New Billet Radiator Surge Tank from Kirkham - Page 3

twobjshelbys · #41 (**permalink**) 06-20-2009, 09:06 AM

I ordered it and it came yesterday. It took about two hours to install, including running to the hardware store for clamps. I'd already gotten the necessary hoses but was two clamps short after the ones that came off couldn't be reused.

It seems to work pretty well. The erratic water temperature swings are gone but it doesn't seem to warm up as much as it did before but I haven't taken it on a really long drive.

A retired friend of mine that works on restoring brass lanterns and old cash registers can polish it up but he couldn't do it yesterday. R&R for polishing will be one of the winter projects.

I'd like to see the milling machine that makes these kinds of parts.

Thanks David!

Tom Kirkham · #42 (**permalink**) 06-20-2009, 11:44 AM

twobjshelbys

You need to keep an eye on your surge tank to radiator air bleed hose. The fitting we provided with the tank is a JIC-4. This should be changed to a barb fitting or the hose may blow off. The other choice would be to change the hose to a JIC-4 and change the corresponding fitting on the radiator.

How do you like your Hella horns?

HI Cobra · #43 (**permalink**) 06-20-2009, 01:00 PM

Tom,

Any chance I could return my 351 billet surge tank and elbow in exchange
for one for a 427 side oiler? My 351 sits too high in the Classic Roadster
to give me hood clearance. I have an original type surge tank on the 427
(Kirkham #142). I figure if I have the billet one on hand then when that thing
develops a leak I can swap it out, or just do it now.

twobjshelbys · #44 (**permalink**) 06-20-2009, 01:46 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Tom Kirkham

twobjshelbys

You need to keep an eye on your surge tank to radiator air bleed hose. The fitting we provided with the tank is a JIC-4. This should be changed to a barb fitting or the hose may blow off. The other choice would be to change the hose to a JIC-4 and change the corresponding fitting on the radiator.

How do you like your Hella horns?

Yes, I saw that but the places didn't have the connectors so I jury rigged this to get it going. Do these hoses come in standard lengths? Any chance you could make me one up?

FWB · #45 (**permalink**) 06-20-2009, 02:58 PM

you guys can do what you want but from a machining stand point if i was spending 500 bucks for one of those i would at least want one without the endmill trails going around the top. if i machined something like that for a customer, and it had those marks on it i would probably get it returned as a non-conforming part. just my observation from afar.

Jamo · #46 (**permalink**) 06-23-2009, 09:09 PM

Tom...I've had the Hellas for about 4 years. Muy goodo, asspecially compared to the stock ones that sound like David Hedison screaming "Help me!" in the original "The Fly."

twobjshelbys · #47 (**permalink**) 06-24-2009, 09:10 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twobjshelbys

I ordered it and it came yesterday. It took about two hours to install, including running to the hardware store for clamps. I'd already gotten the necessary hoses but was two clamps short after the ones that came off couldn't be reused.

It seems to work pretty well. The erratic water temperature swings are gone but it doesn't seem to warm up as much as it did before but I haven't taken it on a really long drive.

A retired friend of mine that works on restoring brass lanterns and old cash registers can polish it up but he couldn't do it yesterday. R&R for polishing will be one of the winter projects.

I'd like to see the milling machine that makes these kinds of parts.

Thanks David!

Well, the observation that the erratic temp swings were fixed was premature.. It's still happening.

rphubbard · #48 (**permalink**) 06-24-2009, 10:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by twobjshelbys

Well, the observation that the erratic temp swings were fixed was premature.. It's still happening.

Are you running an electric temp gauge? If so I would look at your ground wires. I had the same issue with my 71 Chevy truck, the temp gauge would bounce around and was not stable at idle. I found it to be a bad ground, the temp was a steady 180 the whole time.

ng8264723 · #49 (**permalink**) 07-04-2009, 07:07 AM

Tom or David,
I need a surge tank for my FE. Do I still get the discount? Should I call with a CC number or pay with paypal?
Chris

HI Cobra · #50 (**permalink**) 07-07-2009, 09:34 AM

Tom or David,

Did you receive the box I sent with the 351 billet surge tank and the 90 degree
elbow?

I just need the FE surge tank with the driver's side outlet, no 90 degree elbow.
I am hoping you can ship it to my Texas address so I can get it before I leave on the 14th. If I owe you any $ just let me know. Thanks.

franklin · #51 (**permalink**) 07-07-2009, 12:14 PM

I have one of these tanks and it has worked very well. Worth the extra cost. I had mine anodized. Here is a picture.

Todd

David Kirkham · #52 (**permalink**) 07-09-2009, 11:30 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by ng8264723

Tom or David,
I need a surge tank for my FE. Do I still get the discount? Should I call with a CC number or pay with paypal?
Chris

Give us a ring. We'll get one out for you!

David

David Kirkham · #53 (**permalink**) 07-09-2009, 11:33 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by HI Cobra

Tom or David,

Did you receive the box I sent with the 351 billet surge tank and the 90 degree
elbow?

I just need the FE surge tank with the driver's side outlet, no 90 degree elbow.
I am hoping you can ship it to my Texas address so I can get it before I leave on the 14th. If I owe you any $ just let me know. Thanks.

Flip,

Your tank came out of the machine last night. They just finished assembling it this morning. We will ship today!

David

David Kirkham · #54 (**permalink**) 07-10-2009, 06:08 PM

We have had some requests to see the inside of the tank. Here you can see the stiffening ribs we machined full length into the bottom of the tank to support the thin wall from all those shaking ponies. Here you can see the o-ring snakes around the inside of all the bolts. It is not possible for a bolt to leak as they don't touch the water.

David Kirkham · #55 (**permalink**) 07-10-2009, 06:10 PM

This is a picture of the underside of the top of the tank.

David Kirkham · #56 (**permalink**) 07-10-2009, 06:13 PM

We machined a slot in the top of the stiffening rib to allow the water to flow across and not get trapped. The stiffening rib also makes the top so it will never bulge (like the original tanks).

David Kirkham · #57 (**permalink**) 07-10-2009, 06:15 PM

Pic of the top and the bottom of the tank halves. We make these for big blocks and small blocks. We also make them with either right or left outlet.

David Kirkham · #58 (**permalink**) 07-10-2009, 06:16 PM

This is the baffle plate (just like the original) that we put in the tank. We machined a little recess into the bolt bosses to hold the plate in place.

twobjshelbys · #59 (**permalink**) 07-10-2009, 09:19 PM

David, thanks for the inside view! I wondered what it looked like but didn't want to take it apart to see!

Now that the water pump is actually pumping water, it is running great and tank stays full right up to the baffle. As long as there is fluid above the outlet there won't be another air lock.

David Kirkham · #60 (**permalink**) 07-11-2009, 11:30 AM

Hey, we can't take all of the credit...I got the idea when I was changing the water pump on a Honda and saw they used an o-ring instead of a gasket.

David