Why do I have high fuel pressure...

[steve meltzer]

still getting this %&&*$%@%& error: on three different computers, two different browers. i give up with the photos. rotten teeth. s

[patrickt]

Well, this is a tough one because I don't know what your pilot bearing or flywheel look like. But, if I were to guess, which is what I will do, I would say that the pilot bearing sticking out a bit from the crank is alright. Just so long as there is no undue pressure being put on the crank from, say, something like the transmission input shaft bottoming out, which results in the thrust bearing getting destroyed, I think a little pilot bearing sticking out and not touching anything is ok -- I wouldn't worry about it. Now, about your flywheel and starter alignment; clearly the starter is not now, nor has it ever, aligned up properly with the flywheel. Also, my AC Delco OEM rebuilt starter, and the aluminum Centerforce flywheel, and the Lakewood bellhousing and block plate, all align up with my OEM iron block without even trying. That said, here is a nice article that ERA supplies on aligning a Tilton with a Lakewood on an iron FE block. Setting up a Tilton Starter Now, remember, I've never had to do that, so I'm of limited help.

[steve meltzer]

wonder if the preset dowel pins are off? sorry no photos. s

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by steve meltzer

wonder if the preset dowel pins are off? sorry no photos. s

You could do a quick check of the alignment of the bell housing -- maybe it was never aligned properly at all.

[steve meltzer]

that's on my mind, once i get the new ring gear in place. s

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by steve meltzer

that's on my mind, once i get the new ring gear in place. s

Well, how are we doing on this? I'm anxious to get to the carburetor...

[steve meltzer]

Tranny is back from a reseal, flywheel resurfaced this AM, starter nose rebuilt, but I'm headed to Monterey and will start to rebuild upon my return. thanx s

[steve meltzer]

OK, had the flywheel resurfaced and it's in place @ 85 ft-lbs. Two questions:

1) is there a measurement(s) that I can take to insure that the starter and flywheel share the optimum geometry? NOT talking about centering the bell housing (that comes later)

B) Is there any reason why I can't start the car with the flywheel bolted up as is? No clutch bolted up (which shouldn't matter, either way). No tranny, nor driveshaft either. connect battery and (with safety glasses) start her up?? It would be like a dyno, right? Just tryin' to think this through. Great chance to look for engine oil leaks as well.

thanx. steve

ADD: When I get to the bell housing, can I use the dowels, or should I go to the trouble of centering with a dial indicator.??

[olddog]

The engine is sitting on two mounts. I would assume you had to set something under the back of the engine to support it, when you removed the transmission and bell housing. If you start the engine, you have to make sure that whatever is holding the back end of the engine, doesn't flip out from the movement. Without the transmission and mounts attached, I expect things will be free to move more than normal.

Go to the trouble of centering with a dial indicator. If it is spot on, your done. If not, good thing you checked.

[steve meltzer]

The car is on a 4 post lift, but other than the engine mounts, there is no other support. I have both tall and regular jack stands and could add some support to the middle. thanx. s

[patrickt]

We used to start cars with no transmission in them. I don't see a problem with that. The two motor mounts and, usually, a bottle jack under the back of the engine was all we ever used. Of course, be extremely careful when you start peeking at the moving parts. Regarding starter motor measurements, the only thing I have is the Ford Shop Manuals that show correct, and incorrect, teeth markings between the starter motor and the flywheel. Unfortunately (or, fortunately, depending on how you look at it), I have never had a starter motor alignment issue on any car, ever. Datsuns to Fords, they've always just lined right up and I never had a problem. Now, when it comes to aligning your bellhousing, I think you have to treat it as though it is completely unknown. Install it as if it were a permanent, and then put your dial gauge on it and see what the run out is. Usually, when it's done properly once, you don't have to screw with it again. But in your case, you have to double check everything with a jaundice eye as to how it was originally set up. (medical joke there, get it?)

[steve meltzer]

thanx for the info. So, before I start checking the alignment of the bell housing, i should run a set of liver function tests? thanx steve

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by steve meltzer

So, before I start checking the alignment of the bell housing, i should run a set of liver function tests?

... yep, with onions too please.

[steve meltzer]

hmmm. won't fight you for that. where were you when my mother tried to force feed us that high cholesterol poison? s

[patrickt]

Alright, you've got a nice long weekend coming up, I think you should take tomorrow off and stretch it out to a four-day weekend. That way you should be able to get the car back together, cranking properly, starting properly, and maybe even running properly. And that means not leaving broken teeth in the bell housing or having gas vapors pluming out on to your hot primaries .

[steve meltzer]

I'm really ready, but I'm trying to make sure the starter teeth are engaging the flywheel properly, then we'll stab the tranny. thanx for the support and encouragement. s

[Gaz64]

Steve,

You should leave the heavy lead off at the starter, (insulate the lug for safety), so you can engage the pinion with the flywheel to check pinion to ring gear engagement in both planes.

With only the small solenoid wire fitted, the ignition switch can be held in the crank position to ensure the pinion is correct.

Wrong depth in either plane is the cause for ring gear or pinion damage.

Gary

[steve meltzer]

Thanx Gary, but I have a Powermaster starter and there's only one lead, the big one that comes from the VR via the battery. So how do I that? thanx s

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by steve meltzer

Thanx Gary, but I have a Powermaster starter and there's only one lead, the big one that comes from the VR via the battery. So how do I that? thanx s

Alright, now I've never done this, so take that in to consideration. But a current limiting device would allow the gear to come out, mesh against the flywheel, but the starter would not have enough current to turn. There are two such devices: 1) a resistor (a big ass resistor, and you don't have one); or 2) a thinner wire. Now, remember, that thinner wire is going to heat up, fast, so you might try just engaging the starter motor with a 12 or 14 gauge wire, for just a second, and see if the gear pops out and tries to turn the flywheel. That would let you see what's going on with the meshing, but a 12 gauge wire is not going to carry the amperage needed to crank your engine.

[steve meltzer]

OK, I did just that experiment this weekend despite the flood! put paint on the pinion gear and dc'd the ignition wire to the coil. Here' s picture if the website will cooperate. The guy at Powermaster said it was ok, but to add a shim between the block and the starter. With a fully charged battery connected to the car's battery leads, the car cranked weakly, but not enough to start. Felt like a weak battery, so I used another tested and proven battery iwth same result. Won't crank enough to start. Took the starter off to go back to the guy who put the new pinion gear on and he thought the paint marks were way off and wanted to look at the starter in more detail, but now, he's swamped (pardon the pun) with flood cars from Harvey. not sure the pictures will show. thanx s