Small Coolant Leak

[CoupedUp]

Keith,
I have a small coolant leak at the front passenger side where the head meets the block. The engine has about 6k miles on it and is otherwise running fine. The oil looks good - no coolant. I'm thinking maybe re-torquing the head bolts. What specs and pattern do you typically use to do this? Also, what do you think about the "AlumaSeal" powder that you add to the coolant to stop leaks?

Thanks,
Doug

[CHANMADD]

No alumaseal! Retorque first, starting in the middle and working out,you should be able to find the correct sequence on line!
Here's a link,
http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...000/770769.pdf

[CoupedUp]

Thanks CHANMADD! Looks easier than I thought!
Doug

[rokndad]

How about a very small pinhole leak that's within the fin part of the fluidyne radiator that pretty much closes up when hot, and under pressure after shutoff, leaks about a 50 cent piece spot on the garage floor.

Also have some evidence of small drips blowing back onto valve cover and horn areas. Usually just wipe it off, but I'm wondering is there any product that can be added to our all aluminum systems that will stop almost insignificant leaks like this.

[Rick Parker]

There are some "Tablets" about 1/2" thick and 1" diameter that are used and sold at GM dealerships. They are made of some sort of compressed powder like material. The techs use them all the time when they have the "Top end or intake manifold off" It is used to seal potential small leaks and prevent customers from experiencing and having to return for a very small leak. They seem to work pretty well. They may be available elsewhere. They are packaged 2 tablets on a bubble packed card. Pop one or two in the cooling sytem.

HERE!!!

http://cgi.ebay.com/Bars-Leaks-Heavy...QQcmdZViewItem

[Rwillia4]

Are you sure it is not the upper coolant mount. This is a typical leak area and is on the front passanger side. Use RTV sealant to seal it if this is the leak area.

[RICK LAKE]

Coupeup Doug before you start all this repair, do 2 things, FIRST call KCR and ask about retorque the head gaskets.Some don't get retorque. I run an all Aluminium motor and have not done this once. No sealers added to the coolant system either. If you have a leak there is a reason for it. The head gasket could be the failure and will just keep leaken until you over heat the motor or coolant gets into the motor and you have a chocolate shake in the motor and need all new bearings. They sell a dye for the coolant to find the leak, where it is dripping MAY NOT be where the coolant is leakin out of. The dye and black light are about $50.00 and the kit helps find any leak you want. Oil, Coolant, Transmission, even AC systems. What motor are you running? All Aluminium? Aluminium heads and iron block? All iron? The first 2 have expansion issues, the second choice is the worst of the 2. Two different metals rubbed the head gaskets faster than the others. Let KCR guide you through this repair, If there is a problem down the road, you can go back to them for answers. The other guys have good ideas to fix it and you don't want to lay the car up but, you LOOSE that motor then it cost how much??? and get a bill for $3,000.00 for rebuild. You are not going to be happy. IMO I would pull the top of the motor and replace BOTH head gaskets, check and clean the top of the motor and reassembly. Note I use Hi-Tac spray on all my motors. I know the gasket manufactures don't like it being used. I ran my motor racing for 8 years and no leaks other than the rear main seal. ( it's marking for the she cobras) If KCR said to retorque than follow his suggestions. Note time and who you talked too for this, just in case this doesn't work. Retorque is old school with steel head gaskets, most gaskets now are multi composite layered and don't need this operation done. Maybe a check after the first breakin, but at 6,000 miles, no. IMO Rick L. Ps I wouldn't hurt to check the studs or bolts, but either way KCR still gets a call.

[Ibr8k4vetts]

The Tablets sold at GM dealerships work very well and are in all new GM motors

[jwd]

Originally Posted by Ibr8k4vetts

The Tablets sold at GM dealerships work very well and are in all new GM motors

Most manufacturers use some sort of sealer added to the cooling system when the car is built. It really cuts down on minor warranty issues.

[rokndad]

Rick and Ibr8k,

Thanks for the leads. I didn't know what the "state of the art" was for this kind of thing. I recall BAR's leak from the 60's. Was in a small metal brown and yellow can with a brownish syrupy liquid with brown pellets in it. I'll go the Chebby dealer and see what they have. Great stuff!!

[CHANMADD]

I agree with Rick that you most likely will have to take the heads off,but it won't hurt to try and re-torque the head bolts first and contact Keith Craft.
I personally have never liked using any kind of sealing additive in my motors,but each to his own. It is imo, either "right" or broken.
That said I have seen sealants work when the directions are faithfully followed, I just don't like them for my own use. $10,000 odd on a motor and then use a $2.00 pill?? It just does not sound right to me.

[CoupedUp]

Originally Posted by RICK LAKE

Coupeup Doug before you start all this repair, do 2 things, FIRST call KCR and ask about retorque the head gaskets.Some don't get retorque. I run an all Aluminium motor and have not done this once. No sealers added to the coolant system either. If you have a leak there is a reason for it. The head gasket could be the failure and will just keep leaken until you over heat the motor or coolant gets into the motor and you have a chocolate shake in the motor and need all new bearings. They sell a dye for the coolant to find the leak, where it is dripping MAY NOT be where the coolant is leakin out of. The dye and black light are about $50.00 and the kit helps find any leak you want. Oil, Coolant, Transmission, even AC systems. What motor are you running? All Aluminium? Aluminium heads and iron block? All iron? The first 2 have expansion issues, the second choice is the worst of the 2. Two different metals rubbed the head gaskets faster than the others. Let KCR guide you through this repair, If there is a problem down the road, you can go back to them for answers. The other guys have good ideas to fix it and you don't want to lay the car up but, you LOOSE that motor then it cost how much??? and get a bill for $3,000.00 for rebuild. You are not going to be happy. IMO I would pull the top of the motor and replace BOTH head gaskets, check and clean the top of the motor and reassembly. Note I use Hi-Tac spray on all my motors. I know the gasket manufactures don't like it being used. I ran my motor racing for 8 years and no leaks other than the rear main seal. ( it's marking for the she cobras) If KCR said to retorque than follow his suggestions. Note time and who you talked too for this, just in case this doesn't work. Retorque is old school with steel head gaskets, most gaskets now are multi composite layered and don't need this operation done. Maybe a check after the first breakin, but at 6,000 miles, no. IMO Rick L. Ps I wouldn't hurt to check the studs or bolts, but either way KCR still gets a call.

Wise advice Rick. I'm going to see what Keith says about retorquing. Sounds like an obvious first step and not too difficult to do.

Thanks!
Doug