Club Cobra - Alignment

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Alignment

Discussion Tools

07-29-2014 12:29 PM - permalink

BOBOCobra

Gents, does anyone know the alignment specs for the West Coast? I want to check all 4 and need the specs. thanks, Dave

07-30-2014 09:11 PM - permalink

cycleguy55

I've been doing a lot of Web surfing to come up with the alignment specs as my car is heading for safety on Friday and they're looking for them. There are a LOT of Mustang II front ends out there, particularly among the hot rod crowd, and many of them are aftermarket reproductions these days.

From what I've seen, virtually everyone says not to follow the Ford specifications. The following seems to be in the range but, as many have noted, each car is different.

These specifications are in order of importance:

1. NO more than 0.25 degrees difference between driver’s side and passenger’s side.

2. Caster: +2.0 to + 6.0 degrees

3. Camber: -0.5 (+/- 0.25) degrees

4. Toe In: 1/16" to 1/8”

Caster recommendations seem to suggest the low end of the range for manual racks and the higher end for power steering.

I don't know what mine is currently set at, but I'm inclined to discuss with the shop and aim for somewhere around +4 degrees of caster, -0.5 of camber and 1/8" of toe in.

YMMV

07-31-2014 08:00 AM - permalink

BOBOCobra

That is exactly what I have found and the specs I am going to use, thanks for the confirmation. I am getting mine done Wednesday to those specs and I am looking at 3-5 degrees caster and will move it from there, I just want both sides the same. I had mine checked, it is so far out on every angle I am surprised it even rolls, not sure it was ever done. The challenge might be the shims as it may require the wheels to come off to shim properly. I will report back.

08-01-2014 05:58 PM - permalink

Xack

Let us know how you get the alignment in spec. I am curious how easy or hard it is to align this setup. I am contemplating adjustable top or bottom arms to set the adjustments if it proves to require too many shims. In no way am I an expert on this by far.

08-06-2014 03:29 PM - permalink

BOBOCobra

Well, that was fun. The issue is that if you use an automated machine the Ford OEM did not use shims. the alignment machine will not tell you how many shims and which side. So you either have to guess, or pick a car that used upper shims and then input the specs you want and then trial and error with the shims. We picked a 72 chevy pickup to dial it in (it uses upper shims only) and that gave us the number and location for shims and then change/drive/change/drive. It took about 4 iterations but we got it done. you need to remove the wheel each time you shim so that was the biggest PITA but it took about 3 hours. No rear adjustments so it is what it is. It is within tolerance and we could not get it dead on but it is close enough. WE got the right side dialed in and then only worked on the left side to try and match the right. That prevented us from chasing it back and forth. 3 hours was no big deal.

08-06-2014 03:34 PM - permalink

BOBOCobra

Oh, and one last thing. Vern uses 2" long grade 8 bolts on the arms and if you add shims the 2" bolt may not long enough to engage the lock nut. You then get a 9/16" 2.5" long bolt and it has a shoulder that wont fit through the arm so you get to grind off the shoulder, or try to find a 2.5" long bolt that is all thread. Grade 8 needs to be used, and I could not find a 2.5" all thread. A grinding wheel and 5 minutes took care of it but another little PITA thing we have all experienced.

04-10-2016 08:32 AM - permalink

joey4420

Just read this. Had to replace both inner and outer tie rod ends... so off to the alignment shop this week. I am glad I read this I can plan accordingly and maybe even have bolts at the ready

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