Fuel line question from a non-Kirkham....

KevinW · #1 (**permalink**) 09-17-2011, 02:34 AM

I am using a Carter mechanical fuel pump on my 428. Its a little cramped near there with the remote oil take-off nearby, so I want to think about the fuel line routing before i drop the engine in.

Like the Kirkham, I have a twin rail chassis like this:
Crendon Replicas : Gallery Page 3

I am unsure about how to route the fuel hose from the end of the footwell to the mechanical fuel pump. I am a little reluctant to penetrate one of the twin round tube chassis rails with screws for P-clips. (In the UK rain will get in and compromise the nice powder coating).

I am wondering how this routing is achieved on the Kirkham?
any words or pics would be appreciated.

Kevin

mreid · #2 (**permalink**) 09-17-2011, 06:37 AM

My Kirkham uses a -6 AN braided line from the pump on the right side, crosses over to the left rail, and then continues on the outside of the rail to the left side of the engine. Clips are pop riveted to the fame to hold it in place. If you are worried about the rain, put a dab of silicone sealer over the hole before inserting the rivet or installing the screw.

mickmate · #3 (**permalink**) 09-17-2011, 07:07 AM

Hi Kevin I anguished over the same thing as tube frames rust from the inside out. You need to drill holes for fuel and brake lines to secure them. The 427 utilizes the same holes for two fuel lines and the brake line to keep them all to a minimum. They also use the frame extension holes to thread them through. On the other side it has a battery cable also requiring holes and clips. Mreid's suggestion is a good one. I'd also consider some used engine oil or there are various rust treatments available you could put in the holes to treat the inside.

KevinW · #4 (**permalink**) 09-19-2011, 11:57 AM

thanks guys,
kevin

Ronbo · #5 (**permalink**) 09-27-2011, 12:28 PM

If you don't want to drill holes another option is wraplock. You'll want to put some electrical tape or rubber stripping down first to prevent any chaffing.

Nice thing about wraplock is it can be removed and reused unlike the stainless cable ties.

Any electrical supply or radio equipment (towers) dealer should have this stuff.

Avmaviator · #6 (**permalink**) 11-01-2011, 07:29 AM

Do you guys know what type of fuel lines thr Kirkhams use? I bought some 6an fittings but they are a bit too large where the hose goes in. The hoess on the car have this thing inner plastic tube on the inside, wrapped by the braided steel casing. The inner plastic section is much thinner then rubber inner section of the other hoses I bought (auto-flex type).

Thanks!

mickmate · #7 (**permalink**) 11-02-2011, 09:19 PM

Looks like Italian metric hose, maybe 10 mm??

mickmate · #8 (**permalink**) 11-02-2011, 09:22 PM

This is one of the products I was thinking of Internal Frame Coating w/Spray Nozzle

Avmaviator · #9 (**permalink**) 11-02-2011, 10:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mickmate

Looks like Italian metric hose, maybe 10 mm??

Yeah that is weird stuff... And too thin for me (running EFI with 45psi). I actuslly pulled all these lines out today and replacing them with the regular AN-6 lines.

RestoCreations · #10 (**permalink**) 11-03-2011, 10:32 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Avmaviator

Do you guys know what type of fuel lines thr Kirkhams use? I bought some 6an fittings but they are a bit too large where the hose goes in. The hoess on the car have this thing inner plastic tube on the inside, wrapped by the braided steel casing. The inner plastic section is much thinner then rubber inner section of the other hoses I bought (auto-flex type).

Thanks!

Summit sent me some of that by accident instead of the -8an braided stainless steel line with the rubber liner. The other product looked like nylon and was much more rigid. I sent it back and the refunded the money without issues. Apparently Aeromotive screwed up and labeled the box wrong. The hose said -8an on the outside, but it was more like -6an. so perhaps your -6an is more like -4an