Club Cobra - Electric fans

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Electric fans

Discussion Tools

08-12-2013 06:25 AM - permalink

BAsque1

My electric fans stopped working all of a sudden 2 days ago, I checked the fuse box and found an ACC 25 amp fuse blown, I changed it and still nothing happen when the temp reaches 200* (that's when the fans kicked on).

Any ideas from anyone as to where to look and what to look for? I must accept the fact that electricity and I are not good bedfellows.
Tks
Lou

08-12-2013 08:03 AM - permalink

Xack

Something caused the fuse to blow, obviously. Your motor may have been damaged b4 the fuse melted. Was it a slow blow or fast acting fuse? Are your fan relays still working? You can test by adjusting the temp setting pot and see if the switch side or output side is bad.

08-12-2013 12:47 PM - permalink

BAsque1

Well it just happen I have the bayonet 2 prong fuses. I replaced the blown fuse took the car for a slow ride to force the temp to go up, at 200* the fans normally kick on. It did not happen. I checked the fuse and the fuse is fine. I will have to trace the fan wires to a relay I have no clue where the relay is installed in my car. I will get back to you if I am lucky or unlucky

08-12-2013 01:37 PM - permalink

Xack

Lou,
It looks like your going wire fishing. I'm assuming your system has an adjustable temperature switch. First find the probe in the radiator or if it has a manifold switch. Then trace back to the switch, Hopefully it's the kind that has a potentiometer knob. That should be mounted in the front somewhere. Then your relay should be around there someplace.

08-12-2013 02:24 PM - permalink

BAsque1

Ok I was able to locate 2 relays that had 2 30Amp fuses these were literally melted, I followed these wire and on top of the wheel well right hand side the 2 wires from the relay were fused again with 2 30 amp fuses also blown. I replaced all 4 fuses started the car to 180* then pushed to 200* the fans kicked like champs. The wires of the fans are cool not even close to hot so I wonder if the blowing of the fuses was caused by the new alternator hesitating when the pulley screeches with the load. Now I am letting the car cool off and change the pulley for the new March bigger diameter aluminum pulley.

08-13-2013 02:07 PM - permalink

BAsque1

Ok new pulley installed (bigger diameter Aluminum) worked like a charm, temperature went to 200* the fans kicked on as supposed to NO BELT SCREECHING YAY!! problem solved.

10-10-2015 11:56 AM - permalink

cycleguy55

I discovered yesterday that my fans weren't working. The temperature gauge climbed to 250° F before I hit the highway and got it back down to about 200° F. Oil temperature was up to 230° F, then back down to about 210° F.

Now the search begins for the fuse(s), relay, etc. - I sure hope it's something simple, as I'm not keen on the concept of changing out the fans. Even if it's only a blown fuse I still need to figure out the root cause.

10-12-2015 08:28 PM - permalink

cycleguy55

I have confirmed the thermostatically controlled switch has power, and the fans work when I feed power to them using a jumper, which leaves the relay as the culprit.

It appears the relay is mounted on the front face of the crossmember above the clutch and brake pedals. I snaked a USB inspection camera in there and was able to read the number on the relay which a Google search identified as a GM blower fan relay.

I haven't pulled the relay yet, but it looks like the best way to get at it is through the access panels on the front of the foot box in the wheel well. Anyone else have their relay in a similar location?

My plan is to replace the relay with a pair of relays, wired in parallel. That way they'll share the load and I'll have redundancy should one of them fail at some point in the future. I'm not running a space program, but no cooling fans can be a problem and this is a cheap and easy way to prevent a recurrence.

10-16-2015 08:36 AM - permalink

cycleguy55

Update: I pulled the access panels and went in through the front of the footwell. Not super easy to get to, but way easier than the alternative.

Turns out my diagnosis was correct. I pulled the old relay out and plugged jumpers / leads from the socket to the new relays and tested before cutting any wires - all good. Then I cut the wires off the old relay socket and attached the new relays (in parallel) using crimp connectors, then heat shrink tubing over all connections. All done and working like a charm.

05-02-2016 01:06 PM - permalink

cycleguy55

Yesterday I was suddenly enveloped by an acrid cloud of smoke, which quickly dissipated. No sign of anything under the hood or on the headers. Started it up & all gauges were normal, so drove home.

I found a relay cover in the footwell - cracked. Hmmm.... I reached in where the relays were and my hand became covered in slimy black goo. Definitely not good.

ALL of the insulation was melted off the wires from the relay sockets back to the wiring harness. It looks like one of the relays slipped down and was jammed by the clutch pedal or actuating rod, crushing it and exposing the electrified bits inside. It appears there is no fuse or breaker protecting that circuit - something I'll fix when I put it all back together. Again.

Must have been very close to starting a fire and losing the car. Yikes.

Need to: a) fix the wiring; and b) get and carry a good extinguisher.

Be careful out there.

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