Club Cobra - Vern stole my Anti-Sway Bar!

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Vern stole my Anti-Sway Bar!

Discussion Tools

06-19-2014 01:16 PM - permalink

Dirkdaddy

Xack - I am not sure if my car is typical but there is a slot in the frame and the oil pan is even notched severly (needs two drain plugs) for no apparent reason...unless you are installing a sway bar across there! if one was available - Addco could make one for us - it would pretty simple to install. The frame across that notch is beefy enough for the mounts, and the ends I would attach to links that connect to the lower A arms with a cross bar....like the capital "A", the horizontal part would be welded to the other parts and give a mount in the middle of the A arm for the link. it would also strengthen the A arm.

RE: sway bar - We are very new to the cobra and not sure how it really handles would have to take to a track to test the limits. I'm not sure it really needs a sway bar on the front. Adding one adds understeer, which might be good on such a high power to weight car. the rear one adds oversteer.

06-19-2014 01:19 PM - permalink

Dirkdaddy

I am curious about references to it being crappy square tube. Granted not everyone uses square tube but is there a reason its a problem? Have you had trouble with the front suspension? the stock GM or Ford style A arms are stamped steel in sort of a U shape, they are strong but not round tubing either.

I'm not an expert, but I did stay at a Holiday Inn last night (grin). Suspension design I think uses roll centers and thus, I did notice the long/short arm front end, which may greatly limit roll of a car which is already sporting a very low center of gravity.

I'm talking out my but here's a reference that will blow your mind I can't really grasp all this stuff

06-19-2014 02:54 PM - permalink

Xack

They look like they are a one-piece part. In other words, Just flip it and now you've got the other side. There is no built in angle on the ball joint for alignment across the movement of suspension parts.

06-25-2014 06:44 PM - permalink

Xack

Update:
I was talking to a chassis specialist who can make custom front lower control arms for me. The bottom line is..
1. The suspension points are about a foot in front of the engine. As opposed to Mustang or Pinto design where the engine weight is on top of the suspension.
2. The springs are out next to the spindle position as opposed to closer to the frame like Mustang II lower control arm parts.
This makes a difference on how leverage on the lower arm works with the weight entering corners. I may get beefier lower arms made with some adjustment built in, but not this year.

07-07-2014 02:08 PM - permalink

Cobraqcca

Hi Guys -

I know it's been forever that I haven't been engaged on this forum, Sorry!!
Registering here in Quebec has been a challenge...
I needed to get a "Professional Opinion" on the chassis, roadability and safety of the vehicle "in the real world".
Just to Qualify this engineer, he apparently is a specialist in "chassis dynamics" with a particular involvement in "Nascar" and the DOT respects his opinion 'Kit' cars here in Quebec, plus he's been doing this for @ 35 years.
Anyhow, he said the square tubing on our cars is much stronger than round because they won't flex or twist as much!! There are a number of Nascar Teams that use this on the bottom "A" arm or table b/c that's where the major amount of stress happens in the race cars! He also said that sway bars aren't necessary if the coil overs are stiff as they are on our WCC's!
So, I don't know if that helps or confuses, but I thought I would share his comments with y'all!!

Best Regards,
Gary

07-10-2014 09:45 AM - permalink

Xack

Yes, I'm in favor of good handling and cornering. The 'M II' front suspension on the Kellison had a custom designed front anti-sway bar. Vern re-made these components and deleted the bar. I have zero faith in his ability to design suspension components or systems. Unfortunately, the frame is unique and parts may be custom. We have to make or research parts to replace or improve the system. That is like finding a needle in a haystack. So, perhaps we don't need the bar? I believe we would benefit from it. The question is... is it worth the effort? I'm finding that just finding information is taking too long for me. Maybe the wise choice is to just leave it alone. At least for now I am.

07-10-2014 11:31 AM - permalink

Cobraqcca

Hi Xack - the engineer "Test Drove" my Cobra (part of the testing that is required by Quebec), and he said "Unless you take it to the Road Course on a regular basis, you won't need a roll bar, there's enough adjustment in the coil overs." So, as you said, try it out first and then decide!! ;-)

07-11-2014 11:06 AM - permalink

Xack

Cobraqcca,
Thank you for the input. That's exactly the kind of insight I was looking for. Perfection will come at a cost. How much, and what are you willing to pay?

07-12-2014 05:24 AM - permalink

BAsque1

No worries man I have broad shoulders, but I would love to meet this piece of work face to face (Vernie!) Its always nice corresponding with you my brother.
Regards
Lou

07-13-2014 09:30 AM - permalink

cycleguy55

Check out the post from 'PAINTER' on the 'What's the story with Vern lately? Not word about him!!' thread - it appears he has acquired the jigs and fixtures from Vern and wants to resurrect and repair the 'brand'. He deserves our support!

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