KM427SC Brushed Build

Avmaviator · #1 (**permalink**) 03-29-2011, 11:07 AM

The check is in the mail for our Kirkham!

Super excited about it. Here are the details of the car. I put the (incld) part as some people have been wondering what is included or not these days. I'll also put some pictures of my tour from last week.

427 KMS/SC
Brushed Aluminum Body
No carpet set. No dash leather. Dent seats
Frame: Steel, powder coat
Oil cooler kit (incl)
bearing assy, Cluth Throw out
shocks, Penske w/Hyperco springs, NON-adjustable (inlcd)
Driveshaft (incld)
Stainless head shields (incld)
sending unit, fuel (incld)
EFI Fuel return and tank modification to accept return fuel line
Tank, coolant billet, FE mounts to intake manifold
tires, Goodyear eagle large letter
billet aluminum adjustable seat tracks
Four-point harness, round "modern" quick release

Billet car

Beautiful copper one

blykins · #2 (**permalink**) 03-29-2011, 11:36 AM

Very nice.

ERA Chas · #3 (**permalink**) 03-29-2011, 11:47 AM

Excellent choices, bucks wisely spent and best luck. Looks beautiful glowing in brushed ally.
Two tips:
Get the sub straps for the harness and use them.
Hide the red horns...

marco454v8 · #4 (**permalink**) 03-29-2011, 01:43 PM

I agree with Chas re. sub straps- otherwise the harness sits too high on you!

Mark

RodKnock · #5 (**permalink**) 03-29-2011, 03:03 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Excellent choices, bucks wisely spent and best luck. Looks beautiful glowing in brushed ally.
Two tips:
Get the sub straps for the harness and use them.
Hide the red horns...

A nice choice. I like no stripes.

Typical Chas.

But seriously, what's up with the red horns? Does the Copper car have them too?

BTW, it may or may not matter to you, but it did for me. Originally my Kirkham roller had the straight shifter (like a 289) as well. Since I wanted my car to look reasonably authentic, I/we had to fabricate a new tranny tunnel to accomodate the shifter moving back to the original location so that I could run the dogleg-forward type shifter like the original 427's.

I also went for the wood steering wheel, but I'm sure many folks prefer the black wheel for driving around town, autocrossing or racing.

Everything boils down to personal preference. Best of luck.

mreid · #6 (**permalink**) 03-29-2011, 03:22 PM

That's great, congratulations! Seeing yours is making me very anxious!

Avmaviator · #7 (**permalink**) 03-29-2011, 04:49 PM

Thanks everybody! I'm sooo excited about this whole thing

Rodknock, I actually don't like the angled shifter

Going with the straight one.

It will have wood steering wheel, the horns.. I don't know how I am going to hide them. Spray paint? hah.

Sub Straps, is that a brand or type of belts? I want the 4 point with the round quick release attachment, not a fan of the old school metal latching system (although neat looking)

Now I have to focus on the engine. I am currently talking to Keith Craft, Barry at Survival, and Brent about the engine package... not an easy decision at all. Looking for all aluminum (Pond block), with 450-500 hp (not too much), EFI with stacks. Should be nice.

ERA Chas · #8 (**permalink**) 03-29-2011, 05:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Avmaviator

Sub Straps, is that a brand or type of belts? I want the 4 point with the round quick release attachment, not a fan of the old school metal latching system (although neat looking)

Now I have to focus on the engine. I am currently talking to Keith Craft, Barry at Survival, and Brent about the engine package... not an easy decision at all. Looking for all aluminum (Pond block), with 450-500 hp (not too much), EFI with stacks. Should be nice.

No, 'sub-strap' means a 5-point harness complete-not just the 4 straps. The cam-loc latch is fine but you need one that accepts 5 belts. Just tell David you want a 5-point installed and he'll know. Much safer and as stated, prevents the uppers and lap from riding up when you snug them.
Now just a bit more opinion that you didn't ask for:
The three builders you're dealing with are excellent-take your pick. However a Pond block and EFI ($$$ by itself) are very expensive for just 500HP. All three can build 150 MORE horsepower with just those parts even without race-quality internals. Just saying it's not a good value unless you want large displacement and then the modest power is a poor result. All three can build an iron block 445 that makes 500HP (on 5 cylinders probably) for a fraction of the price of the parts you're contemplating.
It's your money-do as you like. Just thought you might not be aware of cost vs output. The 'romance' of those parts might cost you needlessly.
Your choices for the chassis and running gear were very well considered and spent by contrast.

