Club Cobra - Radiator Hoses

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Radiator Hoses

Discussion Tools

03-16-2016 06:05 PM - permalink

joey4420

So with the help of several of you here (thank you) I have gotten all the parts to rework my cooling system. And in the process guess what I found. There was no backing plate on the water pump, and sadly this will cause the engine to always run hot no matter what you do otherwise. So after I clean up the build up in there I will install the new water pump and start to put everything back together.

04-02-2016 03:22 PM - permalink

joey4420

So after much work and side tracking, I am just about ready to slide the radiator back under the car and jack it in place. Side items while it was out.

Mounted an overflow tank, added a pressure reducer to the power steering. Replaced both inner and outer tie rod ends (you can't imagine how bad the inners were, I had almost 2 inches of play at each wheel). New water pump with backing plate. Installed a duct line for air for defrosters (yes I will drive in the cold).

I have also installed a 4000 CFM dual fan set up, I can't wait see it cool the radiator.

I had to custom make the upper and lower brackets but it will not go anywhere. as you can see I also had to trim the aluminum a little so I could still put hoses in place.

I also ordered a fire extinguisher mount, still have a few things to do after that as well.

04-23-2016 05:16 PM - permalink

joey4420

Okay, so I have everything in the car and it is drivable sort of. It gets to around 180 degrees and the radiator cap opens up and starts pissing antifreeze everywhere. I have a 13lbs cap. Thoughts? Do I need a heavy cap or do I have other issues.

04-25-2016 04:41 PM - permalink

Xack

It sounds like the overflow tank line is clogged. ?? That's where the extra antifreeze is supposed to go. Right?

04-25-2016 04:50 PM - permalink

joey4420

I added a 16lbs cap and it seemed to help. When I say it is pissing everywhere it is going to my puke tank then onto the ground. All hoses are new and the radiator was cleaned and pressure tested. New water pump and tstat from Stewart's.

04-27-2016 11:21 AM - permalink

Xack

More than likely there was air expanding which pushed out the water when it got warm. A few cycles of cold to warm should relieve this symptom . I'm guessing.

Water does not expand, but only when freezing. Air permits the presence of steam. Air expands. The hoses and your metal in the cooling system will expand somewhat. Remove the air and you won't see much difference in the water level.

04-27-2016 01:03 PM - permalink

joey4420

I was thinking air, so I will keep working trying to bleed it off. It drove fine two or three times after having heat cycled 3 times, then it just seemed to start overflowing. After changing to a 16lbs cap it seemed to help a lot. I have also removed the baffles from my exhaust it hopes of keeping the heat down in the engine, since after reading a lot about exhaust I have found this can also cause heat issues if too much back pressure and sadly the factory set up has way too much back pressure for a nicely running 460.

04-28-2016 04:49 AM - permalink

Xack

I'm surprised that the side pipes are a concern. The center 2" is open through to the end. That's got to be much better flow than a muffler, or with a catalytic converter.

04-28-2016 05:47 AM - permalink

BAsque1

Joey
Word to the wise, if you car gets air locked it is a bit of a pain to burp, it took me 2 weeks last year after I changed the thermostat to get it burped, finally it cleared . Snap-on has a nifty tool that you can use to vacuum the air out fill in the coolant and test for leaks. I just had my Range Rover done that way. Its funny you mentioned the RR. These hoses could vary in size depending on how was the car built.
Good luck
Lou
PS
Don't forget to add a bottle of Water-wetter it works great!!

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