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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-15-2009, 11:24 AM
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Default over heating...clutch isn"t engaging

1)clutch won't work,

2) a little oil leak from the bottom of the bell housing

first ride LOL...started it up, hood off to make sure all is well. put it in to first, release clutch and it won't move. Readjust clutch still in first, press the pedal to the floor and go to start....clutch is now engaged and stuck in frist. How much tolerance is there in the adjustment?? In neutral all the shift levers are vertical...



thanks, Jon

Last edited by saltshaker; 08-15-2009 at 01:39 PM..
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Old 08-15-2009, 11:58 AM
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Depending on your clutch linkage, remove all free play until the throwout bearing comes in contact with the pressure plate, then back of a couple of threads for about 1/16" free play.

The engine shouldn't get that hot that quick. What size engine is it? A big block usually gets to about 180-185 with a 165 Deg thermostat in it (sounds weird, doesn't it?) and take aa long time to heat up....5-7 miles of driving, not idling under no load. Also, 100C (212) F isn't terribly too hot, but the fact you got there quickly could be new engine break-in heat, or if you use a non vacuum dist, your timing could be not far enough advanced. You may also have air trapped in the cyl heads. Try to release it by loosening the highest coolant fitting on the engine. Otherwise, remove the rad cap and run it for a bit. The air will eventually come out and the coolant level will drop. Top up with coolant.
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Old 08-15-2009, 03:41 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saltshaker View Post
1)
first ride LOL...started it up, hood off to make sure all is well. put it in to first, release clutch and it won't move.
Dang I wish you had that on video. I couldn't tell from your post whether your car moves now that you adjusted the clutch. Does it now not engage, or not disengage?
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Old 08-16-2009, 05:24 AM
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Default clutch

never got to go for a ride! I need to adjust the linkage on the trans as well as the clutch. The clutch is giving me trouble,it's engaged (pushing the pedal doesn't release it), on it won't engage at all. Any thoughts on adjusting it?
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Old 08-16-2009, 05:33 AM
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Hydraulic setup, right? You need to bleed the system. Sounds like you have air in it.

Also, adjust your slave cylinder so that in the clutch out position, your throw out bearing is close, but not touching the pressure plate. Set it at about .015-.020" if you can.

If you have a hydraulic throw out bearing, I'd be concerned about that leak you have coming from the bellhousing.
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Old 08-16-2009, 05:39 AM
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Default clutch adjustment

I'm using a slave, as for the adjustment...could you explain how this is adjusted.
how do you get a feeler gauge into the bell housing?
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Old 08-16-2009, 05:45 AM
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Don't worry with the feeler gauge, just eyeball it. You want it almost touching. The slave cylinder will have an adjusting nut on the pushrod. Just adjust it until you get the fork/TOB in the right spot.

Hydraulic clutches can operate with the throwout bearing riding the plate, but I've had an instance where a McLeod throw out bearing was burnt up by doing that, so now I always recommend a little air gap.

While you're under there, see if you can bleed that slave cylinder. You'll need a helper. If it's a Wilwood slave, you should be collapsing the dust boot almost all the way. If the thing is barely moving, you have trapped air and need to get rid of it.

Did you bench bleed the master cylinder?
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Old 08-16-2009, 05:52 AM
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the slave is pushing out almost 3/4".....the tolerance between engaged and not engaged is very little.
jon
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Old 08-16-2009, 05:54 AM
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Double check to see how far the TOB is out, adjust that, then bleed it.

You can easily check to see how you're doing with the car up on stands. Put the car in gear, then have someone try to turn the rear tire. When you push the clutch in, they should be able to turn it.
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Old 08-16-2009, 05:55 AM
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Default clutch adjustment

thanks,
Jon
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Old 08-16-2009, 05:56 AM
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Keep us posted.

BTW, is the oil coming out of the bellhousing, dripping down the front of the block plate, or down around the bellhousing?
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Old 08-16-2009, 05:59 AM
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One more thing...

Have someone push the clutch in while you check for engine/transmission movement. Any chance you could have a loose motor mount or transmission mount?
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Old 08-16-2009, 06:04 AM
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Default clutch

I think it was dripping down the back plate.
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Old 08-16-2009, 06:05 AM
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Ok, check for leaks up top....valve covers, intake manifold.
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Old 08-16-2009, 06:26 AM
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Well I can't add much to what Brent has posted, but here is a link to where I give a step-by-step on the final adjustment to your clutch. But Brent is right, first just eyeball it, get it so it kind of works right, make sure all mounts are right, and then you can worry about it getting it perfect. Here's the link with pics, of course, Clutch Adjustments
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Old 08-16-2009, 06:40 AM
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Default clutch adjustment

thanks, that makes it very understandable! no oil leals from the intake or valve covers...
Jon
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Old 08-16-2009, 08:15 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saltshaker View Post
no oil leals from the intake or valve covers...
Jon
You think there are no oil leaks from the intake or valve covers, but first you must pass the "white paper towel" test. Take a white paper towel and fold it in half twice, then wipe along the back valve covers where they meet the heads (especially the passenger side) and along the intake manifold where it meets the heads and mates with the block. If you have any moisture whatsoever on your paper towel then you have an oil leak. Remember that when you're running the engine you have pressure in there and even a tiny bit of oil mist can give you a nice, drippy leak.
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Old 08-19-2009, 03:34 PM
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Default oil leak/ Clutch adjustment

Well you were right! The back of the intake had oil,bummer! Any way to fix it with out replacing the gasket for the moment? I used the "right stuff"....it's leaking from that seal. As for the clutch...it works, I got it adjusted.
thanks to all,
Jon
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Old 08-19-2009, 03:57 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by saltshaker View Post
Well you were right! The back of the intake had oil,bummer! Any way to fix it with out replacing the gasket for the moment? I used the "right stuff"....it's leaking from that seal.

Buy some Grey RTV pictured below. Use paper towels and spray 409, or similary spray detergent, to clean along the line where the manifold meets the block. Let it dry. Then put a glob of the Grey RTV on your finger and run it along the line "squishing it" in to the crevices. Let dry. Do it again. Cross your fingers and see if you've reduced your leak to something you can live with.

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