RodKnock · #9 (**permalink**) 03-29-2011, 10:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ERA Chas

Now just a bit more opinion that you didn't ask for:

The three builders you're dealing with are excellent-take your pick. However a Pond block and EFI ($$$ by itself) are very expensive for just 500HP. All three can build 150 MORE horsepower with just those parts even without race-quality internals. Just saying it's not a good value unless you want large displacement and then the modest power is a poor result. All three can build an iron block 445 that makes 500HP (on 5 cylinders probably) for a fraction of the price of the parts you're contemplating.
It's your money-do as you like. Just thought you might not be aware of cost vs output. The 'romance' of those parts might cost you needlessly.
Your choices for the chassis and running gear were very well considered and spent by contrast.

Chas is right. For the exact same money, 600-650 HP would be reasonably easy. If all you want is 450-500 HP, then you could save thousands by buying used iron block.

BMK · #10 (**permalink**) 03-30-2011, 01:49 PM

Can you buy a brushed body and frame only. The cost? The Custom Duty and import would be expensive on a full unit.

Avmaviator · #11 (**permalink**) 03-30-2011, 02:23 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMK

Can you buy a brushed body and frame only. The cost? The Custom Duty and import would be expensive on a full unit.

Well, the body and frame are riveted together for one thing. You mean to order the car without suspension, interior, running gear etc..?

vector1 · #12 (**permalink**) 03-30-2011, 03:34 PM

if i had something like that it would be in my living room!

Dimis · #13 (**permalink**) 03-30-2011, 04:33 PM

Bernie - PM Sent

ERA Chas · #14 (**permalink**) 03-30-2011, 04:54 PM

Avm-you have a PM.

BMK · #15 (**permalink**) 03-31-2011, 04:35 AM

Dimis

Thanks for the PM.

BMK · #16 (**permalink**) 03-31-2011, 04:40 AM

Avmaviator

Thanks for the response.

Yes, I see now the frame is a spider frame and the body is attached and everything hung from this light frame.

What is the cost of the brushed body and frame on the basic chassis as you mention (less suspension a Chassis body only)

Maybe one of the KM people will chime in here??

Avmaviator · #17 (**permalink**) 03-31-2011, 08:08 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by BMK

Avmaviator

Thanks for the response.

Yes, I see now the frame is a spider frame and the body is attached and everything hung from this light frame.

What is the cost of the brushed body and frame on the basic chassis as you mention (less suspension a Chassis body only)

Maybe one of the KM people will chime in here??

I don't know the cost for that as they sell everything together, a roller basically. I can tell you the brushed finish is a 8000 upgrade but it is something you can do yourself at home, just need a few hundred hours of sanding

The bodies come from the factory "filled", meaning the aluminum panels are welded together. So you have to knock down the weld with a rasp/file, then you sand the body to give it that brushed finish.
If you want to polish it, it is another 300 hrs of work, yikes.
Maybe Dave will chime in on this one, or you can always email them.

mreid · #18 (**permalink**) 03-31-2011, 09:40 AM

Arnaud, the filed body comes with the weld seems knocked down and smoothed somewhat. If you are going to then paint it, you need to go go over it with a few passes of sandpaper and ensure it is to your liking before priming and painting.

LoyWarr · #19 (**permalink**) 03-31-2011, 10:47 AM

The unit arrives from Poland in a welded condition. Meaning it is a collection of aluminum panals welded together and riveted to the frame/chassis. They offered one of these in their scratch and dent sale a few weeks back for $20,000. It seems to me they showed a picture of this in that post.

From this state, they in Provo, file down the welds and pick and mold the entire body with special metal working tools until it is the exact shape it needs to be. They call this the "filed" state and it is what they sell as the standard finish. According to many posts by them this is the best state to apply paint.

They are wonderful to deal with. If you are truly serious, give them a call, or email them. They will tell you all the plusses and minuses of doing the work yourself.

marco454v8 · #20 (**permalink**) 03-31-2011, 12:30 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by LoyWarr

The unit arrives from Poland in a welded condition. Meaning it is a collection of aluminum panals welded together and riveted to the frame/chassis. They offered one of these in their scratch and dent sale a few weeks back for $20,000. It seems to me they showed a picture of this in that post.

From this state, they in Provo, file down the welds and pick and mold the entire body with special metal working tools until it is the exact shape it needs to be. They call this the "filed" state and it is what they sell as the standard finish. According to many posts by them this is the best state to apply paint.

They are wonderful to deal with. If you are truly serious, give them a call, or email them. They will tell you all the plusses and minuses of doing the work yourself.

That's interesting. When I spoke to the kirkhams recently, they said I could pick up the body directly from Poland for 25k, but I didn't realise that the weld finishing was done in Provo. Not sure if I fancy rectifying the body!

Mark