![]() |
Newbie Here - Saying Hello
Hello everyone! I just joined and wanted to introduce myself and tell you what I'm building.
My car is a Race Car Replicas (RCR) GT40 MkI Gulf car. It has an aluminum monocoque chassis and RHD/RHS. Here are some of the details 331 SBF with KB pistons (10.:1), forged rods and crank Victor Jr aluminum heads (2.05/1.60 valves) Comp Cams hydraulic roller cam (.598/.598 lift, 236/236 dur @ .050 lift) Crane electronic ignition Holman-Moody aluminum valve covers ERA bundle of snakes 48 IDA Webers (soon to be ordered) Armando's GT40 oil pan (polished) ZF 5-spd Fidanza aluminum flywheel 15x8 and 15x14 BRM wheels AP Racing 4-piston calipers 11.75" straight vane ventilated rotors AVON historic tread tires Original style seats LUKE FIA 6-point racing harness Here are some pictures of my build so far... http://mygt40.com/myPictures/aluminum%20013.jpg Adjustable spoiler recently fabricated similar to the one on 1076P http://mygt40.com/myPictures/spoiler.jpg Test fitting the wheels after they were painted http://mygt40.com/myPictures/paintedwheels003.jpg http://mygt40.com/myPictures/wheelsandtires%20001.jpg http://mygt40.com/myPictures/roller%20002.jpg http://mygt40.com/myPictures/roller%20004.jpg Bill D |
Some pictures of the engine. Still need the Webers, but the wallet is empty right now.
http://mygt40.com/myPictures/exhaust%20001.jpg http://mygt40.com/myPictures/exhaust%20003.jpg http://mygt40.com/myPictures/exhaust%20004.jpg Cheers Bill D |
WELL I think it looks VERY VERY cool ..cant wait to see it finished :)
|
Lookin GREAT bill!! Ron Is going to be Very upset that you strayed from his
beloved Gt40 forum! Your going to get a spanking. Your another one of his kids skipping school. Like me I wouldn't listen to him so he kicked me out of the house:( Yor are getting close to getting her done. You are going to love it as I explained in the email i sent you. Best regards OLIVER THE GREAT |
Quote:
Stop...now. |
Hi Bill
I've been following your build on GT40s.com . Your workmanship is awesome and your car will be the envy of most when it is finished. I bought a DRB kit but I wish I bought an RCR, that mono alloy tub is excellent.:) |
Bill, it looks gorgeous!
I envy your optimism with the straight pipes. Not even a slip fitting for a muffled switcheroo for inspection? I wish I could be there for when you first fire her up with the Webers. Even with my mufflers, my set of 48IDAs howl soooo sweeet! Bet you can't wait. BTW, check out the cheap (relative term of course) route I took, Weber USA's kit for $1795, then send them to Ian in CAV Canada for about another grand or so for vacuum, plumbing and turkey pan set up. PS, any way I can get a copy of the drawings or sheet on the adjustable spoiler? Beautifully done... |
Thanks for the compliments JC. The dimensions for the spoiler will be different for each car manufacturer since no two bodies are the same shape. What I did was tape some poster board against the rear of the car, trace the body shape with a marker, then raise the poster board two inches, and then recontour the outside edges to blend in. Took a few tries before I got the shape where I wanted it.
Once I was happy with the look and shape, I placed the poster board on 3/4" particle board. I used a jig saw to cut the shape, then sanded and sanded and sanded some more until the edges were smooth (no ripples). I clamped a piece of .080 6061 T-6 aluminum sheet to the jig and used a router with a flush cutting bit attached. Makes a zillion hot little aluminum shavings. After removing the now cut-to-shape spoiler from the jig, I used a metal file to clean up the edges of the aluminum, followed by 150 grit sandpaper on a block to make the edges nice and smooth. I had a machinist mill the slots. They are 3/8" by 1.5" long. I used some 5/16-18 x 1" SSTL hex drive button head screws in the adjustment slots and 1/4-20 SSTL hex drive button head screws in the middle. NOTE: The two middle screws are fixed and because of the restricted area they go in, I drilled the holes in the fiberglass undersize and use the threads of the screw to cut into the fiberglass. Hope this helps:) |
All times are GMT -7. The time now is 07:33 AM. |
Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.0
Copyright ©2000 - 2025, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Friendly URLs by vBSEO 3.6.0
The representations expressed are the representations and opinions of the clubcobra.com forum members and do not necessarily reflect the opinions and viewpoints of the site owners, moderators, Shelby American, any other replica manufacturer, Ford Motor Company. This website has been planned and developed by clubcobra.com and its forum members and should not be construed as being endorsed by Ford Motor Company, or Shelby American or any other manufacturer unless expressly noted by that entity. "Cobra" and the Cobra logo are registered trademarks for Ford Motor Co., Inc. clubcobra.com forum members agree not to post any copyrighted material unless the copyrighted material is owned by you. Although we do not and cannot review the messages posted and are not responsible for the content of any of these messages, we reserve the right to delete any message for any reason whatsoever. You remain solely responsible for the content of your messages, and you agree to indemnify and hold us harmless with respect to any claim based upon transmission of your message(s). Thank you for visiting clubcobra.com. For full policy documentation refer to the following link: