Club Cobra - Clutch Master Cylinder and Pedal Geometry

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Clutch Master Cylinder and Pedal Geometry

Discussion Tools

11-02-2010 08:05 AM - permalink

kitcarbp

For those of you who went with a manual or have a manual trans. Did you have to re engineer the linkage to have your clutch pedal sit at the correct height in relation to the brake pedal ? At first I did not bother me until I realized the CUSTOM made clutch pedal geometry was wrong as shipped from WCC. It does not provide enough stroke for the clutch MC.
I corrected this and will post pics for my mods soon. Now I can get full 1.1" stroke of the clutch master cylinder before the pedal hits the firewall

03-21-2011 11:17 PM - permalink

Xack

I tried a system provided by Forte's and found that the pedal pressure was quite a bit more. I put it back to what Vern supplied. Then I changed the pedal stop by grinding down the bracket. This give you more stroke and then I drilled a new hole just a bit higher on the clutch lever connected to the pushrod to change the geometry. Please show us what you did.

Xack

03-22-2011 08:52 PM - permalink

kitcarbp

Xack, I m in the middle of this, leaning toward moving up from 3/4" to 13/16" master cylinder to get the right movement at my McLeod HTOB. The Vernism is all wrong once again. This would elimnate modifying the stop (which you still need) and re drilling pivots. Just hope to find the time this Spring to get to that project. Using the 3/4" master I found you dont need a pedal stop because you cant get enough movement with pedal assembly he supplied with kit ! This is just one example of things wrong with the kit.

03-23-2011 11:30 PM - permalink

Xack

Kitcarbp,
Yeah, it's a common thing to discuss kit redesign of WCC with folks who own them. As you can see in my photos I've redone the steering components plus just about everything which I have decent skill to do. I am satisfied with the clutch mods I've done so far. I went pretty deep into that area and came back to the original set up with just grinding the stop and drilling a new hole. The new hole gave me more pedal travel and I needed to adjust the stop. If I were to to anything else I'd rip out the whole clutch-brake pedals and set it up with something totally different. It works, so I decided that I'm winning that battle with what I've got now. The difference in clutch to brake pedal also helps you keep your feet on the right pedal. I had a Honda with close clutch-brake pedals and I slammed hard braking when I meant to press the clutch once on the highway. I don't want to do that in my WCC. My clutch throw-out is a Tilton which may or may not be like yours.

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