Fuel Gauge Calibration

kobrabytes · #1 (**permalink**) 04-11-2009, 08:21 PM

I finally got my fuel sending unit installed in the tank today. I pulled up the calibration menu on the gauge and set it to the zero setting. With about 3 gallons of gas in the tank it showed 1/4 tank. With 5 more gallons it showed 1/2. I have a 30 gallon tank.

Question

Is it more accurate to calibrate it with a full tank?

Does it help to adjust the "pot" on the sending unit?

DO they operate linear at all?

Or

Are they just approximations no matter how they are set up?

Cheers,

len

mpanten · #2 (**permalink**) 04-11-2009, 08:45 PM

Im not an expert but when I did mine, I have a fuel cell, they told me that the tank needed to be empty.

mickmate · #3 (**permalink**) 04-11-2009, 08:57 PM

If you have the inductive tube just calibrate empty out of the tank, dip it in a can for the full and set that on the guage then reinstall.

Ronbo · #4 (**permalink**) 04-11-2009, 09:06 PM

You have to calibrate empty and full conditions. Instructions are here:

http://thomaskirkham.com/instructions.html

kobrabytes · #5 (**permalink**) 04-11-2009, 09:40 PM

Thanks Ronbo,

I did the empty, I just need to do the full.

THanks!

len

sshurts · #6 (**permalink**) 04-12-2009, 12:19 PM

Hi Len, Ronbo,

I'm just getting around to having the bung installed for the sending unit.

A quick question, did you install the sending unit on the driver or passenger side top -- or does it matter?

thanks
Scott

Ronbo · #7 (**permalink**) 04-12-2009, 05:02 PM

Scott, you may have to call them about that. I can't see much beyond the bottom of the tank on mine without pulling some panels.

Guess it goes without saying, if that's a weld-in bung and your tank has had gas in it...

kobrabytes · #8 (**permalink**) 04-12-2009, 08:02 PM

HI Scott,

It's on the drivers side. If you pull the left rear wheel you should be able to look up on the top of the tank and see the bung, if one exists. THe wiring harness was in place, just wrapped back to the tail light.

It wasn't a bad job. Disconnect the fuel and return lines, cap them off. Disconnect the over flow line, loosen the filer tube. Six bolts and maneuver it out. I have an extra set of hands. We also held it on a floor jack until we were ready to drop it out.

len

sshurts · #9 (**permalink**) 04-13-2009, 07:56 AM

Thanks Guys,

Mine is an early Kmp so I have to run the wiring myself, no big deal, and the bung needs to get added (which I'm having done now.)

Not to worry Ronbo, the fellow that is welding in the bung will take the tank to a radiator shop for a quick dip to ensure all the gas/vapor are gone before any welding...

Scott

Jamo · #10 (**permalink**) 04-14-2009, 01:22 AM

I fill up at the hundred mile points on the OD...my ass is usually sore by then. You are welcome.

kobrabytes · #11 (**permalink**) 04-14-2009, 08:56 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Jamo

I fill up at the hundred mile points on the OD...my ass is usually sore by then. You are welcome.

You can only sit an hour before your ass gets sore?

RodKnock · #12 (**permalink**) 04-14-2009, 10:27 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by kobrabytes

DO they operate linear at all?

Cheers,

len

I just calibrated my fuel gauge recently. I've driven about 130 miles on the current tank and my fuel gauge still reads full. The fuel sending unit provided by Kirkham is really a super piece, very nicely made; however, because of the angle of the unit inside the fuel tank, the gauge will not operate in a linear fashion.

sshurts · #13 (**permalink**) 04-14-2009, 05:20 PM

Ron,

thanks as always for reminding us of the KISS principle.

Of course, that would mean that I have to calibrate my odometer too...

u going to the roundup?

Scott

Ronbo · #14 (**permalink**) 04-14-2009, 08:18 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RodKnock

I just calibrated my fuel gauge recently. I've driven about 130 miles on the current tank and my fuel gauge still reads full. The fuel sending unit provided by Kirkham is really a super piece, very nicely made; however, because of the angle of the unit inside the fuel tank, the gauge will not operate in a linear fashion.

There are a few factors that can make the sender non-linear, the sending unit itself, odd shaped tank, and of course position. If it leans heavily in one state a bridge resistor circuit can level it out somewhat.

If the sender had a float arm (sounds like thats not the case here), you could also use "S" bends on the arm.

Of course there's always the tried and true "graduated broomstick" method.

big-boss · #15 (**permalink**) 04-15-2009, 08:23 AM

I have the guage but it is sort of crazy. Stays on MT for miles. So- What JAMO said is the answere. Everytime I touch the speedo calibration button for trip reset of what ever- something silly happens- so I don't touch it. I simply drive fast enough so that I do not want to screw around with stuff. All is well.

RodKnock · #16 (**permalink**) 04-15-2009, 10:11 AM

I had issues with getting it from a dark background to "regular" background in order to actually see the display. It's fine now, but I'm afraid to touch for fear of messing with the settings.