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Kirkham Motorsports

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  #41 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2007, 08:09 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsimoes
I was told that I needed both. . .
you were told correctly.
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  #42 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2007, 08:14 AM
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And - by the way - a PCV valve essentially closes during hi vacuum periods, preventing hi vacuum in the crankcase. This is why you connect to the manifold directly....if you put a breather in the system, you are putting a comparatively large quantity of unmetered air directly into the intake system, with resultant screwy results - unsteady idle, weird metering, rough/rich/lean running, etc.

What you need is the right PCV valve. You might have to do some research on this but the info is out there.
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  #43 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2007, 08:16 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsimoes
So why are my breathers still throwing up oil onto the valve covers?
Do you have baffles under the breathers, inside the covers? If not, that is the source of your trouble. Baffles are simple sheet-metal obstructions to the oil being thrown up to the breather by the valve train.
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  #44 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2007, 08:18 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsimoes
So why are my breathers still throwing up oil onto the valve covers?
There should be baffles on the underside of your valve covers which cover the hole where the breather goes into and prevent oil from splashing up and into the breathers. If you do not have the baffles, you will have oil splashed directly into the breather and it will leak out and make a mess. Pull a valve cover and see if you are missing the baffles.
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  #45 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2007, 08:29 AM
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The valve covers don't have baffles, but the breather does. . .
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  #46 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2007, 08:41 AM
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The baffle in the breather may not be sufficient. I would try a set of baffled valve covers and see if that makes a difference.
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  #47 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2007, 09:12 AM
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definitly need baffles on valve covers, however some aftermarket heads and manifolds have oil return holes that are restrictive and let too much oil accumulate under the valve cover, it will eventually leak and spit out the breather whether you have breathers or not.
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  #48 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2007, 09:57 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rsimoes
The valve covers don't have baffles, but the breather does. . .
Yeah I went through this as well.. I changed valve covers to a nice set with some really well thought out baffles inside and no mor oil leakage...
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  #49 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2007, 09:58 AM
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Originally Posted by rsimoes
I was told that I needed both. . .

Not to highjack the original thread, but there's a good explanation of PCV systems at wikipedia.org. History section was particularly informative.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pcv_valve

Enjoy,
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  #50 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2007, 11:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onefastmustang
Yeah I went through this as well.. I changed valve covers to a nice set with some really well thought out baffles inside and no mor oil leakage...
Also went through this. Many, if not most, of the original chrome style 427 valve covers don't have baffles. I switched to a "Cobra Lemans" style finned ones with baffles from Tony Branda. Using the same breathers on both, one spit, the other did not.
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  #51 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2007, 12:25 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by 289FIA
Originally Posted by rsimoes
I was told that I needed both. . .

Not to highjack the original thread, but there's a good explanation of PCV systems at wikipedia.org. History section was particularly informative.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pcv_valve

Enjoy,
289FIA
Thanks 289FIA,
Pretty good link. As I read it it started to sound earily familiar! LOL

Steve
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  #52 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2007, 01:30 PM
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My opinion...

1. You don't need no stinkin pcv.

2. You do need breathers.

3. You assolutely need baffles/splash plates in the valve covers under the holes where the breathers go.

482 Shelby/big cam motor...I have K&N breathers on each valve cover (with splash plates under the holes), and I have the screen mesh/tube to the original-style oil separator/"puke tank" on the firewall, which then has a "road draft tube" to dump all the crap into the air so it smudges the he!! out of the front of any Prius morons behind me.

Works muy goodo right up to 7,000 or so, at which point I start having anal leakage anyway.
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Last edited by Jamo; 07-19-2007 at 01:34 PM..
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  #53 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2007, 01:54 PM
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"Works muy goodo right up to 7,000 or so, at which point I start having anal leakage anyway."
I've never heard it put that way. Good one.
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  #54 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2007, 02:18 PM
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Rsimoes, please send your potential buyers my way!

