Club Cobra - Just finished my new WCC

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Just finished my new WCC

Discussion Tools

07-22-2013 01:08 PM - permalink

BOBOCobra

Well, I boiled over at least 4 times. I had to drive it to figure out under what conditions it did what. If I got to 220 I could not stop as it just got higher. but that would only happen under certain conditions. If I was in a place I could not get pulled over by 220 it was like the Chernobyl nuclear plant run away. If I could get home I could stuff a hose in the grill and cool the rad but if not there was nothing I could do but shut it down, let it boil and restart 4-5 times after the rad had cooled the water and I could keep cycling it in. 3-4 cycles and it would come back below 220. It was a joke. I did block and compression tests each time and seems to be fine. I may pay the price later but I had to drive it and find a solution.

07-22-2013 01:24 PM - permalink

BOBOCobra

The system held 17 psi air test for a day. Coolant cycles back from puke bottle as it cools. After the worst boil we changed the oil and it was fine. So,we have changed plumbing,overdriven the WP,3 different fans, cleaned the rad, modified shrouds, mechanical gauge, added inlet shroud and wore out the radiator mounting bolts (just kidding). Each time it got better but I would have problems under different conditions each time. I still drive with one eye on the gauge. 92 ambient yesterday and drove 50 miles into foothills and topped out at 210 on the steeps behind trucks.On flats and downhill came down to 180-190 and 195 at 80 mph in the flats. 195-200 seems to be normal op temp,205 now and then and 210 under hard conditions.FORD tested at factory and recorded 200 degrees after 20 minutes at 3000 rpm, so seems normal.One thing is for certain, she is broken in.The WCC cooling system is garbage.Plumbing is wrong,fan too small/wrong, shroud is sh##...you are doing the right thing.

07-22-2013 01:40 PM - permalink

BOBOCobra

Regarding yours. you did the right thing with the WP. At high RPM she cools great. Remember I am overdriven 30% so high flow at high rpm is an understatement. This morning at WOT and 75 ambient she was at 180 dead solid (and a handfull at WOT, holy crap!). water flow is taken care of. air flow is next. pull as much as you can and then a little more. shroud the fans TIGHT. Made a huge difference. Front shroud I'm not sure about but it doesn't hurt.water wetter and all that crap, save your money. running 80/20 water, does not freeze here. I need to play with advance and A/F, and so will you, but that will dial in later after I am 150% sure the cooling is fixed. Before all this I could idle all day at 180/190 but driving it, what a mess. Get her on the road and let us know.

07-22-2013 06:56 PM - permalink

Xack

Thanks, Glad to hear the WP and overdrive pulley will help. I replaced my fan with a larger "S" blade the shrouding fits pretty tight on the back of the rad. I'm hoping the fan set up will be OK. The only thing I can do later would be to put a pusher on the front and shroud that too.

07-23-2013 01:33 PM - permalink

BOBOCobra

What I ended up with was 2-13" pullers. they are slightly bigger than the core but I could stage the fan switches separate. I tired a s-blade 16" that advertised 3160 CFM and it pulled good but was just not enough.I have my doubts as it only pulled 14 amps and there is no free lunch, CFM = amp draw. these draw 21 amps each and pull a lot of air. When they come on at a stop light I can feel the heat blow out from under the car and they sound like an F-16 spooling up. Mine was just trial and fix until I found the right combo. Keep us informed.

07-24-2013 02:57 PM - permalink

Xack

Do you occasionally get a sea gull in your grille? If your having to do that much air-flow, it sounds to me that something is not right. Are you running a bit too lean? Leaning out the mixture too much it'll run hot. Do you have EFI or Carb? How much advance are you running at idle?

07-25-2013 08:17 AM - permalink

BOBOCobra

It sucks in dogs and cats. Edelbrock carb and we leaned it up a little (spring change) but nothing major, want to keep it a little fat during break in but she was OBESE when I got it, killed my wife's hedge from fuel spitting out pipes. Retarded timing to about 30 total, I think it is about 12-14 at idle, I don't remember, just enough to prevent hard hot start. I am going to change the carb this winter, I don't like the edelbrock that much. Need to tune A/F. We may have gone overboard on the fans but I was tired of dealing with it. I had a small leak at the water neck seal and at that time I just pulled the rad and put on the fans. The high flow 16" may have been enough but I was not going to mess with it 1 more time. The engineer in me said more is better.

07-26-2013 06:10 PM - permalink

Xack

I was also wondering if you have a lot of rust in the block. You did say that your rad was full of gunk. Was that gunk rust from the block? Rust makes it hard to make good heat exchange from the block to the H2O. Have you flushed the system since you improved things?

I had my engine sitting around after I drained the water to change out the water pump. I'm wondering if the block rusted any on the inside since this winter...

07-27-2013 10:19 AM - permalink

BOBOCobra

I don't know where it came from, the block or from a junkyard rad. We have flushed block and rad many times and it is clean now. Pulled off intake and ran mirror down water jacket, all clear. I don't know if John flushed block after sitting around last winter prior to firing it up this Spring. Based on what I went through if you can flush first, do it. PITA, but nothing like trying to clean out a rad.

07-30-2013 04:54 PM - permalink

Xack

I spoke to your contact for the pulley. He told me that he assembles different brands of Cobras and this fan combo is his standard approach. BBF's and the small block strokers need more cooling, i.e. airflow. He says he'll get my pulley done next week. Hopefully this is the ticket. At this point I can't do anything more than crank her up.

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