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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #1 (permalink)  
Old 12-10-2006, 08:37 AM
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Default Bare Aluminum Care - follow up

I was talking to my brother, who is an engineer in the auto industry, about the different Cobra replicas and the bare aluminum Kirkham's came up in conversation. He had an interesting statement and concern about the bare aluminum. He said that while it does not rust, it does corrode if left in bare form.

I told him the steps I had read about to take care of the car. However, he said that's fine, but how often would someone have to sand it or scotch brite the finish due to oxidation alone, even if it never saw rain and just sat in the garage.

And he shared this website with me:

http://www.teskoenterprises.com/aluminum.html

Which says the following about bare aluminum:

Advantages of using aluminum
Aluminum is a very lightweight metal, about one-third the weight of steel. It is very strong and exhibits a very high strength to weight ratio. It is a very durable metal, yet easy to work with and offers a no-paint maintenance ability.
It can be easily fabricated, formed, welded, riveted or bolted.
It does not rust. It is easy to work with and it produces a highly reflective, attractive, finish.
Aluminum is resistant to corrosion and attack by most chemicals. The dark gray oxide that forms on the outer surface of aluminum, unlike rust in iron, protects the basic metal. In iron, the basic metal will rust continuously.
If aluminum is subjected to a commercial process, anodizing, it forms aluminum oxide, one of the hardest man-made substances, through an electro-chemical process that thickens the coat of the aluminum, often from .5 mils to 6 mils. This increases the durability, and often, the visual appeal of the aluminum.
Most aluminum used in visible parts or applications is lacquered or coated, anodized or painted. Any parts that receive the most abrasion from traffic should be anodized. Anodizing's superior abrasion resistance will allow it to outlast paint on a door stile, kick-plate or push/pull bar, many typical applications. If the fabricated piece is to be used in a high use area, lacquering is not a good option, since it will be rubbed off.


Disadvantages of using aluminum
While it does not rust, aluminum will oxidize. This oxidation appears as white residue and pitting. Aluminum must be either powder coated or anodized to prevent oxidation. Mill finished aluminum surfaces will oxidize over a long period of time.
Aluminum can be water-stained easily. If the protective finish, or the bright finish as it is delivered from the mill is to be retained, proper storage of the material is a requirement. Aluminum can corrode quickly if suitable precautions against electrolysis are not taken and maintained.
Welding of aluminum requires specialized equipment and training compared to standard welding of steel.



Metal care tips for aluminum
Like stainless steel, aluminum is relatively resistant to corrosion. But it is very susceptible to attack by strong acids and alkalis used in some cleaning products. Also, it is very susceptible to galvanic corrosion - if aluminum and another type of metal are in contact with a liquid food that contains an electrolyte (e.g. salt), an electric current may form resulting in dissolution of the more active metal, which will probably be the aluminum.

Cleaning
Use a mild detergent and warm water when possible. Alkalis, even baking soda, and especially stronger alkalis discolor aluminum. If trying a stronger cleaner, pre-test on a hidden place to be sure it cleans satisfactorily and does not damage the aluminum. Always follow directions on the product label for aluminum, EXACTLY.
On outdoor architectural surfaces, remove bugs, sap, tree seeds, and other materials as soon as possible, as they harden with exposure to sunlight and heat, and become more difficult to remove. Suitable solvents will remove tar and similar substances. Test the solvent first if the aluminum is painted to be sure it doesn't also remove the paint. Make sure you follow the product label precautions when using solvents. Ensure that no spark or flame is in the area and make sure you have adequate ventilation.


What not to do
Avoid using abrasive cleaners (scouring powders, steel wool, abrasive polishes, etc.) since they can permanently scratch aluminum. Painted or anodized aluminum surfaces will be permanently damaged. Do not clean aluminum when it is too hot to touch, or if ambient temperature drops below 50° F.
Aluminum is so susceptible to corrosion from alkalis that aluminum panels should be protected from splashed mortar and cement.



So my question is, do you have any issues with bare aluminum oxidation like this? Or is it not an issue with the bare aluminum finish. If not, why not? Thanks!
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Old 12-10-2006, 10:20 AM
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I have had my bare Kirkham 266 for about 3 years now and after I clean it up(about every 3 months) with mild soap and water or windex and then spray with a thin coat of WD 40 it looks new. I have never seen any corrosion,pitting or discoloration. Easy to care for actually,but I like the race look and do not shoot for a perfect finish. I find myself constantly fretting over road rash and scratches on the GT40 however.
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Old 12-10-2006, 10:31 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsimoes
...how often would someone have to sand it or scotch brite the finish due to oxidation alone, even if it never saw rain and just sat in the garage.
I can answer that with experience

.....no problems at all.
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Old 12-10-2006, 10:47 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ENTDOC
. . . I find myself constantly fretting over road rash and scratches on the GT40 however.
Yep, I hear you, I am so tired of "suffering" for each chip I have gotten with my cars. . . paintless is sounding better and better, as long as the car to keep it beatiful is a not 24/7 job. . .
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Old 12-10-2006, 10:55 AM
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A full-polish job ( a la milk truck) is high maintenance.

Satin, or sanded finish, is a breeze.
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Old 12-22-2006, 05:23 PM
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Could've sworn this was talked about in at least two threads within the past several months already on All Cobra Talk...but here we go again.

Same questions as before...

Same answers as before...

Going on the fourth year...others even longer...and there is no corrosion whatsoever. Tom Jr's own personal BNL looks just fine with a little cleaning. Anybody that's been to Provo and seen it certainly has had the opportunity to find out directly.

A family member's conjecture is simply that. JMHFO of course.
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Old 12-22-2006, 06:11 PM
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Jamo, the questions are similar, but NOT the same, I'm not that thick. Thanks for the answer.
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Old 12-22-2006, 07:44 PM
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Smile

Why not just paint it like all the real ones were?
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Old 12-23-2006, 06:55 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cobra101
Why not just paint it like all the real ones were?
Ask David, he'll tell you.
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Old 12-23-2006, 09:10 AM
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Default bare aluminum

why who in there right mind would go heads up with a terminater looking ride like mine at agreen light. bad ass bare all the way and no chips
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Old 12-23-2006, 09:25 AM
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Damn straight, wiz.
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Old 12-29-2006, 08:56 PM
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Paint it, drive it and forget it. Paint chips are like scars: they add character and chicks dig them.
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I'm no expert.
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