HELP ! This problem is driving me *#%~:nuts! - Page 2

albanycobra · #21 (**permalink**) 10-09-2011, 12:37 AM

Here's what i would do Hersh. Pull your fuel pump fuse so it does not work. Get some aero start or similar spray it in the manifold. If the car starts then you know it is a fuel problem. If the car backfires then you have a timing issue. If nothing happens then you have a spark issue.....easy hey

RICK LAKE · #22 (**permalink**) 10-09-2011, 12:58 AM

BT Snake Hersh Most ecu will not fire the injector with any thing less that voltage of 10.2-10.4V at the battery. Stater is getting hot because of the low ampage in the battery. It sound like a dead cell. How old is the battery? more than a couple years, go to pep boys or auto zone, have tested,they fail about 32% of all batterys like Sears, and buy a new one. Try and get the highest CCA as possible to fit in the car. 525 is OK but something in the high 700's to 1,000 CCA would be better. This will fix the cranking problem. The other thing could be that the starter needs another rebuild. Didn't we have this done after R&G at Gateway???

We could alway go back to the 60's and push start it.

Work up a nice sweat loss a couple of pounds and be happy.

Rick L.

BT SNAKE · #23 (**permalink**) 10-09-2011, 06:14 AM

Oh yeah Rick! Great idea, all you guys wanted push start pay. Cost me
Dinner for nine guys. I'll just get a new starter thank very much.

Guys the pump and the reg is working. There is a small plug on top of the
Liquid filled gauge that needed to be removed as per instructions I
Didn't read. Duh? There is good spark and the injectors have current.
I have a brand new optima and it shows good on my tester.
A new Hi Torque starter is on order so we will see what happens when it gets here.

Hersh

Seagull81 · #24 (**permalink**) 10-10-2011, 07:27 PM

Hersh,
Could the regulator be wide open and the fuel is just going in circles back to the tank with no pressure build up?

BT SNAKE · #25 (**permalink**) 10-10-2011, 07:43 PM

Hi Steve,
I got the fuel pressure gauge to work and it
Now indicates 41 lbs. I have a new starter on order. I
Hope that solves the problem.

Hersh

Seagull81 · #26 (**permalink**) 10-11-2011, 06:42 PM

Get that thing fixed so we can go for a cruise.

BT SNAKE · #27 (**permalink**) 10-11-2011, 07:01 PM

Will do buddy. I'm sick seeing my GT parked and not
Running. As soon as I get her going we'll take that cruise.

Hersh

Rwillia4 · #28 (**permalink**) 10-14-2011, 03:09 AM

This might sound stupid. Is there any chance that you are charging the return fuel line and the regulator is a one-way valve stopping all the flow from reaching the injectors?
My TWM requires 55psi for operation
And yes your starter draw can drop your voltage below the minimum voltage to power the electronics turning them off. I have quickly hit the starter button and then hit it again letting the engine intertia turn the motor as the electronics come back up.

Have you tried putting some fuel in the intake to see if you get anything firing.

Clois Harlan · #29 (**permalink**) 10-14-2011, 11:30 AM

Alright Hersh, where are you at with this project.

There is a place in Dallas that sells some of the best hi torque mini starters I have ever seen. The company is called "Alterstart" yep they also sell alternators too. Prices are very fair too.

Clois

RICK LAKE · #30 (**permalink**) 10-14-2011, 04:37 PM

Clois H. Don't mess with the new Hersch Workout. Pushes the car from the back up to 7 mph, runs and dives into the driver seat, dropos trans in second gear and we have a Lemans start. I just don't understand the advantage of pushing up hill???

Rick L. Ps 1 hour and five minutes for a quick change trans in the GT.

BT SNAKE · #31 (**permalink**) 12-04-2011, 09:22 PM

Clois, Rick & all that offered help.
Sorry about taking so long to get back to the thread. I
Got the new starter on and the damn thing fired right up.
Go figure??
Anyway, I drove it around for about 50 miles and she ran
really sweet. I was real happy until I decided to recharge the A/C.
I started the engine and hit the A/C on switch. The engine died immediately
When it died all I could here was those little relays in the fuse panel buzzing and
clicking. I turned off the ingntion switch then back on again. Those relays still did the samething. I decided to try and start it again and got a real loud bang. The pump filled the cylinders with fuel and it hydro locked when I tried to start it
I thought I screwed up the engine but I took out all thee plugs and cranked the it over expelling all the fuel. I squirted oil in the spark plug holes and cranked it again. All the rockers were moving and everything turned smooth.
So the new problem is what he'll went wrong? Why would turning on the A/C do all this. The computer is a Ford EEC 1992Mustang A9L unit.
I got no clue how to test this thing to see if it's toast or the relay and fuse panel.
Anyone have any suggestions. Most likely I'll have to buy another EEC.