HRJ
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  #55 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2007, 03:53 PM
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http://www.filtercouncil.org/techdata/tsbs/94-2R1.pdf

Alright this is a simple and good read. It shows the 2 types of PCV setups. The open and closed. Newer cars use the closed systems where the oil breather is not vented to the open. THERE IS NO BREATHER. The air is directed to the intake manifold. The fox body stang used this system. It never had a breather. Look at a set of Fox body valve covers. It provides the best pollution control and a nice clean crankcase. If you take a fox stang 302 apart at 150,000 it has a sparkle to the crankcase. Part of this is due to modern detergent oils the other part (larger) is due to the PCV. With a supercharged system the closed system becomes problematic since you can charge the crankcase with boost and make a serious mess. I know this from twin turbocharging. The oil dipstick can fly out under boost. It's quite messy. The soln is to add a breather and take away the closed element. In other words don't feed back through the intake. The problem is this is not as effective for cleaning the crackcase. With the turbo's people experience the same problem you have. Baffles do help but turbo owners add another can. Run a line from the breather to a vented tank. The valve cover in not vented but the tank is. The tank collects the oil and is periodically drained. The problem is solved. Lastly, if you only drive the once in a while then you will probably never have crancase build up anyway. You will have leaking gaskets though.

Last edited by ng8264723; 07-19-2007 at 03:58 PM..
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  #56 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2007, 05:33 PM
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got one of those on the back of the intake to the base of the carb. . . plus two breathers on valve covers and they still spit oil. . .another project. ..

No, you want the pvc valve on the valve cover in place of one of the breathers. Then hose it to the base of carburator and then leave the breather on the other valve cover, I have no clue why one is on the back of the intake it has to be something else. Total cost $5 us dollars unless you buy some handcleaner and then $5.99
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  #57 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2007, 05:38 PM
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Geez, I don't know, some knuckleheads in Provo hooked mine up four freeking years ago. I just presumed they knew what the he!! they were doing.
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  #58 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2007, 07:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jamo
My opinion...

1. You don't need no stinkin pcv.

2. You do need breathers.

3. You assolutely need baffles/splash plates in the valve covers under the holes where the breathers go.

482 Shelby/big cam motor...I have K&N breathers on each valve cover (with splash plates under the holes), and I have the screen mesh/tube to the original-style oil separator/"puke tank" on the firewall, which then has a "road draft tube" to dump all the crap into the air so it smudges the he!! out of the front of any Prius morons behind me.

Works muy goodo right up to 7,000 or so, at which point I start having anal leakage anyway.
Works muy goodo right AT to 7,000...Not so "muy goodo" in stop and go traffic. IMHO
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  #59 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2007, 07:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ibr8k4vetts
Works muy goodo right AT to 7,000...Not so "muy goodo" in stop and go traffic. IMHO
Hehehe...and just what would your humble opinion be based on?

I've driven this thing in Fresno heat in stop and go every doggone summer since 2003...when the temps are way past 100 degrees (not something you'll see alot of in SB I suspect) with a big cam (.680 lift). Runs exceptionally cool (185-195), never hesitates, never stumbles. About a dozen folks watched it idle at Ontario two SAACs ago in 100+ temps for about 45 minutes while I charged a dead battery...never got past 190 degrees and held idle at 800 rpm the whole time. It starts easy, idles easy, doesn't blow oil out of the breathers, the carb never loads up, etc.

So again giggleass, since you have an opinion about how my car runs, what is it based on?
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Last edited by Jamo; 07-19-2007 at 07:48 PM..
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  #60 (permalink)  
Old 07-19-2007, 08:01 PM
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My idle is arpund 1200 when I first stop, then it drops to 1000, barely ever sees anything below it.

Jamo, so should I pull off the PCV and add another breather? I want to keep my chrome valve covers with no baffles, unless someone makes a version with baffles. . .
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