would NOT put it on anything I ever wanted to get apart.

[Ronbo]

I also forgot to mention, if it's an coated bolt buff the threads with a wire wheel so the threads are bare metal. Loctite loses some bond strength against the usual bolt coatings like black oxide and zinc.

You know it's funny my experiance with the yellow stuff was almost 20 years ago. Strange how some things just stick with you.