Club Cobra - Water neck

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Water neck

Discussion Tools

11-05-2013 08:33 AM - permalink

BOBOCobra

Guys, I have had a heck of a time getting my water neck to seal 100%. It is the standard Summit chrome version with the bleed port on top and an 0-ring seal. It weeps a bit from the front between the bolts when I get above 205 degrees water temp (hard runs, high rpm). Re-installed it 3-4 times and still the same. My guess is it is not flat and temp expands it enough to weep. Only happens intermittent so very frustrating. is it the o-ring model? Any ideas?

11-06-2013 09:18 AM - permalink

Xack

Summit racing parts may not be from the USA. It may be impossible unless you get a neck from a US maker, or racing parts maker which machines these out of billet. Then again, these will be pricey and it's hard to find a maker who supports Ford 385 series. It could be your intake or just your o-ring is damaged. If your o-ring is too small in diameter sized to the track where the o-ring may not be squished enough when tight, or it may only be squished on one side. Check the track to see that it's uniform in size all around the circumference.

11-06-2013 01:50 PM - permalink

BOBOCobra

Yep, I have checked the o-ring a couple times. I don't think it is the manifold as this started up after I took off Vern's plumbing nightmare and changed out the water neck. My guess is it is not flat, I might be able to have Daryl mill it a little and flatten or go to a non o-ring model.

On another note, did yo get the WP pulley? How did it work?

11-08-2013 10:51 AM - permalink

Xack

Dave,
I got it a couple of weeks ago. It's installed and I had to get a new belt for my alternator. I have yet to run my engine since I've modified my system. New WP, Modified water plumbing. I'm working on little stuff like trimming the posts on my hood and trunk latches, trunk props to come in hopefully today. Trunk License plate light wiring. I pulled my front wheel to check the brake mounts. What broke on yours? I was looking to replace the brake calipers and rotors, but I'm going to do that later unless I can see that there is going to be an immediate problem with them. Did you do anything to your rear brakes? I see that these calipers are mounted to a bracket welded to the rear end axel housing. Wilwoods mount to the axel housing flange.

11-12-2013 04:07 PM - permalink

BOBOCobra

Sounds like things are coming along.Front calipers are basically truck calipers mounted to a plate that looks like the Granada bracket but is drilled to match the bigger and wider spaced caliper mounting bolts.There is a bracket to spindle mounting bolt sleeve welded to the "Granada" bracket along the length of the sleeve (welded on both sides of sleeve the entire length).That weld broke along the length of the sleeve causing the bracket to twist and break the brake line. Weld was not a penetration weld but a rookie slag weld.Changed to Wildwood 15" with cast iron bracket, vented rotor. Left back alone, bracket looked fine and will revisit this winter.

11-12-2013 04:14 PM - permalink

BOBOCobra

Stock after market Granada bracket does not work as it is set up for smaller calipers. So, this part was fabricated by Vern's guys to match Granada bracket but adapt to bigger calipers. Should have taken a picture but was so pissed off I just heaved in the pile of other items I have replaced and thrown out. Wildwoods were $1200 or so but would have spent twice that for good fronts. I was lucky, really lucky. No sign or feel of imminent failure, it just broke. Inside of wheel looks like it was drug on the road but not damaged. Wheel guy asked me what happened when I had them road force balanced.

11-12-2013 08:55 PM - permalink

Mohuska

I pulled off the Vern crap several years ago and installed Baer brakes with an electric hydroboost and couldn't be happier. Baer conversion was pretty easy.

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