Club Cobra - Radiator Hoses

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Radiator Hoses

Discussion Tools

02-27-2016 07:45 AM - permalink

joey4420

Are the hoses from a specific vehicle or more of a make it fit kind of thing? Not sure how old mine are and I want to renew all the hoses before summer. Also any good advice on bleeding the air out of the system? It reminds me of a P38 Land Rover, fill it, run it till warm. Let cool, fill it again. Repeat till it takes no more water.

And by water I mean mixed antifreeze and distilled water.

02-27-2016 10:06 AM - permalink

BOBOCobra

Joey, I completely redesigned my cooling system and bleed hoses so I'm not much help. If you have an original WCC system then yes it is fill, run, burp, repeat. I found that way too unreliable, not to mention the design is also incorrect, so I tore it all out and started over.

02-27-2016 12:24 PM - permalink

joey4420

Any good photos of what you did? I don't like the old steel radiator that is in my car and wouldn't mind changing it out as well.

03-02-2016 11:52 AM - permalink

Xack

Put an air-bleed valve on the top of your water neck. Hook up a hose to your reserve tank. Fill the rad. tank and open it up till it's all water in the line. You should seriously think of changing the cooling hose set up on that car. Bill (Kitcarbp) has the solution for you.

03-02-2016 03:49 PM - permalink

BOBOCobra

Step 1- I removed the entire upper "degas/fill" system and threw it away. Use the same water neck and put in a small 1/8" GM air bleed valve to bleed air in neck like zack says. The fill line from the pressure tank is routed to the lower suction port/hose on the radiator. The radiator air bleed is on the high pressure side on top of radiator routed to the pressure tank. I put a small orifice in the line to keep minimal fluid flowing into the pressure tank but allows air to escape before it is pushed into the radiator. Puke tank is the same setup.
As WP speed increases suddenly on hard acceleration and coolant demand increases it can pull from the radiator AND the pressure tank/puke tank routed to the suction side. There is some circulation of fluid from the pressure side but not enough to cause significant heat increase. Steady state driving it sticks at 185 and does not move. 16 psi cap.

03-02-2016 03:55 PM - permalink

BOBOCobra

Air is automatically purged after about 5-6 heat cycles and pushes from radiator to the pressure tank, to the puke tank. You can bleed the water neck now and then to check for trapped air and also use that slick little bleed valve when you refill the system to let air out. I can monitor the coolant level from the puke tank.

03-02-2016 06:35 PM - permalink

joey4420

Any pictures of the updates? I know I am replacing the thermostat tomorrow, which I think is my main issue as well as changing my Flexalite 150 back in its puller position vice the pusher, since it was never designed to be a pusher.

03-03-2016 05:46 PM - permalink

Xack

I wrote in another area somewhere, mine came with a fan which was a push but run in reverse. Total crap! the only air moved was a 2" wide circle on the perimeter of the fan.

03-04-2016 01:41 PM - permalink

BOBOCobra

Good point xack, I forgot about the fan that was a pusher but wired to be a puller. Threw that away also. I probably overdid my fan setup but was tired of fighting it. None of that has anything to do with burping air, but once the air is out and if it runs hot there is plenty of information on here to help.

03-08-2016 10:15 AM - permalink

cycleguy55

I solved the air / bleed / burping problem by doing two things:
1) Installed an inline filler neck (Inline Filler Neck Components - Factory Five Parts Catalog) at the high point of the hose from the thermostat to the radiator.
2) Installed a high flow thermostat (180°F) with three 3/16" bypass holes drilled in the plate. Those holes allow some coolant and, more importantly, air to bypass the thermostat even when closed. This modification results in the engine taking slightly longer to reach operating temperature in cold weather, but it allows the thermostat to function properly when using a high flow water pump at high engine RPM.

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