all aluminum engine???

[Voyager]

Just reached 300 miles on my new KC 408 street crate engine.

Part of the instructions that came with it states; “on all aluminum engines it is necessary to re-torque the intake & cylinder heads after 300 miles & to re-check valve lash“.

Stupid question…I assume my cast iron block makes my engine not an “all aluminum engine” and therefore the above is not required?

Thanx

Bob

[madmaxx]

Call KC, but what does it take to retorque intake manifoled, 3/8" socket, extension and torque wrench, plus 4 minutes labor, so 10 minutes? Cylinder heads remove valve covers and use same torque wrench, 20 minutes. If you have a hydraulic roller engine no lash adjustment ever, that the beaty of hydraulic lifters!!!

[blykins]

Go over all the fasteners....

After a few heat cycles, some fasteners will loosen up. Doesn't hurt to go over them all...oil pan, front cover, intake, etc, etc.

[Rickd]

ANY new motor .. aluminum or steel .. you are going to need to check your cylinder head bolts and exhaust manifold bolts after a couple thousand miles. Bolts will vibrate loose and simply need to be tightened. NOT OVER TIGHT.

[patrickt]

FWIW, on my iron block/aluminum head FE, my builder's instructions were to NOT torque the heads, torque the intake manifold one time only (after a few hundred miles) and only torque the oil pan, etc. if, and only if, I saw oil leakage around it.

[tin-man]

Originally Posted by Rickd

ANY new motor .. aluminum or steel .. you are going to need to check your cylinder head bolts and exhaust manifold bolts after a couple thousand miles. Bolts will vibrate loose and simply need to be tightened. NOT OVER TIGHT.

Rickd, is there a spec for how tight these bolts should be? While I do not have my Cobra yet I will soon and am just curious as to what the torque wrench setting should be. tin-man

[Rwillia4]

Voy- you need to retorque the heads, exhaust and intake. My KC 427 was loose when I retorqued it. Then (many miles later) for some reason unknown it coughed the headgasket out between two cylinders. Which I had to pay KC to fix (then found out about the 2-years warranty ???) ...I still love the motor and the service I received.
Here is a good reference: http://www.boxwrench.net/specs/ford_302_351W.htm

[PANAVIA]

3x what blykins said

[Voyager]

Thanks for the feedback.

Have gone over many of the fasteners. The header and collector bolts were slightly loose.

My KC paperwork shows torque the head bolts to 95 ft/lbs.

What torque should the intake bolts be?

Valves are hydraulic.

Bob

[Keithc8]

The intake bolt you can torque as follows, if it is a 5/16 torque it 20 ft/lbs and if it is 3/8 torque it 40 ft/lbs. Most all of the small block stuff is 5/16 and the FE is 3/8. All bolts are torqued when the engine are built but due to the expantion and then relaxing of some of the parts when they cool it is ot a bad ideal to retourqe some of the bolts. This goes for other bolts on your engine and complete car. The aluminum parts are a little worse because they expand more than the steel or cast iron.
We check our race car stuff after each race. There are certain bolts on the car and engine that we check after each race. A lot of this also has a lot to do with how you use your car and engine.


Thanks, Keith Craft

[Mark328GTS]

I will be doing a build in the future and at this point I have decided to go with the KC 408 street crate engine Black Knight package. Everything that I have read about KC and his builds has been outstanding. I would like to know if your happy with the preformance that your getting out of the 408 and if you would make any changes? Should also note that my build will be an RCR GT40 if it will make a difference. Thanks

[Voyager]

Mark,

Buy it.

I am thrilled with the KC 408 street crate motor. I’m probably not the right guy to ask, as I’ve only put about 500 easy miles on it so far.

It walks a fine line between being an absolute beast, yet still street-able. The pull is endless and the sound is incredible. I’ll give myself another 500 miles of seat time before I start to really smash the loud pedal.

BTW – the new ones come with some of the Black Knight pieces (air cleaner & valve covers). I can send you a picture if you want.

Bob

[Voyager]

Keith,

Thanks for the torque settings. I am going over everything until I learn what needs constant attention and what doesn’t. Surprisingly, most of the tweaking so far is chassis related. You all did good.

Bob

[Mark328GTS]

Thanks Bob,

I am still about 2 years away from beginning my build, but this time I am doing my homework first so I don't make another car mistake.

[Voyager]

2 years

I'll be on my 5th set of tires by then

[knickick]

Originally Posted by Voyager

Just reached 300 miles on my new KC 408 street crate engines.

Part of the instructions that came with it states; “on all aluminum engines it is necessary to re-torque the intake & cylinder heads after 300 miles & to re-check valve lash“.

Stupid question…I assume my cast iron block makes my rebuilt engines not an “all aluminum engine” and therefore the above is not required?

Thanx

Bob

How is your engine now? Is it working well? I hope it is.

[Voyager]

knickick,

Engine is working well. Still have several ankle biters causing me grief. Biggest issue is the intermittent over heating. My coolant temps are all over the map. I’m going to swap out the thermostat and install a bypass hose. Still seeping fuel from the AN fittings by the carb and still leaking oil from the AN fittings by the oil filter remote adapter on the block. Finding time to fix is the trick.

Bob

[patrickt]

Originally Posted by Voyager

knickick,

Engine is working well. Still have several ankle biters causing me grief. Biggest issue is the intermittent over heating. My coolant temps are all over the map. I’m going to swap out the thermostat and install a bypass hose. Still seeping fuel from the AN fittings by the carb and still leaking oil from the AN fittings by the oil filter remote adapter on the block. Finding time to fix is the trick.

Bob

I would expedite the leaking gas repair....

[playtimeover]

Originally Posted by Voyager

Just reached 300 miles on my new KC 408 street crate engine.

Part of the instructions that came with it states; “on all aluminum engines it is necessary to re-torque the intake & cylinder heads after 300 miles & to re-check valve lash“.

Stupid question…I assume my cast iron block makes my engine not an “all aluminum engine” and therefore the above is not required?

Thanx

Bob

I am not familiar with KC but my friend knows almost of the cars. I will ask him if what is the answer on your question. Nothing can explain for now.

[209]

Keith gets my business if this engine doesn't make it. It's already been rebuilt once. 209