Club Cobra - Just finished my new WCC

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Just finished my new WCC

Discussion Tools

07-14-2013 04:22 PM - permalink

BOBOCobra

Two most important things we did. 1) Overdrive the water pump. Need good water flow at idle and high flow WP was insufficient at idle. 2) more core area of rad serviced by fans and tight shroud. Over 70% of core is serviced directly in front of fans. Original design was only about 50% and shroud was average at best. the front shroud is helpful at ram air and temps cool faster with it, but problem was at idle, not ram air. More fun on the horizon.

07-15-2013 08:31 AM - permalink

Xack

Bobo:
What is your diameters on your crank pulley and your WP pulley now? I'd like to compare yours with mine.

Regards,
Xack

07-15-2013 11:45 AM - permalink

BOBOCobra

About 4.125". That is as small as I could go and gives me 30% overdrive. Was a little tricky to machine and fit on pump hub and had to machine a small relief on back to clear pump housing gussets. Only other option is to make a bigger crank pulley and that affects everything else. If you want one we have the machine program and I can get you in touch with him.

07-15-2013 11:47 AM - permalink

BOBOCobra

Sorry, crank pulley is 5.75"

07-15-2013 11:58 AM - permalink

Xack

YES INDEEDIE,
PM me the details. I want one. My machine will see a lot of idling and sitting in traffic waiting for the light to turn green. Your bigger pulley looks like mine. I'm assuming that you got the first set from "March" and it was an overdrive, not stock, right? I'll measure my setup as soon as I get home tonight.
Xack

07-15-2013 03:25 PM - permalink

BOBOCobra

Yep, March pulley's and original was their "overdrive" wp setup at 5.25" diameter. The overdrive is a whole 5%. Let me email machine shop and confirm and will send you the details.

07-15-2013 05:15 PM - permalink

BOBOCobra

Xack, sent a PM let me know you got it.

07-19-2013 06:58 AM - permalink

Xack

Thanks,
Got it and am working on purchase.

I was thinking about adding another electrical external water pump in series on the water inlet to the mechanical pump. I was thinking this to run water through the engine after it stopped running for a few minutes and to assist at higher temps. It's not a race car, therefore, the solution should not be this involved, so I did not do it.

07-20-2013 10:00 AM - permalink

BOBOCobra

Yep, that seems a little overkill to me. I have a mech gauge and can watch the temp after shut down. If I roll in at 200 and idle a minute I am down to 195 or so and if I shut down it will heat soak 5-10 degrees tops. At worst case if I shut down at 205 I can live with a 215 heat soak (IMO) that is not going to damage anything. FORD racing crate is built pretty stout and the SCJ heads can take some heat. Maybe over several years it could have an effect on springs but I am not going to sorry about that. I have run at some REALLY high temps getting this thing worked out so a 215 heat soak is not a big deal to me.

07-21-2013 01:40 PM - permalink

Xack

When I was running at cam break-in, I saw 225 on the gauge. It seemed as if it would not stop climbing, so I shut her down. It never boiled or popped the radiator cap, so I do not think I damaged anything. My heads are stock cast iron. The biggest differences I saw were when I fixed my fan and increased air flow through the rad. I had also gutted a thermostat and blocked off the emergency return from the pump to the intake. My temps stayed around 180~190. After that I had modified the plumbing to the overflow tank and also replaced my WP with an Edelbrock. That is due to recommendations from the Ford460 forum. I have not run my engine yet with the new WP. I realize now, that this extra expense may not help me much since the design of this pump is for higher rpms and I'll not see much of that on this car. I also realize the reason for changing it to reduce cavitation. I'm hoping that I can just drive it and not keep an eye on the temps all the time.

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