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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 07-23-2009, 06:06 PM
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OK, your engine has just under 1400 miles on it. About how many quarts have you burned up during that time?
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 07-23-2009, 06:23 PM
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In the beginning, about one quart every 100 miles, now maybe half that.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 07-23-2009, 06:32 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZOERA-SC7XX View Post
In the beginning, about one quart every 100 miles, now maybe half that.
A quart every 150-200 miles, huh? If it were me I'd reset the intake, maybe try Barry's new gaskets, and then see where I was after that.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2009, 09:28 AM
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Default My Oil Consumption...

FYI, I checked my oil this morning and my FE appears to burn up a little less than a quart every 1000 miles. I would say that's probably pretty typical and no better/no worse than most broken-in FEs.
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2009, 10:32 AM
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Pull your valve covers and grab the keeper end of the valve stem via the spring retainer. With steady pressure using channel locks attempt to move the valve stem back and forth perpindicular to the valve. If you have severe valve guide wear you will see radial movement in the valve stem/retainer. If that's the case then it's time to pull the heads for a valve job or better yet, a set of new Eboks.. You can then take a look at the ring wear pattern on the cross-hatch in the cylinders. That also will give you an indication of how well the rings seated.

Dave
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2009, 11:17 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by undy View Post
Pull your valve covers and grab the keeper end of the valve stem via the spring retainer. With steady pressure using channel locks attempt to move the valve stem back and forth perpindicular to the valve. If you have severe valve guide wear you will see radial movement in the valve stem/retainer. If that's the case then it's time to pull the heads for a valve job or better yet, a set of new Eboks.. You can then take a look at the ring wear pattern on the cross-hatch in the cylinders. That also will give you an indication of how well the rings seated.
But Dave, this is pretty much a new engine -- it's only got a little over a thousand miles on it and I'm sure it's got new heads, probably Edel., and he's had an oil problem since the day it fired up.

ZOERA-SC7XX -- if you want me to post the Ford 428 service manual pages on pulling the intake manifold I will. It's pretty intuitive; the hardest part is lifting it off once you have everything unbolted (and that's with aluminum, with iron you've got to use a lift unless you're Barry R., whom I'm told can get dead lift an iron manifold while bending over like an inverted 'L' ).
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  #27 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2009, 11:42 AM
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Default Here it is...

I received a request to post these whether ZOERA-SC7XX wants them or not so here they are:






Last edited by patrickt; 07-24-2009 at 04:41 PM.. Reason: added the very first page
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2009, 12:14 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
But Dave, this is pretty much a new engine -- it's only got a little over a thousand miles on it and I'm sure it's got new heads, probably Edel., and he's had an oil problem since the day it fired up.
Quote:
Originally Posted by ZOERA-SC7XX View Post
The heads are C8AE-H 69 cc's and do not have the stamped sheet metal oil deflectors installed.
But, but, but Pat ..... The heads are not new, but reconditioned old stuff. It wouldn't be the 1st time a machine shop did a piss poor job on the guides or not did them at all, been there done that.

Did I catch ya ... for once????

-D
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2009, 12:16 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by undy View Post
Did I catch ya ... for once????

-D
Yes, it appears you did. I hate it when that happens.
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  #30 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2009, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by patrickt View Post
FYI, I checked my oil this morning and my FE appears to burn up a little less than a quart every 1000 miles. I would say that's probably pretty typical and no better/no worse than most broken-in FEs.
How many miles on your engine?
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  #31 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2009, 03:47 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZOERA-SC7XX View Post
How many miles on your engine?
Four thousand, but that level of oil consumption has been pretty consistent since I started paying attention to it at the 400 mile mark (which is when I did my first oil change).
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  #32 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2009, 03:54 PM
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Heads are old rebuilt and appeared to have top shelf workmanship. I have no problem assembling/disassembling the intake, heads, whatever needs to be done. My only question after seeing your schematic is the rocker assemblies. I rebuilt them using spacers and shims from DSC Motorsports, but I did not notice a difference between right side and left. The oil holes in the shafts are lined up properly with the rocker arms. The fit and function are fine. What it this 'notch' they mention?
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  #33 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2009, 04:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZOERA-SC7XX View Post
What it this 'notch' they mention?
That is the ever-important "Identification Notch." Note that I have edited my previous post to include the preceding page of the manual that talks about it in an extra bold font to emphasize how important the Ford engineers deemed it to be.
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  #34 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2009, 05:07 PM
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Default Uhhh, by the way...

... here's a post by a fella that had his notch going the wrong way, suffered smoke and oil consumption, and fixed it by putting the rocker shafts back in with the correct configuration -- all on a new build, I might add. http://www.network54.com/Forum/74182...99306768/smoke
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  #35 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2009, 05:11 PM
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Now I see it. I'll check tomorrow if they are in the proper location. Thanks.
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  #36 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2009, 05:52 PM
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I just went out to the garage and pulled the left (drivers side) rocker cover and checked the notch. It's on the rear lower toward the pushrod, which is where the diagram says it should be. I'll check the other tomorrow, but it seems to be correct. Which oil hole are they (FE Blog) referring to?
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  #37 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2009, 06:06 PM
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Patrick. The intake gasket does not look to be deformed or pinched.
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  #38 (permalink)  
Old 07-24-2009, 06:59 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZOERA-SC7XX View Post
Which oil hole are they (FE Blog) referring to?
They're talking about the oil holes in the shaft. They should be pointed down, not up. (Some pretty smart FE guys have written though that it's not as important as some seem to think it is.)

Quote:
Originally Posted by ZOERA-SC7XX View Post
Patrick. The intake gasket does not look to be deformed or pinched.
Well, try Undy's valve stem wiggle test and see how that does. The oil's got to be getting in your cylinders somehow, and there's only so many "doors" that it can be going through.
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  #39 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2009, 07:27 AM
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Well just my 2 cents. I have a 427 side oiler that has been taken apart and checked 3 times now and I go through oil like a knife through butter. 1 litre about every 100 miles...why? I have no idea. doesnt seem to burn much (maybe a little) heads had brand new guides put in ...new valve seals and the motor runs champ. If a guy goes through a pile of oil but doesnt really see the motor burning it where the heck is it going? or is it burnin it so well a guy doesnt really notice...I cant seem to figure it out so I have just been adding as I need....could adding too much oil cause a motor to burn it? My oil pressure and everything else has been perfect. Reason I ask is that someone who had the car prior used a dipstick that he parked after the new oil pan was installed. (maybe its marked wrong)?
PS I do leak a tad ....dont they all?
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Old 08-04-2009, 09:07 AM
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As Patrick points out, pay attention to the rocker shaft. If the rocker arm oil holes are at the top, it will flood that bank with oil. Big time. Ron
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