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01-03-2011, 07:44 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Mar 2004
Cobra Make, Engine:
Posts: 12
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Are these kind of battery terminals good?
Anybody used these?
They look like they would be clean and easy.
Or, do you all think the crimp type connectors are ultimately better?
I'm thinking the crimp type with a good tool (then solder them after the crimp) and use a good thick piece of heat shrink tube over the seam is the most reliable over time.
However, I saw these and they caught my eye as being neat and clean. But, reliability is the #1 thing for me.
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01-03-2011, 08:32 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: San Antonio Valley Ca,
ca
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Interesting ends. Never seen that type before. Where did you find them? I've always had my local battery supply make up whatever I need.
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01-03-2011, 08:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by redmt
Interesting ends. Never seen that type before. Where did you find them? I've always had my local battery supply make up whatever I need.
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Both Jeg's and Summit carry them. I asked this same question on a couple of other forums too. One guy said they are problematic but didn't say why. Another guy said he used them on a Camaro and liked them a lot.
I don't have enough info on them to make me try them over the tried-and-true way of doing it yet.
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01-03-2011, 08:53 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bartlett,
Ill
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison LS1
Posts: 2,448
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that type cable end is mainly for industrial type use for repairs in the field---they work good, carry a lot of amperage, etc---they are a little bulky in the heavier guage sizes as compared to the swaged type oem auto cables
but of course they suffer the same as other types---poor install equals poor results
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01-03-2011, 08:56 AM
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Join Date: Aug 2010
Location: San Antonio Valley Ca,
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jerry Clayton
but of course they suffer the same as other types---poor install equals poor results
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I always liked the saying "Garbage in. Garbage out"
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01-03-2011, 08:59 AM
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Join Date: Feb 2007
Location: Colorado Springs,
CO
Cobra Make, Engine: Backdraft, supercharged Coyote
Posts: 2,445
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They are quick and easy, no special tools needed. In 3-4 years, you can easily take them apart for cleaning. Good product.
__________________
.boB "Iron Man"
NASA Rocky Mountain TTU #42
www.RacingtheExocet.com
BDR #1642 - Supercharged Coyote, 6 speed Auto
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01-03-2011, 04:39 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2007
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF GT40
Posts: 237
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I've used them for battery terminals. Have never had a problem as long as 20 years use.
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01-04-2011, 04:15 AM
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Join Date: May 2008
Location: San Jose CA,
CA
Cobra Make, Engine: SPF_R_/BRG/FRBoss302/327CI/FordEFI/Under_Car_Exh/
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you can also still hit them with a blowtorch and solder if you get bored.
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Steve SPF 2734 MK3 / Brock Coupe #54- panavia.com
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01-04-2011, 07:36 AM
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Thanks guys.
I think I'll opt to use regular crimp-on connectors and then solder them after crimping. And of course, use that fancy sealer type of heat shrink tubing too.
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01-04-2011, 08:33 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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Crimp, solder and heat shrink? Whoa, to much hassle. I'd use the new product and be done with it.
One problem I've noticed over the years with a "sealed connection" is that it's impossible to see what's going on inside, underneath that seal. Corrosion can and will still occur if conditions are right, but the connection may look perfect on the outside. In that regard this bolt on product looks superior to me. Check and clean when required beats head scratching and wondering "what if" in my book.
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01-04-2011, 08:52 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bartlett,
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Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison LS1
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Oh Come on Ernie---solder hasn't ever created any source for corrosion or stiffened up the connection to where vibration breaks the cable one strand at a time!!!!!
I use either connections like these or the hammer swedge type and/or welding cable type stuff
To me solder is for pipes under the sink in the bath room
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01-04-2011, 09:01 AM
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Senior Club Cobra Member
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I got a call, some years ago, from a friend with a Cobra (FFR) that wouldn't start, he was stranded at the gas station. Dead battery he thought, as did I. Jumper cables hooked up and we still had nothing. Connections looked good and tight, clean. Eventualy, after much head scratching, we cut the insulation back on a factory type battery cable. Nothing but "green" inside! I was surprised how far back under the insulation the corrosion extended. Re-did the cable connect, started right up.
Copper is like that, you can cover it, insulate it, seal it, heck it might still start the corrosion process!
Last edited by Excaliber; 01-04-2011 at 11:21 AM..
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01-04-2011, 10:58 AM
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Join Date: May 2000
Location: Northern VA,
VA
Cobra Make, Engine: Classic Roadsters
Posts: 2,765
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I have seen similar situation where everything looked ok except underneath.
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__________________
LIFE IS TOO SHORT TO WORRY ABOUT GOOD GAS MILEAGE
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Utinam logica falsa tuam philosophiam totam suffodiant!
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01-05-2011, 07:48 AM
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For long term reliability of my cable connections, I will use an AGM battery. I don't think corrosion would be a concern anyway with the adhesive type of heat shrink tubing but it definitely won't be using an AGM battery.
I'm putting a good bit of money into this cable and long-term reliability is my main goal. So, crimp, solder and adhesive type of heat shrink is what I want to do.
Thanks for all of the feedback though. It is a good discussion. I didn't know about these locking fittings but I think even though they may be good, they are a little bulky versus the crimp type since they are copper cast.
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01-05-2011, 08:09 AM
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CC Member
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Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Bartlett,
Ill
Cobra Make, Engine: Everett-Morrison LS1
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the areas of most shortcomings are in the grounds to the engine and frame anyway---no matter what battery you use
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