Stripe Polishing

[Power Surge]

David, I saw your pics in the tsunami thread, but didn't want to hijack it again.

I noticed that you polished the whole stripe section on the car, and then masked it off. What happens next? Does the brushed finish get done around the masking and then to the rest of the car?

I have the polished stripe option on 357, but it doesn't look anywhere near what you guys do nowadays. I would love to have my stripes done with the finish like the tsunami car, instead of just looking like a different shade of brushed.

Can you tell me what I need to do when my car arrives to finish off my stripes like that? I think I can mask off the brushed part around them with some metal tape. I just need to know what I have to do to produce the mirror finish. Finer sanding? Cutting compound on a wheel? What's the process?

Thanks!!

[David Kirkham]

Sal,

The majority of the process is detailed here on our web page that we are setting up.

sanding and polishing page

We polish the entire area and then we reverse mask off the areas to be striped. We then re-brush in the areas to the masking tape. Remove the tape and

This is what you are left with.

Polished stripes

David

[Power Surge]

David, thanks for the link, it explains a lot!

Just out of curiocity, what would it cost if I wanted to have you guys change my grain polished stripes to the full polish?

[Brent Mills]

Wise decision to pay someone else! This sort of work is a pain in the arse! Polished my stripes about 8 months ago and took me 50-60hrs. Dirty and tedius work. That said, the payoff is nice.

[Power Surge]

Brent, did you do it from scratch, or did you already have partial stripes? My car has the stripe option, but it's the grainy version. If it takes 50-60 hrs to get the mirror polish from that point, I don't think I want to attempt that one.

[Brent Mills]

Mine weren't shiny, but if you have sanding lines running the length of them, we're not that far off from each other. It takes some learning to get it right. You'll think you're pretty well done with the sanding and then you'll find a couple sanding lines that you didn't find and you have to go back through the grits again in that area.

I don't want to discourage you because it's kinda fun in a twisted sorta way, but its also a lot of work. The end result is something you can be proud of, and it's always a conversation piece. It's a good winter project. As well, I *think* I could cut my time in half the next time around. What's the magic to cutting the time? Experience. I probably could have cut the time initially if I had someone there showing me exactly how to do things, but the written instructions give you great general procedures, but it seems to me that it's in the little details that make things work or well, or just sorta work ok.

Hope that helps, and keep in mind, the time flies when your doing this stuff.

[LwCwb]

Brent, your next winter project is getting the rest of the car to look like the stripes, right? Your car looks great, good job!

[Brent Mills]

Actually, yes it is. In the process. Just returned from the garage where for a little gratification I polished up a small area. Looooooonggggg way to go. I have about half the car to 220 with most of the big sanding/file marks out, but thats nowhere near half the job done. I estimate about <5% of the way now.

[LwCwb]

I cant wait to see pictures, its gonna look very nice! You will be able to blind the competition while speeding past them!

[Brent Mills]

It'll be a while before there's anything worth looking at. As for blinding people...I'll be handing out sunglasses and sunblock to those I care about.

[xlr8or]

Brent,
I just started working on the 220 grit. Was thinking of going to 400 after that just in case I decide to polish the whole thing. What are you using for the door jambs?

[Cobra Pack]

I am sanding my leafspring 289fia from the filed finish to a brushed finsih. 3M makes really nice foam sanding pads that are sold by the box by auto supply companies. The pads work really good in the door jams - they cushion again finger marks/grooves. They come in three grades which approximate 150, 300 and 420 and can be used for wet or dry sanding. They work great in the jams, by the hoodscoop on my car (since it is welded on) and the curved edge around the cockpit. Once you get past 420, you could probably use staight paper since the amount of material you will be removing will be minimal at that point so you won't have to worry as much about finger marks etc.

I find that sanding is a great mindless activity after a long stressful week at work

Mike

[xlr8or]

I found some sanding pads at harbor frieght that are about 220 grit that work well. Only $2.50 for a pack of 10. (good thing they are cheap as they don't last too long)
The problem is the corners are kinda stiff so the don't work that well in the jambs.
I'll look for the 3M pads and try that.

[David Kirkham]

Sal,

We can polish your stripes if you want. If you are interested, drop me a line or give me a ring and we can talk about it. Better hurry, though, as your transport will arrive soon.

It is a lot of work. Some guys love it...some send their car back to have it done and eat the transportation costs and figure it is still a bargin! It's up to you--we are happy to help.

We use the Scotch-Brite pads as a sanding pad. We find the DA sander really, really helps, but it makes a TERRIBLE mess.

I imagine we will know all of the Kirkham do-it-yourselfers at the next show--they are the ones who will be looking like the Tin Man from the Wizard of Oz.

Brent,

Those pictures look GREAT! You all are giving me an idea.

David

[xlr8or]

David,
Speaking of "next show", are you going to do an open house this year?

[David Kirkham]

Scott,

The Summit, (open house), will be on Saturday 5 Feb 05.

Kirkham Summit Thread

David