Hersh

Rwillia4 · #32 (**permalink**) 12-04-2011, 11:43 PM

"what went wrong"- Sounds like trying to use the A/C was the mistake.

...maybe driving a little faster will be easier than fixing the problem.

BT SNAKE · #33 (**permalink**) 12-05-2011, 08:46 AM

Hersh

Clois Harlan · #34 (**permalink**) 12-05-2011, 10:59 AM

Hersh,

Not sure what the answer is maybe Rick Lake or Rick Parker will step up with some ideas?

I have never heard of an electrical system doing that. Do you have something to pull codes from your computer?

Clois

BT SNAKE · #35 (**permalink**) 12-05-2011, 12:39 PM

Clois,
When ever I turn the key on those relays go to buzzing' & clicking again.
I have an check engine light but now it stays on. I know how to
Run the Key On Engine Off test but you can't because the relays
Won't stop. If I leave the key on then the fuel will fill up the cylinders
again. I even tried pulling the fuel pump fuse and doing the test. All
I got was a steady on engine light. I'm afraid the EEC is fried. If
I can't figure out how to test this then I'm going to order another
A9L computer.

Hersh

Racer_X · #36 (**permalink**) 12-05-2011, 10:29 PM

If the fuel pump is running all the time with the key on and the injectors are firing wide open, along with all the relays clicking it sounds like your ECU is bad (the computer).
How is the A/C switch connected? Is it using the computer controls to cycle the A/C clutch? Are you using the A/C switch to give the ECU A/C line +12 volts or ground it?

RICK LAKE · #37 (**permalink**) 12-06-2011, 04:17 AM

BT SNAKE Hersh I know something about GM and FAST ECU's I don't have alot of info on Ford units. From your problem said it a shorted out ECU. The problem is finding out WHAT COOKED this one so not to smoke another one. You had alot of starter problems, may have killed the battery enough to internally damage the quad drivers in the box. The first thing I would check is the grounds and battery supply to the ECU. If you have any doubt, install new wires. As for the AC compressor coming on and killing the car, there should be a 40amp relay to power up the clutch. NO direst connection between clutch and ECU, even on the ground side, IMO. Does the car have a data link to checkout the ECU?? Think I would start there first and see what is causing the blinking. Power connection can cause the same thing. Some ECU's have a default mode or limp mode to keep car running and get you off road or to local dealership for repair. After you get new ECU. and do oil change, when you start car, get fuel pressure built up and unhook fuel pump or turn off. This way you should have about 10-15 second before motor cuts out. If everything is OK, turn pump back on. We don't want to wash down the motor again. Sparying oil into each splark plug hole and crank motor wouldn't be a bad idea either. Good Luck. Check wiring good.

tboneheller · #38 (**permalink**) 12-06-2011, 06:59 AM

Be sure that the ecm is actually getting at least 12v. Check the ground as well. Use a volt meter not a test light.

BT SNAKE · #39 (**permalink**) 12-06-2011, 07:59 AM

Guys, I think RacerX has it right cause the battery and
all the cables are new. All grounds are good too. I'm
just going to pop for another EEC . I hooked everything
back up to give it another try thinking the computer would
reset itself. I left the A/C circuit out of the system and it
still does the samething.
Man, I can't believe there is know way to test these outside
the car. Seems illogical. You would think they would be test when manufactured
before they put them in a new car. I still would like to know
what fried it though.

Hersh

DonC · #40 (**permalink**) 12-06-2011, 08:46 AM

Hersh:
Napa sells refurbed A9L's for about $120.00 with an old core to trade in. You might check with them and find out if they have any way to check the old unit or can recommend a facility to send it to for a diagnosis. You might also check with your local Ford dealer.
The A9L's are getting pretty long in the tooth since they were made for cars produced in the late 80's and getting kind of hard to find.
You might also try replacing the relays before trying a new ECU. The old ones could have been fried when the problem first presented. They are a pretty simple design and not very expensive.
DonC